Is this possible, 4 channel amp for car speakers and sub?

[runningcap]

I'm a complete noob when it comes to car audio and needs a little assistance with selecting an amp that will work with what I'm planning. I have a 2019 Toyota Tacoma with a factory JBL system and it absolutely *****!! I took the chance of just upgrading the speakers to start, and while it did make a difference, it was clear I needed to make other changes.

Currently installed:
Front door woofer and dash tweeter - Infinity Kappa 90csx component, 2.5 Ohms, 135 RMS
Rear Door - Infinity Reference REF-6532 2 way, 4 Ohms, 55rms
I've also installed 80mil Kilmat and 150 mil Noico sound insulation in all doors and the back wall.

Purchased but not installed:
Head unit - Pioneer DMH-Wt7600NEX...with all adapters.

1. built-in amplifier (14 watts RMS CTA-2006/50 peak x 4 channels) could this power be utilized at all?

Sub: Have not purchased yet but would like to use the factory 8" enclosure, please make any recommendations. Just looking for something to compliment the other upgrades.
Kicker CompRT 43CWRT81 - dual 1-ohm voice coils, 100-300 RMS
Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-8 - dual 2-ohm voice coils, 50-150 RMS
Kenwood Excelon KFC-XW800F - 4-ohm, 50-150 RMS

Amp I am considering (please make any other recommendations):
Pioneer GM-DX874 - 100 RMS x 4

1. 100 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms (150 watts RMS x 4 at 2 ohms)
2. 125 watts RMS x 4 at 1 ohm
3. 300 watts RMS x 2 bridged at 4 ohms (250 watts RMS x 2 bridged at 2 ohms)

I would like to maximize the power to the front Kappa speakers but concerned about the power to the rears since there is an 80 watt RMS difference between the two. Can run a 4 channel amp with 1 channel to each of the front speakers, run 1 of the rear channels in parallel to the rear door speakers (would this split the power from 100 to 50 RMS?), and use the last channel for a sub? If I'm completely off base on this setup, what would you recommend? Really appreciate the insight

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[YourNameHere 10+ year member]

your prolly gonna need a DSP to set crossovers/EQ T/A ect. ect., if you dont have a clue what your doing i suggest doing a ton of research before buying anything.....also your old JBL system is gonna sound 10X better until you learn how to properly tune a system.........goodluck lol. A long expensive, frustrating path lies ahead for you.....im not trying to be a dick im just telling it how it is

 

[Firewalker]

1st that radio is not going to cut it. You will need a amplifier just for the speakers you put in. Now most people use the rears on the head unit and amplify the fronts.

If you still want to amplify the rears then you need to go to a 4 channel with a mono-block for the subwoofer or a 5 channel amplifier to run the whole thing.

And yep depending on the head unit as JR said you might be better off just buying a DSP and using that stock head unit and then putting the money from the head unit into a DSP and other stuff like the amplifier, wiring kit and so on.

Also I don't think anyone is going to recommend using the stock subwoofer box but a custom box in the exact place would sound a lot better.

 

[DFW40 10+ year member]

I'm a complete noob when it comes to car audio and needs a little assistance with selecting an amp that will work with what I'm planning. I have a 2019 Toyota Tacoma with a factory JBL system and it absolutely *****!! I took the chance of just upgrading the speakers to start, and while it did make a difference, it was clear I needed to make other changes.

Currently installed:
Front door woofer and dash tweeter - Infinity Kappa 90csx component, 2.5 Ohms, 135 RMS
Rear Door - Infinity Reference REF-6532 2 way, 4 Ohms, 55rms
I've also installed 80mil Kilmat and 150 mil Noico sound insulation in all doors and the back wall.

Purchased but not installed:
Head unit - Pioneer DMH-Wt7600NEX...with all adapters.

1. built-in amplifier (14 watts RMS CTA-2006/50 peak x 4 channels) could this power be utilized at all?

Sub: Have not purchased yet but would like to use the factory 8" enclosure, please make any recommendations. Just looking for something to compliment the other upgrades.
Kicker CompRT 43CWRT81 - dual 1-ohm voice coils, 100-300 RMS
Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-8 - dual 2-ohm voice coils, 50-150 RMS
Kenwood Excelon KFC-XW800F - 4-ohm, 50-150 RMS

Amp I am considering (please make any other recommendations):
Pioneer GM-DX874 - 100 RMS x 4

1. 100 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms (150 watts RMS x 4 at 2 ohms)
2. 125 watts RMS x 4 at 1 ohm
3. 300 watts RMS x 2 bridged at 4 ohms (250 watts RMS x 2 bridged at 2 ohms)

I would like to maximize the power to the front Kappa speakers but concerned about the power to the rears since there is an 80 watt RMS difference between the two. Can run a 4 channel amp with 1 channel to each of the front speakers, run 1 of the rear channels in parallel to the rear door speakers (would this split the power from 100 to 50 RMS?), and use the last channel for a sub? If I'm completely off base on this setup, what would you recommend? Really appreciate the insight

You can keep it relatively simple and get a 5 channel amp. Amp all door speakers and 5th channel for the sub. Purchase or make a sub box do not mess with factory box..I know it’s tempting. Do not worry about time alignment or EQ for a while.

 

[Nba2khead]

Your headunit is fine. Ignore whoever said that, if you spunt the money and cant get a refund, thats fine, just get a 5 channel amp and put the headunit in network mode. Dump those rears speakers. Unless your doing differential rear-fill, forget about using rears. You can get something simple like the pioneer dx975, and put your mids and highs all on a channel, use your headunits crossovers, and your good. Get the most out of what you have.

 

[Firewalker]

Yes he has an aftermarket head unit but not installed right now hence why we said DSP. Lots of people do that as these new car makers have tons of stuff built into the head unit and won't work correctly without it. A DSP would cure that also a 5 channel amp unless it is more of the expensive kind won't do much power on the subwoofer channel, most are around 300-600 watts and many don't run at 1ohm. Hence why we said 4 channel amplifier and monoblock if he wanted to keep his rear fill, many people do.

 

[Nba2khead]

Yes he has an aftermarket head unit but not installed right now hence why we said DSP. Lots of people do that as these new car makers have tons of stuff built into the head unit and won't work correctly without it. A DSP would cure that also a 5 channel amp unless it is more of the expensive kind won't do much power on the subwoofer channel, most are around 300-600 watts and many don't run at 1ohm. Hence why we said 4 channel amplifier and monoblock if he wanted to keep his rear fill, many people do.

No i get what you meant, but everyones not ready for a dsp, nor needs one. I would just telling him to get the most out of what he has. Maybe he got it from a store and cant get a refund? So if thats the case, hes stuck with it lol. Might as well get the most out of it..

 

[MikeFPV]

I would go a step up and get the 5ch Pioneer . Hard to find one on stock right now though . Some old school stuff would allow you to run 2 front channels stereo and the rear in mono . My Orions will do that . Some old 2ch amps will allow you to use the left and right channels and still get full output on a woofer from using one wire from the right and one from the left . This could make tuning difficult . Lots of options but with limited knowledge your best getting a 5ch or a second amp .