Interesting find with Sound Deadening...

[phenryiv1 10+ year member]

So this past weekend I was removing some old wiring from my brother's Jeep, which I used to own. While I was in there, we installed new speakers in his doors (more info here--- http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=202338).

Anyway, back in 2001 I installed some sound deadening in the doors and front floorboards of the Jeep. It was a DISASTER. I used the Basic B-Quiet, after guys on the Jeep forums (hey, it was 2001) recommended it over Dynomat for cost and value.

Anyway, it was installed in moderate temps, was applied with a roller, and was heat-gunned in place. I did the outer door skin, the inner side of the inner door skin, and the "middle" side of the inner door skin, as well as the floor. The floor was fine, but the door skins- particularly the outer skin and "middle" skin all were a mess. The deadener had slid down and formed a puddle on the bottom of the door, and the adhesive was all over the bottom of the door and the inner and outer surfaces of the windows. It made such a mess that it took hours to clean up, just to clean off the windows and to get the drains at the bottom of the doors cleared out.

Fast forward to this past weekend when we did new door speakers. Not only was most of the deadening still there (particularly the inner door skin), it was SOLIDLY attached to the metal surfaces. The doors were still deadened, and it looks like after that initial fialure, the adhesive held tight and did its job.

I kind of wanted to share that long-term performance report, since I was sure it would ALL be in a puddle in the door all over again.

So here is the real question: I am about to deaden my new car- is there any way to get the doors to to the point where the stuff sticks and STAYS, rather then to do what happened with the Jeep?

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[prochobo 10+ year member]

Get some Secondskin.

 

[kicker06 10+ year member]

100sq ft of Damplifier.

$220 shipped.

Best stuff around.

 

[phenryiv1 10+ year member]

I was more looking for any hints on why there was an initial adhesive failure, but now the stuff is on there solid- almost like it has permanantly bonded w/ the doorskin.

Is there a way to speed this "bonding" process?

 

[luvinthebass 5,000+ posts]

use super glue if the tack behind the deaden is not sticky enough or get teh spray sound deadener stuff.

 

[ramos 5,000+ posts]

Clean the area you are applying it thoroughly , then wipe it down again with alcohol or grease and wax remover right before you start applying the deadening . I usually wear gloves to while I'm doing it . Roll it on , use a heat gun or hair dryer if you feel the need //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[phenryiv1 10+ year member]

^^^^^^^^

I will definately be cleaning it thouroughly prior rto application.

Do you think that "cycling" it a few times, through heat, letting it cool, heat, cool, heat, etc. would speed the bonding?

 

[ramos 5,000+ posts]

Don't see how . Clean surface , and good solid contact ( roller) with the clean surface, and an occasional blast with a heat gun when it's colder is all I have ever needed //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

second skin, hush mat, mad mat, dynamat raamat are all good. edead v3 liquid is the only other thing i would use that isnt made by the companies listed and its a liuid and not a mat.

 

[zachzchw 5,000+ posts]

Maybe try some spray adhesive.

 

[luvinthebass 5,000+ posts]

i remember applyin dynamat to my trunk lid onetime and i had gotten a major cut on my hand from the pieces i cut, since then i've always wore gloves when applying sound deadening/damping material.