installation help plz

[xSPLoder 10+ year member]

Walmart.com: Scosche 3 Foot 3.5mm Plug To RCA Cable - Audio Only: Auto Electronics

there is what you need and im sure you have a local walmart. there are cheaper ones at the store too so dont just buy the first one you see

 

[quackhead 10+ year member]

Car - 01 Pontiac Bonneville SEAmp - Lansar 2000w 900rms

Sub - 10" Audiobahn aw1006t

HU - Alpine

I was hoping someone can help me out here. Ive installed 3 sub systems before so this stuff isnt completely new to me but it has been about 4 years since i installed a system. Anyways i installed a new HU in my car (requires a special harness which includes door chimes) and im trying to get my sub to work. Amp lights up Power light is on but the sub wont hit. if you feel the sub tho you can tell that it is working but its not hitting. The speaker itself doesnt move thats how little sound is coming out of it.

Here is what i have done to troubleshoot so far

- tried my spare amp too (xplod 760w) 10" sub, same result

- tried my spare box with 2 12" audiobahns to both amps, same result

- HU has the sub turned up all the way to +15

- tried all the dials on both amps and turned power to max

Please if you guys have any clue just let me know. ill take pictures if need be. after 10+ hours and 2 days i decided to break down and post and see what you guys thought.

Is it possible the HU is broken? The RC and power/ground wires are brand new

what Lanzar 2000w amp model is that, exactly?

 

[tranced 10+ year member]

well guys appreciate all the help. fortunately the problem is solved. i reconnected everything when i came home after i bought the rca jacks. and just for the hell of it decided to reconnect it just one more time and try it out. you know what happened from there lol. i have no clue what the problem was but its hitting away now. im just hoping it isnt a short somewhere thats gonna come back and haunt me in a week. you truely are a great, helpful community as i was overwhelmed with help even tho im a new memeber. keep doin what your doing guys and thanks again.

(its a lanzar viberant)

 

[tranced 10+ year member]

whats a better way to wire?

1 x 2000 Watts Max at 4 Ohms Bridged

or

2 x 800 Watts at 2 Ohms

 

[quackhead 10+ year member]

whats a better way to wire? 1 x 2000 Watts Max at 4 Ohms Bridged

or

2 x 800 Watts at 2 Ohms

Based on this info, I will assume it is the Lanzar Vibe266 model.

It is equipped with 2 x 20a fuses.

14.4v * 40a = 576 total watts

Lest assume a modest 65% efficiency:

576 * .65 = 374 watts /2ch = 187 watts per ch.

I would say the Lanzar Vibe266 amplifier is a tad overrated.

from the manual:

VIBE 266amplifier

2 x 150W rms@4 ohms

2 x 1000W max@4 ohms

1 x 2000W max@4 ohms

2 x 230W rms@2 ohms

2 ohm stable

0.04%

15Hz-35KHz, -1dB

250mV-5000mV

22 Kohm

>90dB

>65dB

35Hz-400Hz

80Hz-2.50KHz

+18dB

11.06"x2.24"x17"

20Ax2

 

[tranced 10+ year member]

im sorry i made a post half an hour ago that has yet to show up because it had to be reviewed by mods for some reason. maybe the links. sorry i didnt notice untill you had to assume what amp i had. its a vibe 268

2 x 500 Watts RMS at 4 Ohms

2 x 1000 Watts Max at 4 Ohms

1 x 2000 Watts Max at 4 Ohms Bridged

2 x 800 Watts at 2 Ohms

Electronic Crossover Network

Bass Boost Circuit

Bridgeable at 4 Ohms

2 Ohms Stereo Stable

Tri-Mode Capable

Gold RCA Inputs

Line Outs For Left & Right Channels.

Power & Protection LED Indicators

Advanced Protection Circuitry

Soft Turn On/Off

Remote Control Bass Booster

Frequency Response: 15 Hz - 35 kHz

S/N ratio: 90dB

Dimensions: 11.5"W x 2.3"H x 19"L

 

[quackhead 10+ year member]

im sorry i made a post half an hour ago that has yet to show up because it had to be reviewed by mods for some reason. maybe the links. sorry i didnt notice untill you had to assume what amp i had. its a vibe 268

2 x 500 Watts RMS at 4 Ohms

2 x 1000 Watts Max at 4 Ohms

1 x 2000 Watts Max at 4 Ohms Bridged

2 x 800 Watts at 2 Ohms

Electronic Crossover Network

Bass Boost Circuit

Bridgeable at 4 Ohms

2 Ohms Stereo Stable

Tri-Mode Capable

Gold RCA Inputs

Line Outs For Left & Right Channels.

Power & Protection LED Indicators

Advanced Protection Circuitry

Soft Turn On/Off

Remote Control Bass Booster

Frequency Response: 15 Hz - 35 kHz

S/N ratio: 90dB

Dimensions: 11.5"W x 2.3"H x 19"L

my bad...that is a way older discontinued model

well let's see what you are really working with:

30ax2

60a * 14.4 = 864 total watts

we will use the same very conservative 65% A/B efficiency:

864 * .65 = 562watts / 2ch = 281 watts per ch.

whether that is sliced and diced by 140.5 wattsx2 @ 4ohms, or 281 watts x2 at 2 ohms or 562 watts bridged mono @ 4ohms..it is what it is...and I am being conservative with the efficiency.

I would say that one is a tad overrated too.

Lanzar Vibe268:

Electronic crossover network

Bass boost circuit

2 Ohms stereo stable

Tri-mode capable

Line outs left&right channels

Power & protection LED indicators

Soft turn on/off

2x500W RMS at 4 Ohms

2x1000W MAX at 4 Ohms

1x2000W Max at 4 Ohms Bridged

2x800W RMS at 2 Ohms

Min. Speaker Impedance:2 Ohms

T.H.D. : 0.04%

Frequency response: 15Hz-35KHz, -1dB

Input Impedance: 22KOhm

S/N ratio: >90dB

Channel separation: >65dB

Crossover filters: Low pass:35Hz-400Hz, High Pass:80Hz-2.50KHz

Bass Boost: +18dB

Fuse:30Ax2

Dimensions:11.5"W x 2.3"H x 19"L

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_629_Lanzar-VIBE268-Viberant-Series.html

 

[quackhead 10+ year member]

I'd just run stereo til I could C/L that bish and get a more efficient amp with at least 140A of fusing to play with

 

[quackhead 10+ year member]

ps I ain't being a smart *** or critcizing you or your equipment...just showing you what's up.

 

[tranced 10+ year member]

its crazy how much they overrate these things. i was wondering why this thing isnt hitting much harder than it did when it was connected to the xplod. its hardly any more rms. i really want to wake up this sub up and thought this amp would do it guess it didnt. but w/e the amp was given to me.(thus why its an old model. that amps been powering bumpers since 04. question is now how overrated is the sub lol.

 

[tranced 10+ year member]

no your absolutely correct this stereo is literally a blast from the past lol. the only thing worth its weight is my sub imo. the xplod amp is a joke and apparently this lanzr amp aint much better lol. all in all the system only cost me the wiring harness to install as i had the parts laying around from previous installs. ive learned alot and thats worth somthing to me.

 

[quackhead 10+ year member]

I don't know much about the sub, @audiobaun might know them better than me. Lanzar makes some bad *** amps in the Opti line..but the Vibe and Heratige, etc....nah. A lot of folks here start out using Maxxsonics (Hifonics, Mb Quart). Look for Class D amps and as I hope you learned..look at the rms and the fuse ratings.
The Class D usually starts out at 80%+ at 4ohms dropping down to 60-70%(worst case) at 1 or .5 ohms..which is still far better than the the best Class A/B's in efficiency. If that amp you have actually put out 800watts rms per ch at 2 ohms, it would need at least about 230 amps of fusing...and you would need multiple batteries, etc.
Tell ya what though, that amp would drive a set of mid/high comps up front like mad.
stay cool-

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

[quote name='quackhead']I don't know much about the sub, @audiobaun might know them better than me. Lanzar makes some bad *** amps in the Opti line..but the Vibe and Heratige, etc....nah. A lot of folks here start out using Maxxsonics (Hifonics, Mb Quart). Look for Class D amps and as I hope you learned..look at the rms and the fuse ratings.
The Class D usually starts out at 80%+ at 4ohms dropping down to 60-70%(worst case) at 1 or .5 ohms..which is still far better than the the best Class A/B's in efficiency. If that amp you have actually put out 800watts rms per ch at 2 ohms, it would need at least about 230 amps of fusing...and you would need multiple batteries, etc.
Tell ya what though, that amp would drive a set of mid/high comps up front like mad.
stay cool-[/QUOTE]

To say the least..That sub is a monster!! I had 4 of them hitting in my truck back in 06 I believe..It is an old school USA Made/California made Audiobahn..I believe I still have one left up in my closet,with an 18 still in the crate..lol.. but those were DVC 4ohm subs,and rated @ 900 rms,and will do every bit of it..Get yourself a good old school Autotek Mean Machine 44/66/99,or a 7050-7300 bts amp even an old school Hifonics VII/VIII Cyclops,Hercules,Thor,and watch that joker come alive!! Best performance i got out of them were at a 2.4 cuft ported box with a 4in port x 6-6.50 in. long on a mean machine 99@2ohms on 1 sub..Ran a pair @1ohms on an old school Audiobahn HCT2200 on each pair,and even tried my HCT A4125 bridged @ 1kx2 @1ohms and later,@4ohms each on a USA US Acoustics Series II 2150,on ea sub.I believe they have a double stacked 220 oz magnet on them.I still have the specs booklet floating around if you need a copy of them..just let me know..But get a good amplifier,and build a box of at the min of a 1.6cu ft ported for the sub..you can not run it sealed..you will end up cooking the voice coils!! My brother did that,and was pretty upset about it..thats when they were $299.99 each new, and later discontinued going at a lowball price @ $99 bucks! a couple years later..PM me if you need any info on the sub, and I do have an amp to make it bang..be the best $130 shipped amp you will ever buy running @2ohms for that sub,and small foot print

 

[CrossoverOre 10+ year member]

radio shack sells a "mini amped speaker" just plug the rca into that and it will tell if you have signal at the amp. I think its about 10 bucks.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

radio shack sells a "mini amped speaker" just plug the rca into that and it will tell if you have signal at the amp. I think its about 10 bucks.

He just needs more power to move that sub man:escape: