I’m puzzled, any suggestions? Amp going into protection.

[BongHits4Steve0]

Hey everyone, I’m having an issue with my amp going into protection mode. It only does it when the engine is running. When the car is just in its accessories mode, the amp and subs beat super hard like they should.

It seems the amp stays on longer if I lower the bass to the negatives on my head unit. But I still can’t turn it up more than half way, or the amp will go into protection. This is with the gains way down and no bass boost FYI.

I’ve poked around a little bit with a multimeter and checked the power and remote wire at the amp, and the voltage seems to be right, even after it goes into protection mode, no voltage drop off or anything. That’s as far as I went with the multimeter.

I’ll try and give the best info I can on my setup.

-This is a factory radio install.
-I’ve got 2 pioneer champion 12” DVC 4-ohm subwoofers. 1400w max (400w rms)
-Pyramid 2000w, 2-ohm stable, 2 channel bridgable amp. (Brand new amp)
-Subs are wired together to push out a 4ohm load in bridged mode
-Seems to work better on a single channel, rather than bridging it.
-Power wire to the battery (in-line 80 amp fuse), negative is grounded tight on paint free surface, both wires are 5 gauge
-Remote wire running off a fuse in the engine bay using a fuse tap, I’ve also put a in-line 10 amp fuse for safety just in case.
-Using a kicker line output converter, tapped into both left and right back speakers, grounded as well.

If anyone can maybe piece this together, and has any suggestions it would be appreciated.

I personally feel like it maybe an ohms issue somewhere???? Not sure how or what to look for using the multimeter when it comes to the ohms(where to test or what numbers I should be looking for). thinking about wiring the subs in parallel and have them both on there own channel and see if that helps.

I’m just so confused as to why it works great with the car off, but not on

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[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Subwoofer Wiring Diagrams for Two 4 Ohm Dual Voice Coil Speakers

www.the12volt.com

Check your sub wiring for the 4 ohm load and make sure you are not wired towards the 1 ohm load.Your amplifier is only 2 ohm stable as you state. You should be running the REMOTE Wire Off The HU with no inline fuse, Straight wiring from the HU to the amplifier, (wired off the battery, its on all the time running and car sits long enough, the battery will drain.)Never heard of 5 ga wiring.Ill have to google that one up.(New on me).If its 4 ga, that plenty large enough for that amplifier.thats a 2 ohm stable amplifier.ToBridge properly, you should have the Poss.(+) wire going to R+, and your Negative(-) wire going to your L- to be bridged with the Crossover Mode set on LP. Tune accordingly

 

[BongHits4Steve0]

This is exactly how the subs a wired here, so it is a 4 ohm load.

As far as the wires gauge goes, I thought it was 5 gauge, says 5+ on the wire. Idk, it’s thick and it’s plenty to do the job

it’s a factory stereo on a new car with warranty, so ripping the dash apart is a no go for me at the moment. So the remote has to be somewhere else for me. Like I said, I used a fuse tap on a fuse that is hot when the ignition comes on for the remote wire. It’s not running from the battery.

 

[BongHits4Steve0]

This is exactly how the subs a wired here, so it is a 4 ohm load.
View attachment 21445
As far as the wires gauge goes, I thought it was 5 gauge, says 5+ on the wire. Idk, it’s thick and it’s plenty to do the job

it’s a factory stereo on a new car with warranty, so ripping the dash apart is a no go for me at the moment. So the remote has to be somewhere else for me. Like I said, I used a fuse tap on a fuse that is hot when the ignition comes on for the remote wire. It’s not directly on the battery.

 

[BongHits4Steve0]

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[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

This is a strange case. Impedance is on the safe side, it seems as if your amp is rejecting the 13.8v when the car is on. Try disconnecting the remote wire and reconnecting after the car is on. If no go, try relocating to another fuse. Some fuses have power in accessory mode, but lose it when car is turned on.