How to cover holes in your doors?

[peterletran 10+ year member]

I'm assuming certain types of silicon sealant are still malleable even after it has set. For example the factory supplied plastic sheet is adhered with a silicon substance, right? Worse comes to worse, silicon can be cut with a sharp razor blade or knife.

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[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Pics and description please audiobahn. I have extra deadener and want to go this route. I feel like I will F up MLV. Also list of materials and where you got them would be great. If its siliconed in, how are the sheets easily removable?

Never took any pics of the install on the doors, as I felt like I wasnt going to keep the vehicle this long..LOL.

Materials. ABS sheets were bought on E-bay in 12"x 12" sheets and I believe they were 1/4" in thickness as a bundle of 4 sheets

#1- removed the plastic sheeting from the door installed by Munufacture

#2- Cleaned the entire door with Alcohol

#3-installed deadner all over the door with the roller supplied and used a heat gun to make sure it stuck good(I used Fat Matt 80 mill)Openings still exposed at this

point.

#4- Took ABS sheets and cut to about 1/2"-3/4" larger than the openings,wiped down with alcohol

#5- placed Deadner on top of ABS, rolled it out,and applied heat gun at minimum so it made great contact.

#6- Cleaned/wiped down backside of ABS sheet ready for application/apply

#7- Apply a nice bead of Silocone around the opening

#8- Apply the sheet that was prepped for that opening

#9- Run a bead(thick) of Silicone around the outside of the ABS sheet,and smoothed out by hand/finger.

#10- Let sit to Dry,move to the next section to seal

#11- Ran Heat gun over Siliconed areas of the ABS ares an Minimum help hold while drying over night

Works Great and looks great as well as sealed up.

To remove the Sheet to gain access, Simply cut with box knife around pull back and cut ABS from Siliconed backing on the sheet to be removed to gain access to the internals of the door needed.To replace..Simply remove/peel off existing Silicone,Clean/wipe down with Alcohol and return with the steps of applying the sheet back in place.

Ive had to gain access back into my door to replace a cheap plastic clip for the door handle, and it was easy and easily to seal back up

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

5 Black ABS Plastic Sheet Vacuum Forming Textured Front Smooth Back 12" x 12" | eBay

You can get 1/8" up to whatever thickness youd like to use..I may have used 1/8".. can find deals in bundles shipped

Silicone-Home Depot/Lowes,ect

Alcohol-Any given store

Heat gun- Got mine at Orileys,again? Internet or local tools store/Northern Tool/Harbor Freight,ect

Deadner(Fat Matt 80 mil,what I used) works just fine (generally as a kit a wood roller comes with it)-Internet,car audio shops,ect.

Up to date, Ive had to pull my door panels off to swapp speakers and all panels installed are still in tact/no issues

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Just make sure that if you decide to do the ENTIRE door,as I always do..Make sure that you leave room for the rod to move freely/no obstruction,so you will not be removing the door panel again due to something as simple as that,and having an issue of hard opening/stress on the door rod.Lesson learned from my ignorance reason why I had to replace that cheap plastic door clip,I even added a zip tie to the cheasy plastic clip for strenght

 

[ladysmanfelpz 10+ year member]

Wow thanks man for the detailed write up. Never thought of the heat gun. I hope my outer door hushmat doesn't fall off //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/eek.gif.771b7a90cf45cabdc554ff1121c21c4a.gif!! That looks easy enough and I bet does look professional. I've got 90% alcohol for cleaning and some extra deadener. Just need to pick the sheets up and some silicone.

And KHA what did you use to apply your deadener? It looked like a paint roller with the roller removed to get into the tight areas where a nl roller is too big and ineffective.

 

[Umbra]

I know you're already headed one way with this and you've got some big names here weighing in, but I just wanted to throw what I did into the mix for you, or anyone else reading on that's interested.

I traced the shapes that I needed to cover onto paper, leaving a little excess around the edges and cut them out to make stencils. Then used the stencils to cut the shapes from a sheet of aluminum I bought from Home Depot (you'll want tin snips and gloves - stuff is sharp). Then I slapped some sound deadener on the panels towards the middle (I had the tiles). Then I applied some duct seal compound around the edges of the panels (Gardner Bender Duct Seal Compound Plug-DS-110 - The Home Depot) and used self-tapping sheet metal screws through that excess edge to secure it to the door. You can press a bunch of that duct seal between the structural metal bar in the door and the outside panel for cheap, effective bracing.

 

[fatboytyler]

I literally just did 100% coverage on my doors, including the holes with my Stinger Roadkill and it seems to have done a very good job.

 

[ladysmanfelpz 10+ year member]

Ya I've heard of that route too umbra. I think I would go the abs plastic route for a material to cover tho.

And how did that work out for you tyler? I've been thinking about that too. I know all you really need to do is cover the back wave, but with my large holes, I just didn't know if it needs something to brace or if the mat will stick and hole fine.

 

[CSCStang]

I know you're already headed one way with this and you've got some big names here weighing in, but I just wanted to throw what I did into the mix for you, or anyone else reading on that's interested.
I traced the shapes that I needed to cover onto paper, leaving a little excess around the edges and cut them out to make stencils. Then used the stencils to cut the shapes from a sheet of aluminum I bought from Home Depot (you'll want tin snips and gloves - stuff is sharp). Then I slapped some sound deadener on the panels towards the middle (I had the tiles). Then I applied some duct seal compound around the edges of the panels (Gardner Bender Duct Seal Compound Plug-DS-110 - The Home Depot) and used self-tapping sheet metal screws through that excess edge to secure it to the door. You can press a bunch of that duct seal between the structural metal bar in the door and the outside panel for cheap, effective bracing.

X2. Aluminum sheeting wrapped with roadkill is what I did for the larger holes. Then ccf and mlv.

 

[fatboytyler]

Ya I've heard of that route too umbra. I think I would go the abs plastic route for a material to cover tho.
And how did that work out for you tyler? I've been thinking about that too. I know all you really need to do is cover the back wave, but with my large holes, I just didn't know if it needs something to brace or if the mat will stick and hole fine.

My holes were huge. But its worked great, makes my CDT speakers sound great. Also made a drastic improvement in my stock speakers. Grant it, I've never done anything else so I don't have anything to compare it to.

 

[ladysmanfelpz 10+ year member]

Well blocking the back wave is really the only purpose and should make a drastic improvement in SQ even with stock speakers. You can add MLV like stang if you want to go for sound blocking.

So I think I got most of my materials set. But if I go for this full deadening project what do you guys use for the small rattles? I'm talking mostly about clips and other small connections like lights and door handles. I've seen some people use some type of foam, but a specific brand that works where I don't need to buy any more tools or adhesives would help me out greatly. Almost ready for a big order and garage time!!