how the hell can i power all of this in a civic?

[poz]

hey guys, i'm obviously new here.. so plz be nice =)

in my car right now i have an 800w amp + 2 10" rockford stage 2's.. i also have 2 pioneer 6" running of the head unit and stock speakers in the rear. i drive a 2001 honda civic LX sedan.. my problem is.. how can i run all of the following of one battery:

2000w amp (1 channel) -> 1 15" L7

800w amp (2 channel) -> 2 10" rockford stage 2's

500w amp (4 channel) -> 2 JL 6x9's (120w a pc), 2 tweeters (200w a pc)

one of my friends mentioned that i should use capacitors.. but i dont really understand how to use them. but this is the EXACT system i will have in about 1 week (the 2000w amp is ordered, as are the tweeters, 6x9's, and L7). the system will NEVER change, except maybe replacing the rear speakers with some non-stock ones.. i'm more of an "under the hood" kinda guy.. so, i dont rly know much about powering huge systems like this. ANY help is greatly appreciated, thank you VERY much.

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[revrider1 5,000+ posts]

Optima Battery, Distribution Block then to each amp

 

[Eugenics 5,000+ posts]

you're gonna need one hell of an electrical system. not to mention that might be a bit too much power for that L7 and you're gonna get cancelation by including the rockfords

 

[PhatTonyDeMarco 5,000+ posts]

Why would you put a 15" L7 and two 10" P2's in the same vehicle?

You will need one hefty HO altenator to push that stuff, if the RMS values are true. And I would look into multiple batteries.

 

[poz]

revrider,

are u saying an optima battery SEPARATE from the one i already have? and no, it's not too much power for the L7. the L7 is a 2000w sub, i'll turn the bass down like 10%.

 

[PhatTonyDeMarco 5,000+ posts]

I would reccomend a yellow top under the hood, and possible a second yellow in the trunk, or even better a red top for the trunk... Look into something like 250A for an alt as well... http://www.mean-green.com

 

[revrider1 5,000+ posts]

That would be good, but you are going to need a hell of an electrical system.

 

[Eugenics 5,000+ posts]

Dont Be A Retard That Is Going To Sound Like Total ***

 

[dbubble 10+ year member]

and no, it's not too much power for the L7. the L7 is a 2000w sub, i'll turn the bass down like 10%.

its gonna take 2000 watts daily?

 

[PhatTonyDeMarco 5,000+ posts]

its gonna take 2000 watts daily?

He says it can, so it must.... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crazy.gif.c13912c32de98515d3142759a824dae7.gif

 

[poz]

hrm.. should i lower it down to a 12" L7.. 1000w?

 

[poz]

hell no not 2000 daily. i dont know what the hell im talking about with audio, that's my problem. i was thinking of having the 10's just for midbass, the 15 for the massive low bass.

 

[Eugenics 5,000+ posts]

hell no not 2000 daily. i dont know what the hell im talking about with audio, that's my problem. i was thinking of having the 10's just for midbass, the 15 for the massive low bass.

dont mix and match subs, not a good idea

 

[stones 10+ year member]

Edit your system like this-

1200w amp (1 channel) -> 1 15" L7

800w amp (2 channel) ->a good 6.5 component set up front

Keep factory speaks in back hooked up to HU with fade set mostly to front.

Running the 10's and the 15 together will sound very "muddy".

A 1200 watt class D will pound the hell out of that L7

A good 6.5 component set properly installed will provide all the midbass you need.

You don't need to invest any time and money in rear fill, most people just do away with it entirely. Rear passengers are annoyed by having a speaker blaring full blast right beside them.

 

[PhatTonyDeMarco 5,000+ posts]

And just a little extra for your own knowledge, a 10" SUBwoofer will not play midbass tones, only subsonic. Just because a driver has a small(er) amount of cone area it does not mean it will automatically player higher frequencies, it depends on what it was manufactured to do.