How much airspace, 7" Dayton Refs

[LoudCrownVic 5,000+ posts]

Anyone familiar with the Dayton 7" refs and ran them in sealed enclosures, I want to know what cubic foot displacement you were working with. I have 2 drivers I want to put in each door.

If I make a pod in the location I have selected, I will have +/- .27 cubic feet to work with for two drivers.

I am curious what airspace you used in your sealed pods or what airspace I should use. I want to get some heavy hitting midbass out of them, and they arent' doing it freeair.

Thanks in advance

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[djdilliodon 10+ year member]

I have used them in .3 cubic feet sealed each and they did well. They also work well ported but didnt experiment enough so not sure which size is best.

 

[thehardknoxlife 10+ year member]

I take it your doors are fully deadened and sealed up as much as possible? I ran the 180s with the BG's also. I'm afraid you might want too much out of that set. Maybe it's time you take a step up in quality before you waste time and money on something that's not going to satisfy you. I might want the BG's back if you decide that route. Keep me in mind.

 

[LoudCrownVic 5,000+ posts]

I havent even hooked the BG's up yet. I am not concerned about my tweeter stage, atm, even though I am running $2.50 horn tweeters stuck in place with about $5 worth of hot glue... My midbass sucks. It basically ruins the whole fidelity of the system not having good midbass. I BOUGHT these speakers for great MIDBASS. And they dissappoint like picking up a chick with a dick.

You stay away from my neos. Mine. At least until I get them hooked up and mess with them for awhile.

Anyway...

I can make a .27 cu ft pod per door which I would like to put two daytons in. So, 4 midbasses total. Two crammed into about .13 cubes each. According to Mr djdillidon, only one will work in that airspace.

 

[thehardknoxlife 10+ year member]

I havent even hooked the BG's up yet. I am not concerned about my tweeter stage, atm, even though I am running $2.50 horn tweeters stuck in place with about $5 worth of hot glue... My midbass sucks. It basically ruins the whole fidelity of the system not having good midbass. I BOUGHT these speakers for great MIDBASS. And they dissappoint like picking up a chick with a dick.
You stay away from my neos. Mine. At least until I get them hooked up and mess with them for awhile.

Anyway...

I can make a .27 cu ft pod per door which I would like to put two daytons in. So, 4 midbasses total. Two crammed into about .13 cubes each. According to Mr djdillidon, only one will work in that airspace.

Lol, I had my 180s in a fully deadened door sealed up as much as it could be. The midbass was nothing to rave about but was very present. Have you tried wiring them in/out of phase? One of the 180s I had was labeled wrong or it just liked to be wired backwards. Sounds like somethings wrong what do you have them crossed at.

 

[LoudCrownVic 5,000+ posts]

They hit, don't get me wrong, but no sound comes out on the lower freqs. There is no "punch" like I want. Not even a pop. Yes my doors are deadened.

The speakers move alot but don't make any midbass. Hence my interest in making an enclosure/doorpod.

 

[jrouter76 10+ year member]

Lol, I had my 180s in a fully deadened door sealed up as much as it could be. The midbass was nothing to rave about but was very present. Have you tried wiring them in/out of phase? One of the 180s I had was labeled wrong or it just liked to be wired backwards. Sounds like somethings wrong what do you have them crossed at.

I did and it did not increase midbassb output at all ,you are right on with your assesment of the Daytons,I had the same problem,its like the midbass is there but its transparent.

 

[thehardknoxlife 10+ year member]

They hit, don't get me wrong, but no sound comes out on the lower freqs. There is no "punch" like I want. Not even a pop. Yes my doors are deadened.
The speakers move alot but don't make any midbass. Hence my interest in making an enclosure/doorpod.

Ah, I'd say step up the quality. IMO the strong point was the midrange, very lively(after I found the right x-over point and eq curve). IIRC a few people say that. Plenty of people like the RS's to where you'd have no problem getting your money back. The RS sound great for what they are but they're not midbass monsters. An enclose might bring some of it out but I still would think a better mid would be the most cost effective solution. What song are you trying to achieve the"punch"?

It took me alot of time to get the sound to how I wanted to hear it. Low x-over point, close to double rms(BG's were 1/2 rms lol ,what 10-11 watts), and I can't remember the EQ I fooled with it so much. This is all according to my DMM and p860 V25.

 

[MiniVanMan 10+ year member]

Two Dayton RS180s would need considerably more airspace than .27 cubes. You'll only make it worse by doing that.

The Daytons are not subs, and the midbass is very clear, detailed and snappy. You can call it transparent if you want, but I prefer accurate. If you're looking for more midbass presence, you may want to get away from metal cones all together. Find something with paper, kevlar, or some kind of mix. Those materials are more suited to a fatter midbass sound.

Check out the RNX series drivers from Seas for speakers that put out gobs of midbass in doors. The CA18RNX is a midbass monster. The L18 takes the cake, but is an aluminum cone so the midbass is more on par with the RS180s, though the L18 does dig deeper. The L18 is also unsuitable for a 2-way installation without a VERY expensive tweeter. The P18RNX is a very capable poly coned driver that kind of gets the best of both worlds. Those drivers are under $75.00 each, so they're an easy recommendation. The soon to be new craze will the be the E18RNX. Be the first on your block with a set so you can rave about them. They've been tested, but reviews have not been published yet. However, like the rest of the series, they will be very capable. If I were in the market for new drivers, I wouldn't hesitate to try them out.

What will you be crossing your BG Neos at?

 

[jrouter76 10+ year member]

Two Dayton RS180s would need considerably more airspace than .27 cubes. You'll only make it worse by doing that.
The Daytons are not subs, and the midbass is very clear, detailed and snappy. You can call it transparent if you want, but I prefer accurate. If you're looking for more midbass presence, you may want to get away from metal cones all together. Find something with paper, kevlar, or some kind of mix. Those materials are more suited to a fatter midbass sound.

Check out the RNX series drivers from Seas for speakers that put out gobs of midbass in doors. The CA18RNX is a midbass monster. The L18 takes the cake, but is an aluminum cone so the midbass is more on par with the RS180s, though the L18 does dig deeper. The L18 is also unsuitable for a 2-way installation without a VERY expensive tweeter. The P18RNX is a very capable poly coned driver that kind of gets the best of both worlds. Those drivers are under $75.00 each, so they're an easy recommendation. The soon to be new craze will the be the E18RNX. Be the first on your block with a set so you can rave about them. They've been tested, but reviews have not been published yet. However, like the rest of the series, they will be very capable. If I were in the market for new drivers, I wouldn't hesitate to try them out.

What will you be crossing your BG Neos at?

I have agree with you very clear and clean sounding, they do sound nice, and you can put some power to them,I learned something about metal cones from what you stated above, thanks for that tid bit of info.