Hmm really didn't expect headlight dimming already...

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Bossman150

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My installer says he has the VFL 100.1 set at about 500watts for the break in period, and my little SS 4.500 can't be doing much more than 200 watts RMS. Last night after I switched my sub to a bigger sealed box from a smaller ported I noticed my headlights would dim on strong bass hits at higher volume. The sealed box is 1.2 cf which is double the size of a sealed box JL recommends, would that cause the amp to pull more current?

My stock alternator is 120amp I think, so right now both amps together should not be pulling more than 800 watts RMS. The dimming is at idle, I have not noticed it while driving but that doesn't mean its not happening. The big 3 is next on my list next month, way over my spending budget this month. I just did not think it would happen until I added a second w6. My battery is brand new too.

 
there's less impedance rise from a sealed box compared to a ported box. Read up on box rise/impedance rise. Basically if you are wired to 1 ohm nominally, you'll normally fall into around ~ 2 ohms actual "reactive" impedance

 
could be ground.

also some cars headlights dim at a very minimal low voltage drop.

my cars headlights dim at half a volt drop, you should get a voltage meter and connect it at the subs amp pos terminal at amp.

also big 3 kits are expensive on sites and stores.

mylows10 sell big 3 kits for $30 i believe

 
If you have a 120 amp alternator theb your idle will be 50-60 amps.

Then on top of that if you have a cheap lead acid battery it wont last during high volumes in idle.

Sent from my Z970 using Tapatalk

 
If you have a 120 amp alternator theb your idle will be 50-60 amps.
Then on top of that if you have a cheap lead acid battery it wont last during high volumes in idle.

Sent from my Z970 using Tapatalk
Ah, well that makes sense then, didn't realize it dropped that low. My batter is a brand new AutoCraft Gold Battery, Group Size 35, 640 CCA 35-2: Advance Auto Parts Not sure how good it is, had to replace my battery on a Sunday and this was the best I could get.

 
Ah, well that makes sense then, didn't realize it dropped that low. My batter is a brand new AutoCraft Gold Battery, Group Size 35, 640 CCA 35-2: Advance Auto Parts Not sure how good it is, had to replace my battery on a Sunday and this was the best I could get.
Yeah when the engine is cold the alternator will put out 10-12 amps more then usual until hot then drops to normal running amperage.

Also that is a lead acid battery, it takes longer to charge then a agm type battery.

Do you plan to expand or upgrade your system? If not a compacitor will work ideally for your current setup. Anything more then, will make a compacitor a leech.

Sent from my Z970 using Tapatalk

 
Yeah when the engine is cold the alternator will put out 10-12 amps more then usual until hot then drops to normal running amperage.
Also that is a lead acid battery, it takes longer to charge then a agm type battery.

Do you plan to expand or upgrade your system? If not a compacitor will work ideally for your current setup. Anything more then, will make a compacitor a leech.

Sent from my Z970 using Tapatalk
Do you really, honestly think it's called a "compacitor"?

Op- I would look into a small second battery (unless you intend to upgrade to more power in the future). Your big 3 idea may help as well.

 
Some vehicles lights dim at even a very small difference in voltage (+ or - 0.25 - 0.50v). In my truck my stock alternator charged at 14.3 - 14.4 and the lights would dim by 13.5v - 13.7v.

Got my new alternator in (Mechman 250a elite series). It charges at 15.0v and even running full tilt i never see below 14.3! I love it!

 
Do you really, honestly think it's called a "compacitor"?
Op- I would look into a small second battery (unless you intend to upgrade to more power in the future). Your big 3 idea may help as well.
I don't want a second battery, I can't afford anymore trunk space lol. I will do the big 3, and then after I add a second w6 I will decide if I need an HO alt or not. Right now I am struggling with doing a spare tire sealed box or having Chris build me a custom ported box. I am just not sure if I can give up the space a custom ported box will take. When my 2 boys and I take trips or I do my monthly Sam's or Costco run I need my trunk. I actually bought all the stuff for the fiber glass part of the spare tire box, but on the way home I realized at speed the 1 10w6 in the current sealed box just wasn't enough. Gah why did the car audio bug have to bite again lol.

 
Do you really, honestly think it's called a "compacitor"?
Op- I would look into a small second battery (unless you intend to upgrade to more power in the future). Your big 3 idea may help as well.
Oh grand master im sorry it is capacitor.. End of the world mistake!

I don't want a second battery, I can't afford anymore trunk space lol. I will do the big 3, and then after I add a second w6 I will decide if I need an HO alt or not. Right now I am struggling with doing a spare tire sealed box or having Chris build me a custom ported box. I am just not sure if I can give up the space a custom ported box will take. When my 2 boys and I take trips or I do my monthly Sam's or Costco run I need my trunk. I actually bought all the stuff for the fiber glass part of the spare tire box, but on the way home I realized at speed the 1 10w6 in the current sealed box just wasn't enough. Gah why did the car audio bug have to bite again lol.
If trunk space after the w6 is a problem then just the smallest high output alt you can find should suffice.

Replace your starter battery with a better agm type battery for starters and do the big 3. You can even put and overdrive pulley on your stock alt to get a little more power during idle, but you will need a new belt.

Sent from my Z970 using Tapatalk

 
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