Hifonics 1605D guts/Help.

[thatguy 10+ year member]

i bought this amp from a member.

received it today and notice some ratling inside the amps chasis.

took it apart and found out that there is a capacitor loose inside.

I wonder how he had the amp mounted.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

it prolly happen during shipping. (not to blame the seller)

My question is, can i replace this cap with the same 250V 22uf cap or i need a special cap for it? and if i do replace it, on the board, the is a white half circle that that mean that for the negative lead on the cap. ( jst to refresh my knowledge the longer lead on a cap its the negative correct?) help me out i wanna get this done today and out of the way.

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[dB-r 10+ year member]

Is that a polarized or non-polarized cap? It looks like it may be part of the output filter circuit (all D class amps have this circuit) and I am pretty sure the caps are usually non-polarized. Does the cap have a stripe on it with little electrons running down it? That would be the negative. Not sure if the neg or pos would go to the white. Look at the other caps in the amp and their corresponding silkscreen.

BTW nice amp.

 

[thatguy 10+ year member]

the capcitor i removed was not polarized. i replaced it with a polarized one.

will that make a difference? will it even work?

ill test it out tonight

 

[Rich B 5,000+ posts]

the capcitor i removed was not polarized. i replaced it with a polarized one.will that make a difference? will it even work?

ill test it out tonight

Dont hook it up yet.

It was non-polarized for a reason.

You need to replace it with another non-polarized cap of the same ratings.

 

[thatguy 10+ year member]

tested it and its working Fine.

 

[thatguy 10+ year member]

Dont hook it up yet.
It was non-polarized for a reason.

You need to replace it with another non-polarized cap of the same ratings.

that wat i thought too but why does the baord has a polarized readin on it?

Jst so u know i jst popped 2 JL 12W0's with this amp.

its a very powerful amp.

 

[dB-r 10+ year member]

You replaced it with a 22uf 250V polarized cap?

You should have replaced it with a non-polarized cap of the same uF and at least as much voltage handling and temperature handling 105* in this case....

 

[dB-r 10+ year member]

You popped 2 W0's with it? Like burned them up? In a box, not in free-air (out of a box)? Doubt it. Unless that polarized capacitor had something to do with it.... DC in the voice coil will burn up any speaker within seconds to minutes...

 

[thatguy 10+ year member]

You replaced it with a 22uf 250V polarized cap?
You should have replaced it with a non-polarized cap of the same uF and at least as much voltage handling and temperature handling 105* in this case....

the capacitor i replaced it with the exact same specs as the old one, same uf,temp,voltage but the only thing that is not right is that its polarized instnd of non polarized.

 

[dB-r 10+ year member]

Put the non-polarized cap back in there, otherwise you may make a really gooey mess inside your amp one day when you are banging the heck out of that amp. Is there something wrong with the non-polarized cap that you couldn't put it back in the amp?

Polarized caps are made for handling DC voltages, removing AC voltages.

Non-Polarized cap are made for filtering AC noises, mostly in passive crossover type setups. A class D sub amp needs a output filter to remove the switching noise from the output FET's signal, then it is compared via a feedback circuit to the input signal. If it varies, it corrects as it goes to make the output signal match the input signal (just a larger version of the exact same signal).

Changing that capacitor can cause that signal to not look right, and cause distortion in the output signal. Also if that cap is not capable of handling 250V continuously it will eventually heat up and spew oily paper crap everywhere inside your amp.

You may be okay, if the replacement really is a 250V cap, but only if. Any less and poof, oily junk everywhere.

 

[thatguy 10+ year member]

Put the non-polarized cap back in there, otherwise you may make a really gooey mess inside your amp one day when you are banging the heck out of that amp. Is there something wrong with the non-polarized cap that you couldn't put it back in the amp?
Polarized caps are made for handling DC voltages, removing AC voltages.

Non-Polarized cap are made for filtering AC noises, mostly in passive crossover type setups. A class D sub amp needs a output filter to remove the switching noise from the output FET's signal, then it is compared via a feedback circuit to the input signal. If it varies, it corrects as it goes to make the output signal match the input signal (just a larger version of the exact same signal).

Changing that capacitor can cause that signal to not look right, and cause distortion in the output signal. Also if that cap is not capable of handling 250V continuously it will eventually heat up and spew oily paper crap everywhere inside your amp.

You may be okay, if the replacement really is a 250V cap, but only if. Any less and poof, oily junk everywhere.

thanx for the info, ill replace later this weekend when i take it apart to have it powdercoated.

another question is, i remotely mounted the replacement cap, cause i couldnt get the old solder of the board. some how i my 25watt soldering iron its not doing it or the solders are coated with some temperproof cemicals.

Have u ever encounter such and issue?

 

[thatguy 10+ year member]

^bump!

 

[05fronty 5,000+ posts]

you got some desoldering braid? radio shack has it and it will **** up the solder

 

[dB-r 10+ year member]

You have to remove the solder, a 25 watt iron is minimum, may not work well, I use a 40 watt on anything normal, and a butane torch on anything large, like transformer windings, bus bars etc... For caps like that a 30 watt-40 watt iron would be best. Either use desoldering braid or buy a vacuum desoldering pump (like $7.00 or so) to get the old solder out of the holes. Put the part in the holes, and solder it good and hot, nice even flow, not bubble shaped, kinda cone shaped when it's hot enough. And should be shiny, not dull. Go look at my website for examples. http://www.db-r.com

Chris