Have TC epic 10, need sq but not as powerful

npcout
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I have a small 2015 Honda Fit, hatchback no trunk. I have a jbl 500rms amp that apparently was tested over 700rms. I had my TC epic 10 in a custom ported box specially made for the sub, sounded unreal. I turned into a more sq guy so I sealed it per the subs recommendation size. Hits freakin hard, quick, accurate, awesome sq.

It is just to loud, I have the gains like all the way down. It's just to much for my tiny car and I'm not into loudness really, I prefer a more musical sq. I listen to a lot of country, not really rap and all.

My amp does,

250rms X 1 or 500rms bridged. I'd prefer a sealed sq sub. Any suggestions? I was thinking the ported JL microsub 8in? I don't want to spend a hell of a lot if possible. Kid on the way

 
My two current options I have been thinking about,

1. JL 8in microsub ported

2. Image dynamics ID-8. Not sure if this is better ported or sealed

 
Moving to an 8" is a good move but why not simply adjust the level at the head unit to minimize the overall subwoofer output? Sounds like you may need to improve your front stage if you feel like the subwoofer is overpowering it.

You will miss that EPIC 10", believe me.

 
Moving to an 8" is a good move but why not simply adjust the level at the head unit to minimize the overall subwoofer output? Sounds like you may need to improve your front stage if you feel like the subwoofer is overpowering it.
You will miss that EPIC 10", believe me.
I'm running a jbl ms-8 sound processor. My sub is not overpowering my speakers by any means. I have it adjusted so it doesn't. The sub is just to loud. I have the settings all neutral on the head unit and ms-8. The gains at 20 on my sub amp. the punch of the sub is just to much.

 

---------- Post added at 03:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:10 PM ----------

 

700rms is just a lot for my small car and my liking and the epic 10 sealed is a power hungry beast.

 
I'm not sure I follow. One should be able to take a 15" driver and adjust the level & frequency response to be able to match nearly any front stage. Logic dictates that this should also be possible for a 10" driver. I have a 10" that will very easily overpower my front stage but I can level match it to disappear completely, to where I feel like the sub is not playing.

Why have the ms-8 only to have all settings on neutral? I promise I'm not trying to be difficult, I'm just not understanding you.

 
The ms-8 is boosting the sub. Mine does it sometimes. Recalibrate it with the gain all the way maxed out. After it's done drop the gain back down to the 2v point or back it down more.

 
I'm not sure I follow. One should be able to take a 15" driver and adjust the level & frequency response to be able to match nearly any front stage. Logic dictates that this should also be possible for a 10" driver. I have a 10" that will very easily overpower my front stage but I can level match it to disappear completely, to where I feel like the sub is not playing.
Why have the ms-8 only to have all settings on neutral? I promise I'm not trying to be difficult, I'm just not understanding you.
I'll be honest, I'm not a car audio expert. I no your trying to help bro and I appreciate it. As far as neutral, I have other settings adjusted, I just have the subwoofer level on the ms-8 neutral. Like I said, the sub is not overpowering the fronts, I have it adjusted to prevent that. The sub is just power hungry and only sounds good imo when it's pushed harder. It's either loud and perfect, or essentially flat, I can't find a middle line.

I feel like getting a 250rms 8in and pushing it hard would sound better than down playing what an epic 10 can do. Maybe I'm wrong, idk I never tried.

 

---------- Post added at 04:24 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:23 PM ----------

 

The ms-8 is boosting the sub. Mine does it sometimes. Recalibrate it with the gain all the way maxed out. After it's done drop the gain back down to the 2v point or back it down more.
That is how I did it, I did it with the gain off, @40 and @80 (max).

 
I get you now, that makes more sense.

It doesn't come alive until a certain point so dynamics are nonexistent if you're listening at low levels? Something like that?

If so, you can always go the big sealed box route. This lets the driver remain dynamic with low power input, and at low listening levels.

 
Why not try a sealed box or just install a bass knob for your amp. With the knob all the way low it should cut a lot off your sub output when you want it, but still allow you to get funky when you want to. Its what i did with my SI bm MKIV's.

 
sounds like a poor tune more than anything. I can get 4 18s to sound proper and blended and retain proper bandwidth at low volumes, you should be able to do it too with a much better sound processor. If its too much punch, you need to ease off the 45-55hz range a bit.

Maybe redo the calibration but have the gain up and a 45hz bass boost up on the amp as well. Then lower it afterwards. It should take away some punch while keeping everything else in check.

 
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