good ground for rear batt? you tell me........

UNDERGROUND_BUM
10+ year member

CarAudio.com Elite
ok so im going to be running a batt in the rear, and dont really want to run another line of 0 gauge for the negative run. do you guys think this would be a good ground? its where the spare tire attaches to in a 06 civic sedan....... and yes id sand it ; )

2i6vys.jpg


 
Excellent spot for a ground if you ask me.... and nice damping job....(not being a smarta$$ either) i know how the **** well rattles to hell in back in those cars!!!! maybe even a coat or 2 of bedliner in a can would help the untreated areas? it worked wonders in my little hatchback. got a little off topic BUT the ground choice looks like it was made for it....

 
nice find man............where did you bolt it down? and are you running a batt in the back?
no batt but stinger 3 farad cap with 0 ground and have very little voltage drops so it seems to be a pretty good ground. bolted about 2 inches down and 2 inches to the left in relation to your pic you posted. when i do put the spare back in it doesnt interfere with it. thats how i bought the car though. if i did it myself i think i would of tried to bolt it to the metal hump right where the seats fold down (if that makes any sense and if the 06 has the same piece as my 05). i dont like the fact that there is a hole in my trunk floor, im paranoid like that. from underneath the car the two bolts are coated in a rubber epoxy to protect it from the elements but it still makes me paranoid.

 
spend an exttra 12$ at knukonceptz for somemore 1/0 and ground right to the battery. i used to always ground everything to the cars body and then i started grounding on the battery, will never go back. EVER. best ground possible, glad people here made me see the light when i first came here

 
spend an exttra 12$ at knukonceptz for somemore 1/0 and ground right to the battery. i used to always ground everything to the cars body and then i started grounding on the battery, will never go back. EVER. best ground possible, glad people here made me see the light when i first came here
you run wire all the way from your trunk back up to your engine batt for your ground? thought they were supposed to be short?

 
spend an exttra 12$ at knukonceptz for somemore 1/0 and ground right to the battery. i used to always ground everything to the cars body and then i started grounding on the battery, will never go back. EVER. best ground possible, glad people here made me see the light when i first came here
if it was 12 bucks i would have done it already........ ok when i get my 0 gauge all cut to lengths i'll see how much i need exactly and possibly get some more. danm this shits getting expensive //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif alternators, batts, wire, for all that money i could have bought me some top notch ***** ahaha j/k. thanks i'll try to c if i can run a - to -

 
you run wire all the way from your trunk back up to your engine batt for your ground? thought they were supposed to be short?
On most newer cars, they don't use great conductive material, so you'd want to use the frame, or the engine block, as a GREAT ground, since they are usually the most conductive materials. You do want short grounds, but if it's not very conductive, it's worthless?

OP : Buy a 2 or 4 gauge run that would reach the front battery, and use it as the POSITIVE, and use the existent 1/0 as the GROUND, if you want to save money.

 
On most newer cars, they don't use great conductive material, so you'd want to use the frame, or the engine block, as a GREAT ground, since they are usually the most conductive materials. You do want short grounds, but if it's not very conductive, it's worthless?
OP : Buy a 2 or 4 gauge run that would reach the front battery, and use it as the POSITIVE, and use the existent 1/0 as the GROUND, if you want to save money.
i'll be running about 300 amps........

with a high output alt.

 
you run wire all the way from your trunk back up to your engine batt for your ground? thought they were supposed to be short?
correct. and most state that it is supposed to be short, but if you go through all the equations and math you will find out the your cars body whether it be a uni-body or not, will have more resistance in the grounds path then a long run of 1/0 will bolted directly to the negative side of the battery. i believe it was helotaxi who explained it all to me and i kept saying he was wrong until he put it on paper. i definately thought i knew more then i did and never think that because its never true.

 
are you guys grounding the amp to the battery in the rear than, if you run the ground from that batt is going to the front battery?
if you add a second battery in the back then yes. you will have wire run from both battery terminals under the hood (postive and negative) to the positive and negative battery posts on the battery in the back. then from there you can run your postive and negative amp connections to the battery in the back. but if you are only running the battery under the hood, i highly recommend running 2 wires to the trunk. 1 for postive and 1 for negative.

 
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UNDERGROUND_BUM

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