Glassing midbasses in doors

[JonJT 10+ year member]

When you go to glass a midbass driver ina door pod, do you guys creade a fully sealed pod that fits onto or into the door itself? OR, do you seal up the door and use the empty space in the door as part of the enclosure? I'm pressed for space in my pods and I want to use the empty space in the door as part of the enclosure, but I'm not sure if completely sealing the door is possible.

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[req 5,000+ posts]

you need it completly sealed

and it would be very hard to use that space unless you started cutting the door up.

 

[OlogyAudio 10+ year member]

if the speaker pod is too small it can be worse to have a properly sealed VERY HIGH Qtc alignment... than a lossy mostly IB with some rear wave cancelation type deal... if you can get it ****ed well sealed its good enough (* if the leaks are small it will act like a port of a very low tuning frequency and emulate a sealed resposne with some odd abberations... -- but if it is too leaky... bye bye bass -- it would be fun to try it both ways? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif you can always patch up the speaker pod and see which one you like better... its hard to predict these things....

 

[JonJT 10+ year member]

Um, yes I know I need to have the enclosure completely sealed, that's a given. I just need as much space as I can get. I'm going to be using Koda 8's. THe drivers are large to begin with and I want as close to 1 cube as possible.

Basically, you guys are saying that it's nearly impossible to completely seal a car door from teh inside and that I would be better off trying to make a fiberglass enclosure that could fit right onto the door? Please note though, when I say seal the door up, I don't mean try to glass the inside of the door. I mean go around teh door and cover any places that could be potential leaky spots, effectly like trying to cover the holes in a piece of swish cheese. I would then make, sort of a glass covering that would fit over part of the door and would hold the driver and complete the seal, while adding to enclosure volume.

 

[Raven 10+ year member]

Lotta effort depending on the door. You're better off going for a sealed pod and risking a high Qtc. If you could get the Qtc to peak at the bottom end of where you're crossing them over, I bet that would blend in nice with the subwoofers.

 

[hellbender 10+ year member]

I dont mean to sound stupid but how can you possibly make a perfect seal in a car door? Wont air escape out of the window opening? Not to mention the very small drain holes in the bottom of the door that you have to leave openfor water to drain out.The best you can do is to just seal up all the holes in the door skin right?

 

[JonJT 10+ year member]

Actually, guys. Guy over at soundillusions.net pointed me to an AP enclosure. While they are not as efficient as a ported box, nor will they play as loud, the rediculously small space required to make a good one is far with the effort. I still need to seperate the front and rear waves, but doing so shouldn't be hard at all. I think AP is seriously the ticket.

On a side note, I listen to all types of music, but one thing I hate is ear drum vibrating, eye shaking bass. I like things to blend and I won't be listening to music any louder than 110db for any length of time. I'll leave the 120+db runs to my home theater sub and to the SPL guys.

 

[OlogyAudio 10+ year member]

A-periodic enclosures.... need low Q drivers..... badly...... if your driver happens to be of .7 Q for example... ugk well yea... these enclosures are very sensitive! -- you could turn your door pannel into an A-periodic enclosure with the required volume for a high Q driver but who knows what the Q of your midwoofer is..... some are low so they don't need much room to breathe -- some are very high as they are meant for IB...

AP is a mess if someone knows about your setup in particular though I say give it a shot and let everyone else know how it turned out... I've never messed with AP in cars -- just home...

 

[JonJT 10+ year member]

It's a Koda. I've been told that drivers with a system Q of about .5 or lower would be well suited to an AP enclosure. I have Koda 8s and the QTS is .42. I think I will give it a shot.

 

[UndercoverPunk 5,000+ posts]

Hello Whitebread.

 

[JonJT 10+ year member]

Y hello thar

 

[Justintoxicated 10+ year member]

I sealed my doors up as much as I could, not much air ecsapes out of the window, however with my comps just runnign of teh HU they roduce enough midbass to shoot air ou the Door Panel clip pop holes. Enough TO undo the JB weld I had used to repair a clip Holder that busted off (instead of the clip reaking the holder broke!). Currently this is my biggest issue, it makes the clip vibrate like crazy and it sound worse than before I deadened my doors. I will figure something out this weekend though. The air shooting out the clip holes cause the loose clip to vibrate way too much...Other door sounds petty good though.

 

[JonJT 10+ year member]

Hmmm, well, I still don't know what type of enclosure I'm going to try using. But, anyway I do it, it seems that the door is going to become part of the speakers enclosure in some fashion. I just don't know if I'm going to go aperiodic, sealed, ported or IB. Need to do more research.

 

[Justintoxicated 10+ year member]

just make sure you can roll down the windows when your done!

 

[JonJT 10+ year member]

just make sure you can roll down the windows when your done!

The kodas only have a mounting depth of 4 inches and I'm ore than willing to make the woffers protrude into the cabin a little. I'm sure the window will be able to go all the way down.