Give me your critique.

[pro-rabbit 5,000+ posts]

What is the net volume? I didn't catch that part. Also, if you can I would drop the port down and the sub cutout to where the sub sits just over the port...also, add bracing.

If you are short on volume, then yes, I would down grade..but I didn't do any math I'm on my way and I'm tired lol.

 

[Full Tilt 10+ year member]

What is the net volume? I didn't catch that part. Also, if you can I would drop the port down and the sub cutout to where the sub sits just over the port...also, add bracing.
If you are short on volume, then yes, I would down grade..but I didn't do any math I'm on my way and I'm tired lol.

IIRC, the box is aimed @ 3.8 gross, 3.5 net volume. The sub accounts for about .17 and the port ~.14 or so. I'd like to construct the box myself, but I'm not really sure how to add bracing. I'll look it up and make the box a little bigger to account for the brace.

 

[Full Tilt 10+ year member]

Here's a thought - think design #2 would work if I inverted the sub and added bracing?

 

[THATpurpleKUSH 5,000+ posts]

My advice is to get an 8inch sonotube (cement form) from home depot for $5, get the one that 7 3/4inch wide or whatever the smallest is, do sub back, port to the side, you will need 24inches of length to get a 35hz tune with 3.5 cu/ft. If you go up in volume to 4 cu/ft, you can get the length down to ~20inches. If you went with 31 wide, same height at 16.25 and a little more depth, like 19-20, that should give you enough room after displacements for about 4 cu/ft. Bracing is done with simple dowel rods, at least 1inch in diameter.

Build this box, only use the smallest size of 8inch sonotube instead of 3inch aeros: