Sold FS: Kicker ZR series amp circuit boards

[Ge0 10+ year member]

Let me start by saying these circuit boards are NON FUNCTIONAL!!!

With that said...

For one reason or another I have a small stock of non-functional Kicker ZR, XS, and ZX series amplifier printed circuit board assemblies. I repaired many of them, threw them in heat sinks, and sold them to friends as refurbs. To make a long story short, I got busy in life and dropped this activity. They have been sitting in my basement for a few years. I've come to the realization that I will never do anything with these again now that I have a babies in the house. No time!!!

If you ever wanted to screw around with amplifiers at the board level this is your chance. In most cases these are relatively easy to fix. I will offer whatever advice I can to help you get them up and running. Mind you, if you do get them running and you want to use them, you'll need to buy a heat sink or fabricate one yourself (which can be fun).

Here is my price list.

ZR1000 - $40

XS100 - $40

ZR600 - $35

XS50 - $35

ZR360 - $25

ZX460 - $20

ZR240 - $20

ZR120 - $15

Willing to give discounts for package deals.

I am newer here but have been around various forums for over 10 years. References available upon request. Or, search my user name on Elite caraudio, Sound Domain, or DIY mobile audio.

Pictured are ZR1000, ZR240, and ZR600 PCBs. I can take others on request.

Click to read more...

 

[Ge0 10+ year member]

I want some of these boards gone. They are consuming too much space in my basement.

Great for experimenting with audio electronics and amp fabrication. Do it yourself at is finest //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif.

Here is my revised price list.

ZR1000 - $30

XS100 - $30

ZR600 - $25

XS50 - $25

ZR360 - $20

ZX460 - $15

ZR240 - $15

ZR120 - $10

I will offer substantial discount on package deals.

Ge0

 

[Ge0 10+ year member]

Would there be any interest in these if I repaird them prior to shipment? You would still need to supply heatsink / chassis. But, building a 500W x8 amp would be do-able. Muah hah hah hah....

Ge0

 

[mjf 10+ year member]

Would there be any interest in these if I repaird them prior to shipment? You would still need to supply heatsink / chassis. But, building a 500W x8 amp would be do-able. Muah hah hah hah....
Ge0

i would consider if two things

i need 100+x4 @4 (possibly more pending price/ how much i would be looking at for a heatsink)

you can direct me one how/where i would be looking for a heatsink

 

[Ge0 10+ year member]

i would consider if two things
i need 100+x4 @4 (possibly more pending price/ how much i would be looking at for a heatsink)

you can direct me one how/where i would be looking for a heatsink

The simplest route to obtaining a heat sink is to grab one intended for the amp boards you choose off ebay. They show up now and then. However, what is the fun in that? Building you own is not that difficult. However, you need some basic fabrication skills to pull it off.

For instance, the last amp I put together used two ZR1000 boards stacked vertically. I purchased surplus heatsink material from an old ADCOM home amp design for about $10 shipped. The remainder of the material you'll need to construct the heat sink and to fab mounting brackets can be purchased at your local Home Depot, Lowes, or hardware store. I made the bottom cover plate from aluminum sheet stock purchased from http://www.onlinemetals.com/. Cheap prices and quick service. The top cover plate was made of lexan.

The amp was modeled after the TRU H-1 Hammer design shown here:

http://ampguts.realmofexcursion.com/TRU_H-1_Hammer/

My versions was not as pretty looking and obviously had diffierent electronics inside. But, it got the job done and did it nicely.

If you have only basic tools and level of experience you can make this work. It may not look pretty but will be functional. The better you are at fabrication, the more pleasing your results will be to look at.

The most important thing is to have a rock solid interface between power transistors and the heat sink. That, and have enough surface area to adequately draw the heat away from them. However, forced air cooling can help out there if need be.

Any other questions?

Ge0

 

[mjf 10+ year member]

The simplest route to obtaining a heat sink is to grab one intended for the amp boards you choose off ebay. They show up now and then. However, what is the fun in that? Building you own is not that difficult. However, you need some basic fabrication skills to pull it off.
For instance, the last amp I put together used two ZR1000 boards stacked vertically. I purchased surplus heatsink material from an old ADCOM home amp design for about $10 shipped. The remainder of the material you'll need to construct the heat sink and to fab mounting brackets can be purchased at your local Home Depot, Lowes, or hardware store. I made the bottom cover plate from aluminum sheet stock purchased from http://www.onlinemetals.com/. Cheap prices and quick service. The top cover plate was made of lexan.

The amp was modeled after the TRU H-1 Hammer design shown here:

http://ampguts.realmofexcursion.com/TRU_H-1_Hammer/

My versions was not as pretty looking and obviously had diffierent electronics inside. But, it got the job done and did it nicely.

If you have only basic tools and level of experience you can make this work. It may not look pretty but will be functional. The better you are at fabrication, the more pleasing your results will be to look at.

The most important thing is to have a rock solid interface between power transistors and the heat sink. That, and have enough surface area to adequately draw the heat away from them. However, forced air cooling can help out there if need be.

Any other questions?

Ge0

whats funny that you mention the tru

http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=359220

theres one for sale:laugh:

 

[Ge0 10+ year member]

whats funny that you mention the tru
http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=359220

theres one for sale:laugh:

That's one bad a$$ amp. However, it costs MUCH more than what you could build this sucker for //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif.

Ge0

 

[Saint211 10+ year member]

Hmm, if you still have these around when I have money to experiment with, I'll take a couple. I collect blown amps/ buy customer's blown amps intending to tinker with them/cannibalize them for parts. Wouldn't mind trying to fix one of these. Always nice to learn.

 

[mjf 10+ year member]

im debating whether im too lazy to get all this together, moreso since i dont know how much the end cost will be

 

[etznova 10+ year member]

hm this is very very interesting

hhmm i could use a decent amp for a semi active 3-way could use 6 channels but i have a truck so I would need an idea of how big it would be

hit me up with any ideas you might have

 

[dragnix 5,000+ posts]

Would there be any interest in these if I repaird them prior to shipment? You would still need to supply heatsink / chassis. But, building a 500W x8 amp would be do-able. Muah hah hah hah....
Ge0

I would be interested in getting a 2000watter and a 100x4, 200x2. You have anything like that?

 

[Ge0 10+ year member]

im debating whether im too lazy to get all this together, moreso since i dont know how much the end cost will be

Just throwing this up for a case example:

1.) ZR1000 board $35

2.) 8 power supply MOSFETS - $16 through Digikey

3.) 24 output transistors (TIP35C/TIP36C) - $30 through Mouser

4.) Two aluminum heatsink extrusions 2"x2"x36" - estimated $30 through multiple sources

5.) Clear plastic sheet for top cover plate - $9.50 through onlinemetals.com

6.) Aluminum bottom plate - $18.96 through online metals.com

7.) Buss bars needed to hold transistors against heatsink - $9.30 at online metals.com

8.) Aluminum sheet stock to fabricate end caps - $4.60 through online metals

9.) Transistor thermal insulator pads - 12"x12" free sample through Berquist. If you don't want to go the free sample route then you'll pay about $18.00 for more material than you'll need.

10.) Misc stuff like soldering supplies and RCA's $20

Worse case total is about $180 for a custom ZR1000. Mind you, this is a worse case which assumes all output transistors have blown. Although this is possible, it is highly unlikely. You could probably cut the estimate for transistors in half to be more realistic. Subtract $23 for a more realistic estimate (i.e. you don't need to replace all transistors)

For ZR600 or XS50 sized amps subtract about $30

For ZR360 sized amps subtract about $50

For ZR240 sized amps subtract about $60

If you want to build an amp with two (or more) main boards add the price of another board - 30% and count on another $20 for transistors.

I know this is confusing. That, and you aren't necessarily getting a powerful amp for next to nothing. But, you built it yourself, it beats going out and buying a new one by a long shot, and YOU BUILT IT YOURSELF!!!

 

[dragnix 5,000+ posts]

how much would it be if you repaired them prior to shipment? But if you don't have the time then i suppose i'll just have to go to Zed and have him do it //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

I want to buy some from you but I'll probably end up asking you a bunch of questions. Don't know if you would be down with that

 

[Ge0 10+ year member]

Hmm, if you still have these around when I have money to experiment with, I'll take a couple. I collect blown amps/ buy customer's blown amps intending to tinker with them/cannibalize them for parts. Wouldn't mind trying to fix one of these. Always nice to learn.

That's where I started. I've built or repaired over 200 amps. It was fun. But, now I have little kids and two jobs. I don't have time to play like I used to.

Ge0

 

[Ge0 10+ year member]

hm this is very very interesting
hhmm i could use a decent amp for a semi active 3-way could use 6 channels but i have a truck so I would need an idea of how big it would be

hit me up with any ideas you might have

What type of power do you need? I.E. channel configuration...

Each board needs about 2.5" clearence from top to bottom. If you start stacking them inside a chassis you need to take that into account. However, if you have more width than depth available you could always stack them end to end vs. on top of each other.

Oh, speaking of length. The length varies by amp board model.

I can take exact measurements when I get home tonight, but, a ZR1000 is about 28 inches long. A ZR240 is about 12 inches long.

Ge0

 

[Ge0 10+ year member]

I would be interested in getting a 2000watter and a 100x4, 200x2. You have anything like that?

Sorry if I mislead you. I don't have complete amps. At one time I used to construct them but unfortunately no longer have time in my life for this.

I am selling Kicker ZR, XS, and ZX series circuit boards. The boards I currently have are non functional. However, I am contemplating what it would take to repair them and sell them as functional refurbs.

I can't help you with 2000Wx1. I don't think you could successfully slave the outputs of two bridged ZR1000's together to drive a single load without risk of damaging the amps.

However, 100Wx4 / 200Wx2 is a piece of cake. You could do:

2 ZR600's under one chassis for approximately 150Wx4

2 ZR350's under one chassis for 90Wx4

Or, do a single ZR1000 if all you need is 250x2

Mind you, these are standard manufacturers ratings. These amps were under rated. Expect about 10% to 20% more power out of them that what they are rated for.