From 2 15" to 2 (or3) 10"?!?!?!

oxsign
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Heres the deal, I'm redoing the 4link for the rear of my blazer. Because of the new sheet metal dementions will give me a little (a lot) less room, I was thinking of selling my 15" rl-p's. The problem is I LIKE BIG BASS!!!!!!!!!! LOL. What would you guys recomend in a 10" subs (thinking of 2 or 3) to come close to giving me that kinda bass? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

 
Sorry I forgot to say mention something. I would like to continue useing that amp I currently have now. It's a Power acoustik 3000. So the 10" subs will need to be able to handle big power in a some what small box (5cubes max). //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
Give us a price range an how much power you're going to be running and we can tell ya

:)

If you've got the money and you've got the power, you can probably outdo those two 15's with two nice 10's

 
$$$ will depend on how much I can get for the 2 15" I have now. I'm thinking after all is said and done maybe about $400-$500. As far as power The PA3000 is rated at 2400 @1ohm, realisticlly maybe 1800-2000w. What to the BLT's run, and does someone have a link? Thanks guys. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif

 
You could do one 15btl, 5 cubes will be plenty for it

and so will that amp //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 
i agree, just go w/ a single 15 if you like the lows, cause the 10's won't be able to dip down like a 15 would. i say gget a 15 btl and nice ported box and that should be good

 
Never heard BTL's, but I would do the 3 10's, yes bigger will tend to go a lil lower like I said on a previous thread, but I don't think it will be THAT much.

And I think that the overall saved space is worth it.

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/2thumbs.gif.fdc3ba010dbb42b61704534b46d02fe4.gif

 
Bigger does not go lower. Bigger will have more displacement / SPL, but depth extension depends on mostly the system. You'll likely never hear a true subwoofer in a car anyway. True being that is actually replications subsonic material with linear SPL. (below 20Hz)

You're not going to match two RL-p 15's with pretty much any two or three 10 drivers on the market. You're giving up so much displacement and the RL-p's already have pretty high xmax. Just to give you an idea: Three 10" drivers have only about 10% more cone area than a single 15. Two 15's have virtually double the cone area and therefore you're going to need double the displacement (xmax) to achieve to match the dual 15’s.

At maximum excursion, the RL-p can do a pretty clean 2" p2p stroke. I don't think there is a 4" p2p driver on the market. Secondly the RL-p already has a pretty beefy coil so it can maintain high excursion for a long time. My point being, sometimes you can improve output if you're driver is running into a compression state. Going from a 3” vc to a 4” vc or 3” vc from a 2” vc at teh same xmax is a noticeable improvement because long term compression is less, but unfortunately your rl-p already has a large overhung 3" vc, and you wont find a larger one by any substantial margin in a 10" version.

The other thing to consider is that you are going with a smaller box. When you half the box volume, you need four time the motor in your driver to make up for it. This is why box volume is critical for spl and you can't get it back very easy. There is really no physically way You're going to get the same SPL with a smaller box and half the displacement.

You can just put the 15’s into a smaller sealed box. They will work quite well in sealed boxes and they don’t have to be too large to get linear bass to 30Hz in a car.

 
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