Four 8"s for extremely tight bass?

but you have small compression drivers, sir. Does that worry you? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wow.gif.23d729408e9177caa2a0ed6a2ba6588e.gif Small? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 
I remember old fosgates 1989........ the 8 inch sub would have the same magnet size and motor as the 18 inch sub, would these have the same tansient response?

Did you read the link to Dan Wiggins tech article yet?

BTW, a lot of companies did this and still do this

 
as said upgrade your mids. most notably, GET some mids. most likely you got some coaxials, and at best a pair of components. but components are meant to handle - at MOST like 200~20k (with tweets and mids)

so go buy yourself some DEDICATED midbass before you change your woof. get a 2channel amp that does like 150~200x2 and run a pair of MID BASS SPEAKERS. then your punch will increase.

midbass = doors

components = kicks

sub = boot\trunk\rear(front middle if you can ^_^ )

amp everything, no HU power here mang.

myself, 8" midbass door speakers, 2x15x13ish HLCD tweets ^_^, 15" adire tempest. all amped, with the CORRECT crossover points and EQ (nothing is installed yet)

now, a sub SHOULD be crossed over prolly 20hz higher than what you have. for a 10, the resonant freq of the speaker should have no problem playing that high. my SE 10 did a wonderful job of crossing over at 80ish hz in a ported box.

*crossover at the right points (bandpass mids)

*get some dedicated midbass

*amp everything

those are my suggestions.

toodles. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 
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