Flush mounting my H/U

[Frraksurred 10+ year member]

I took my H/U out becuz the factory location is angled backwards and close to the top of the dash making it a pain to get CD's in and out. Also the upper dash mounts broke and it was rattling. I've been wanting to mount it some where else so I figured what better time.

Now I'm trying to flush mount it where my slide out ash tray was. The opening is just wide enough for the radio to fit with some room above and below. My question is how do I mount it? The area is again sloped (the other direction) but I want to keep the H/U level. I know some of you guys have experience mounting H/U's without instal kits so throw me some ideas, tips whatever might help. Right now I have a hole and my dash and no tunes. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif The best idea I can come up with is using strap iron from dash to H/U, but that is so ghetto. I guess if I do that I could shape a cover from wood and foam or body filler and cover it with vinyl to cover it up. Either way, my real problem is getting it mounted solidly. I NEED my music!!! I have a 45 minute drive to and from work each day (and that's just for starters)!

Anyway, any help you could provide would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

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[Steven 10+ year member]

I would make a mounting kit for the front out of wood, or fibre-glass.

For the back I would support it with a metal strap inside the dash. You won't see it and it will help with grounding.

That should secure the deck enough that it won't rattle or skip. You can paint or cover the front side so it looks good.

To make it look flush - just design your bracket so that it holds the front of the deck even with the rest of the dash.

 

[Frraksurred 10+ year member]

Well I got my H/U moved to a better location (old ashtray location). It's mounted plenty solid and actually looks pretty good. I can read the display now, forgot what that was like, and I can get my CD's in and out without having to bend or scratch them. You can't hardly see it untill your sitting in the car. Then when I turn the car on the face pops out and tilts away from you. The first time it did that I caught myself grinnin' like a 9 yr old who just figured out what he's getting for Christmas. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif Now all I have to do is glass a trim panel and vinyl it to match my dash and I'm golden.

I put the factory deck back where it belongs, only I want to wire it to power so the buttons and clock light up (giving the appearance that it works and throwing would be thieves off). I was curious if anyone else has done this and how they pulled it off. I 'spose I could wire the power, ground and illumination leads of two wiring harnesses together. The Alpine I have is wired straight to the batt and grounded to chasis, so I figured I'd use the unused wires from that harness to power the factory deck. Still, suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

[CarAudioAddict 10+ year member]

All you need to hook up on the factory deck is the Batt, Ign, Ground, And Any illumination wires. Obviously, since you really won't be using it, the speaker, power antenna, remote (if applicable), and any other wires aren't needed.

Just hook up the Batt, Ign, Ground, And illumination wires and you should be in business

 

[Frraksurred 10+ year member]

All you need to hook up on the factory deck is the Batt, Ign, Ground, And Any illumination wires. Obviously, since you really won't be using it, the speaker, power antenna, remote (if applicable), and any other wires aren't needed.

I 'spose I could wire the power, ground and illumination leads of two wiring harnesses together

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif Thanks.