Finally - I have chosen eight (8) finalists to drive my Polk Audio 6.5" - Which One?

[SmokinBarrel 10+ year member]

Okay, after many many hours searching online, reviewing, etc... I have narrowed my search to the following eight (8) finalists. If you had to narrow the field down to three (3) amps, which amps would be your choice?

Honestly, I am exhausted, and I can't even see straight. As well as not being able to make up my mind. I think I have fairly good list, but I cannot pull the trigger, please help me narrow the field.

My system:

No sub at this time. If I add a sub later, it will be powered by a separate mono amp.

The amp I choose below will power 1 pair Polk Audio MM651um (100w RMS to 200w Max, 4 ohm)

Keep in mind while making your choice:

a. Best Value

b. Reputation

c. Quality

d. Sound Quality

e. I know most below are car amps, but the amp will be mounted in a dry area.

f. All are 2 Channel

g. My thinking, Class D (2 Channel) is easier on Boat batteries??

The final eight (8) are:

$219 Alpine PDX-2.150 (4 ohms 150w x 2 RMS) (Class D)

$218 SoundStream REF 2.370 (4 ohms 110w x 2 RMS) (Class A/B)

$209 AudioBahn A4002J (4 ohms 125w x 2 RMS) (Class A/B)

$181 AudioBahn A2002J (4 ohms 75w x 2 RMS) (Class A/B)

$150 Rockford Fosgate Punch P400.2 (4 ohms 100w x 2 RMS) (Class A/B)

$131 Diamond Audio 300.2 (4 ohms 100w x 2 RMS) (Class A/B) (Refurb)

$119 US Amps XT-800.2v3 (4 ohms 100w x 2 RMS) (Class DE)

$110 Soundstream MA340.2 (4 ohms 85w x 2 RMS) (Class A/B) (Marine AMP)

Click to read more...

 

[SicAudio 5,000+ posts]

US amps

Alpine

rest are meh... the audiobahn are horrible.. they have the nickname audio"bunk" for a good reason...

 

[ChevyRidinLow]

audiobahn was bad before it went out of business now i guess alphasonik bought it and now its their stuff disguised as audiobahn which is like so terrible just saying it should create a worm hole and s uck the earth inside of it. but anyway thats just what i heard from a former dealer.

 

[ChevyRidinLow]

watch out for the rockfords too, they do well over rated power, mainly the power series but punch too

 

[whitedragon551 5,000+ posts]

The final eight (8) are:

$219 Alpine PDX-2.150 (4 ohms 150w x 2 RMS) (Class D)

$218 SoundStream REF 2.370 (4 ohms 110w x 2 RMS) (Class A/B)

$209 AudioBahn A4002J (4 ohms 125w x 2 RMS) (Class A/B)

$181 AudioBahn A2002J (4 ohms 75w x 2 RMS) (Class A/B)

$150 Rockford Fosgate Punch P400.2 (4 ohms 100w x 2 RMS) (Class A/B)

$131 Diamond Audio 300.2 (4 ohms 100w x 2 RMS) (Class A/B) (Refurb)

$119 US Amps XT-800.2v3 (4 ohms 100w x 2 RMS) (Class DE)

$110 Soundstream MA340.2 (4 ohms 85w x 2 RMS) (Class A/B) (Marine AMP)

The only 2 amps I would consider are the Alpine PDX and the Diamond Audio. Those 2 amps are going to put out the cleanest power and do more than rated than any of the other amps listed.

Audiobahn is garbage as is the US Amps XTerminator series. I wouldnt touch a US Amps after their buyout. Ive read the SS Ref's are ok, but not like their older counterparts.

 

[SmokinBarrel 10+ year member]

The ninth finalist would be Arc Audio FD2200? (100w x 2 RMS) Class AB

 

[whitedragon551 5,000+ posts]

The ninth finalist would be Arc Audio FD2200? (100w x 2 RMS) Class AB

Then thats my third choice out of the ones you listed.

1. Diamond Audio

2. Arc Audio

3. Alpine PDX

Another amp you can check out is the Clarion APX amps. They are designed by Robert Zeff and they just so happen to have a 2 channel marine version.

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-CLARION-APX290M-2-CHANNEL-MARINE-BOAT-AMPLIFIER-AMP-/290521812496?pt=Car_Amplifiers&hash=item43a4730e10

 

[matt_bennett05 10+ year member]

The only 2 amps I would consider are the Alpine PDX and the Diamond Audio. Those 2 amps are going to put out the cleanest power and do more than rated than any of the other amps listed.
Audiobahn is garbage as is the US Amps XTerminator series. I wouldnt touch a US Amps after their buyout. Ive read the SS Ref's are ok, but not like their older counterparts.

THIS! Out of the choices you have given.

 

[SmokinBarrel 10+ year member]

Okay, down to the final six .... trying to make it a bit harder for you guys. I have added several others based on recommendations if you could pick 3, I'll make a decision from there:

$219 Alpine PDX-2.150 (4 ohms 150w x 2 RMS) (Class D)

$180 Arc Audio FD2200 (100w x 2 RMS) Class AB

$131 Diamond Audio 300.2 (4 ohms 100w x 2 RMS) (Class A/B) (Refurb)

$125 Clarion APX290M (4 ohms 90w x 2 RMS) (Class AB) (MARINE AMP)

$119 US Amps XT-800.2v3 (4 ohms 100w x 2 RMS) (Class DE)

$99 Audiopipe 2x1000w (4 ohms 100w x 2 RMS) (Class A/B) (MARINE AMP)

Based on readings, here is my vote:

Audiopipe (A/B) (I am really liking this unit - specs!!)

Arc Audio (A/B)

Alpine (D)

US Amps (DE)

My Hail Mary would be JL Audio M200/2 (Class D). But, I heard JL is overrated?

 

[whitedragon551 5,000+ posts]

Okay, down to the final six .... trying to make it a bit harder for you guys. I have added several others based on recommendations if you could pick 3, I'll make a decision from there:
$219 Alpine PDX-2.150 (4 ohms 150w x 2 RMS) (Class D)

$180 Arc Audio FD2200 (100w x 2 RMS) Class AB

$131 Diamond Audio 300.2 (4 ohms 100w x 2 RMS) (Class A/B) (Refurb)

$125 Clarion APX290M (4 ohms 90w x 2 RMS) (Class AB) (MARINE AMP)

$119 US Amps XT-800.2v3 (4 ohms 100w x 2 RMS) (Class DE)

$99 Audiopipe 2x1000w (4 ohms 100w x 2 RMS) (Class A/B) (MARINE AMP)

Based on readings, here is my vote:

Audiopipe (A/B) (I am really liking this unit - specs!!)

Arc Audio (A/B)

Alpine (D)

US Amps (DE)

My Hail Mary would be JL Audio M200/2 (Class D). But, I heard JL is overrated?

Audiopipe is forum boner, but because of the power to price ratio, not because it will do power cleanly. Again the PDX, Arc, Diamond, and Clarion are my top picks. You cant go wrong with any of them.

The issue people have with JL is that the price to performance can be beat. With JL you pay for the price tag. There are several brands out there that put out just as clean of power, just as much under rated, and alot cheaper.

 

[whitedragon551 5,000+ posts]

^ Dont click the rick roll link there.

 

[SmokinBarrel 10+ year member]

Will a capacitor help within my audio system on my boat? Maybe more so if I get a Class A/B versus Class D?

 

[bugflipper 10+ year member]

AP and US should be purged. Neither are on the level of the rest of your revised list. In their place could go ppi.

JL, nope, quite a few with cleaner power cheaper out there.

From your list arc, diamond and alpine in that order. PPI is a solid sq amp. The sedona line has mid level performance at an entry level price. It would fall 4th on the list, they are rated from best sq to worst. Worst is not really a fair assessment for the sedona. AQ gets tossed around quite a bit on this site. PPI is cleaner than an AQ.

 

[SmokinBarrel 10+ year member]

Okay Bug, I am turning up the volume on ya here! I decided to do a little more searching before making a choice. The below list is THE final list. I know there are many good amps, but I think I have widdled it down to what I think I'd be happy with. So, if you or other 'verteran amp enthusiasts' could give me your 2 or 3 final recommendations based on these final choices, I am ready to be done with this. I will also post up my choice.

$219 Alpine PDX-2.150 (4 ohms 150w x 2 RMS) (Class D)

$180 Arc Audio FD2200 (100w x 2 RMS) Class AB

$131 Diamond Audio 300.2 (4 ohms 100w x 2 RMS) (Class A/B) (Refurb)

$125 Zapco i-force 2100 Car Amplifier (4 ohms 100w x 2 RMS) (Class AB)

$125 Phoenix Gold Xenon 100.2 (4 ohms 100w x 2 RMS) (Class AB)

$120 Phoenix Gold Ryval V1502 (4 ohms 150w x x RMS) (Class A/B)

Remember, my speakers are rated at 100w RMS - 200w Max. Would the v1502 at 150w per channel be to much? I am thinking best to stay in the area of 100w - 125w RMS. Or, to closely match the RMS of the speakers, right?

 

[gunz4me2 10+ year member]

Will a capacitor help within my audio system on my boat? Maybe more so if I get a Class A/B versus Class D?

Nope, a capacitor is useless unless you have a power wire generated AC line noise, then they help.

Also, the only area a class D amplifier is generally more efficient than a class AB amplifier is at low volume due to the class d's ability to switch the power supply. Current draw is current draw, no matter what your amplifier topology is. Just remember this phrase, it takes power (current) to make power (watts) and ponder on it for a while. Maybe you will solve the riddle.