Engine heat and your power wire.

[inferno1985 10+ year member]

Noticed that my engine is very hot. Just the bay. For the last 6 years I've had my battery in my trunk. I have a new car and again now my battery is in the engine bay . I feel like this is very had. By battery is all the way against my wheel well. I have the power wire routed from the battery to 1 ft then fused and then ran from that through a hole and ran inside my wheel well through the door and into the grommet that goes from your door frame to your door than gold the wires for your window buttons speakers and etc. It then ran down my floor boards to the trunk. With that being said the wire that is actually in the engine bay is very hot. I'm worried I'm losing some output from the long power wire and the heat my engine generates. Does anyone have any input. Only about 1 ft and a half is actually in the engine bay. It's then ran into the wheel well/ fender basically out side the engine. Does any one else have problems with the waging heat and three power wires performance? I dmm'd. At the alt. Got a 14.6 while car was hot. Dmm'd at the battery got the same. At yhem fuse got the same and them dmm'd at the amp and got 1 volt lower 13.6 pretty annoyed.

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[inferno1985 10+ year member]

Also. Today as I was playing my system like normal. My volt meter just shut off. The amps probably shut off as well and my volt meter came back on but was hardly lit up. Like it was receiving very low voltage. And it read "LO" after a second or two. The volt meter would gain some more juice and be a bit more noticeable a few times I would do this. And then it would all the sudden be very bright and quickly read 12.4 and them bam jumps up to 13.6 if I again played the system it would do this all over again. I've had the system installed for again few weeks. I actually tuned down the head unit settings and amo just a tad bit so I know I'm not over working it. It's been left alone with tape on my knows for 6 years. Not sure if chevy controlled pm alt is shutting down the system. But I've never had a problem like this ever. I've ran down my battery before a few years ago that when I stopped playing my system and shut my car off it was dead instantly and never showed a "LO" on the volt meter.

 

[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

you're losing voltage because of your ground not your power wire

id bet if you post the positive lead on the amp input and the negative on the battery post rather than the amp ground itd be the same voltage

 

[inferno1985 10+ year member]

Hmm. I don't have long leads tho or I'd try. I tested my ground also with dmm. Got like 0.3 ohms you still think is a bad ground ?

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

Wire loom.

This will help prevent heating up the wire.

 

[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

Hmm. I don't have long leads tho or I'd try. I tested my ground also with dmm. Got like 0.3 ohms you still think is a bad ground ?

it's not necessarily that you made a bad ground, its just my experience that grounds in vehicles are extraordinarily bad for mono amps

the heat from your engine bay isnt enough to cause significant problems

 

[inferno1985 10+ year member]

well i figured it out. **** anl fuse holder. where it tightens down it must have not been tight enough. the fuse was discolored and a little bubbly itself. so snipped wire back and replaced with new anl fuse and works just fine now. im def not liking this fuse holder. i will probably be going to buy a much better build quality one this weekend. its just to meh and cheap. yes it works but just the way it is made makes me weary.