noob with an RS
10+ year member
i poop on you
hey my buddy came to me with a problem where the fuse in the engine bay kept blowing everytime he put one in. so i knew right away there was a power short to ground somewhere in his system. so i took my DMM and after testing various points, i found the problem to be IN the amplifier itself. when i took the DMM leads to the negative and positive terminals of the amplifier, i got a beeping sound from my DMM, confirming there was continuity between the two. so apparently, there is a short between the + and - terminals INSIDE the amp. also, if i test the speaker outputs of the amplifier, i would get continuity if i touch the LEFT positive and RIGHT positive with the dmm. i would also get continuity if i touched the RIGHT negative with the LEFT negative. weird? well anyway i replaced that amp with one of my kenwood amps and everything powers on OK now and the fuse is no longer blowing.. but now we have a different problem..
my buddys got a crappy *** ghetto Bandpass box and in it is a single 10 inch w6.. the first version i believe. i took the W6 out to check its voice coils to se what kind of configuration it had. well when i check the resistance on each voice coil i'm getting about 0.5 ohms on each side.. one side reads 0.4 ohms and the other voice coil reads 0.6 ohms.. is this subwoofer defective or does JL really make a dual HALF-ohm version of the 10-inch w6?? the weird thing is i took the sub out of the box to test it and it barely even moved. i wired it in series to give it a nominal load of 1 ohm and hooked it up to the monoblock in my car... it barely moved when powered.. it was getting around 400 watts but was BARELY moving. my idMAX would've definitley been audible with that much power. i cranked the gain on my monoblock to about halfway to see if it would get louder but it was still barely moving. so i turned everything off wondering why it barely even moved (i was expecting the w6 to BOOM) .. then i noticed the voice coil smell. not good. well the resisitance still shows about 0.5 ohm on each voice coil still so im guessing the sub isnt blown.. or is it?? someone please give me some info on this my friends looking at me like i mightve blown his sub //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif
could the amplifier power shorting to ground within the amplifier (as explaiined above) damage the subwoofer and lead to this subwoofer problem?
my buddys got a crappy *** ghetto Bandpass box and in it is a single 10 inch w6.. the first version i believe. i took the W6 out to check its voice coils to se what kind of configuration it had. well when i check the resistance on each voice coil i'm getting about 0.5 ohms on each side.. one side reads 0.4 ohms and the other voice coil reads 0.6 ohms.. is this subwoofer defective or does JL really make a dual HALF-ohm version of the 10-inch w6?? the weird thing is i took the sub out of the box to test it and it barely even moved. i wired it in series to give it a nominal load of 1 ohm and hooked it up to the monoblock in my car... it barely moved when powered.. it was getting around 400 watts but was BARELY moving. my idMAX would've definitley been audible with that much power. i cranked the gain on my monoblock to about halfway to see if it would get louder but it was still barely moving. so i turned everything off wondering why it barely even moved (i was expecting the w6 to BOOM) .. then i noticed the voice coil smell. not good. well the resisitance still shows about 0.5 ohm on each voice coil still so im guessing the sub isnt blown.. or is it?? someone please give me some info on this my friends looking at me like i mightve blown his sub //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif
could the amplifier power shorting to ground within the amplifier (as explaiined above) damage the subwoofer and lead to this subwoofer problem?
