Distro Blocks?

[Arya]

Hey guys, I'm sure you're tired of answering my question, but I got one last one(maybe). I don't understand distro blocks, like what to look for, what I need, what brands are the best, etc.

I'll be running two amps, so two power two amps with one amp install kit I need one distro block, right? BUT do I need a power or ground distro block? or both?

Someone told me that I need one that's 2 4ga in, and 4 4ga out, is that right?

Is there anything else I need? Any specific brands or recommendations?

Here are the two amps I plan on running-

MB Quart ONX1.2000D 2000W ONYX Series Class D Monoblock

MB Quart ONX2.100 400W ONYX Series 2-Channel Class A/B

Thanks.

Click to read more...

 

[bbeljefe]

You'll need a power distribution block that will accept the power wire from the battery and the two power wires going to the amps. For that 2000 watt amp, you should have a 1/0 power wire coming from the battery and going to the amp and a 4 gauge going to the small amp. For that, you need a distro block that will accept two 1/0 cables and one 4 gauge cable. Grounds can go from each amplifier to a good grounding point, terminated with ring lugs.

If you plan to run a second battery where the amps are (which you should), then you don't need a distro block because you can terminate both amp leads with ring lugs and connect them directly to the battery (with appropriate fusing between the battery and amps).

 

[Arya]

You'll need a power distribution block that will accept the power wire from the battery and the two power wires going to the amps. For that 2000 watt amp, you should have a 1/0 power wire coming from the battery and going to the amp and a 4 gauge going to the small amp. For that, you need a distro block that will accept two 1/0 cables and one 4 gauge cable. Grounds can go from each amplifier to a good grounding point, terminated with ring lugs.
If you plan to run a second battery where the amps are (which you should), then you don't need a distro block because you can terminate both amp leads with ring lugs and connect them directly to the battery (with appropriate fusing between the battery and amps).

I probably can't afford a second battery.

I was told to run 4ga wire from my battery to the two amps, then 12ga from the amps to the speakers/amps. Will that not work? I was going to get this amp wire kit-

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KOL-AK4

 

---------- Post added at 09:54 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:54 PM ----------

 

You'll need a power distribution block that will accept the power wire from the battery and the two power wires going to the amps. For that 2000 watt amp, you should have a 1/0 power wire coming from the battery and going to the amp and a 4 gauge going to the small amp. For that, you need a distro block that will accept two 1/0 cables and one 4 gauge cable. Grounds can go from each amplifier to a good grounding point, terminated with ring lugs.
If you plan to run a second battery where the amps are (which you should), then you don't need a distro block because you can terminate both amp leads with ring lugs and connect them directly to the battery (with appropriate fusing between the battery and amps).

I probably can't afford a second battery.

I was told to run 4ga wire from my battery to the two amps, then 12ga from the amps to the speakers/amps. Will that not work? I was going to get this amp wire kit-

4 Gauge OFC Amplifier Amp Installation Wiring Kit

 

[Fi-Chipmunk]

Don't know who told you to run 4ga, but with the amps listed it looks as if there will be around 2200wrms overall.

4 gauge wire stops being useful around 1500 watts. To answer your question yes it will work, but it wont be very efficient and will likely strain your amplifiers and vehicle electrical system.

It would be wise to invest in at least a $100 secondary battery such as the XS Power d975 or d750, purchase 1/0 from the website you listed, enough to cover the full positive run from front battery to rear battery as well as the "big 3" under your hood. Then do as suggested above with just running wires from amps off rear battery using whatever the amp takes, and proper fusing in place.

Heres a pic to help describe distro blocks. These are 1 1/0 in and 2 1/0 out which can also hold 4ga which is whats pictured.

 

[bbeljefe]

I probably can't afford a second battery.
I was told to run 4ga wire from my battery to the two amps, then 12ga from the amps to the speakers/amps. Will that not work? I was going to get this amp wire kit-

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KOL-AK4

 

---------- Post added at 09:54 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:54 PM ----------

 

The sub amp you've chosen has 1/0 inputs and it needs 1/0 cable run to it. You can run the mid/hi amp off the same 1/0 your sub amp is on but one 4 gauge for both is not sufficient, even for the sub amp only.

 

As for the extra battery, that's needed as well for the power you're planning to run. You don't have to run expensive AGM batteries but you do need the additional current capacity of a second battery for that setup... even with the Dayton subs.

 

You can get by without a second battery to begin with and, you could use a capacitor. But a quality cap costs about what a wet cell battery does so I would opt for the second battery even if I had to forego buying it until funds allow.

 

And for speaker wiring, you can use 14 or 16 gauge for the mids and highs and if the sub wiring isn't really long, 16 will work there, although 12 would be better.

 

But ultimately, you can never get the maximum power or efficiently an amplifier is capable of unless you send it enough voltage and current for it to do its job... and Maxxsonics didn't put the more expensive 1/0 terminals on that 2000 watt amp because they had some laying around. ;-)

 

[Arya]

Don't know who told you to run 4ga, but with the amps listed it looks as if there will be around 2200wrms overall.
4 gauge wire stops being useful around 1500 watts. To answer your question yes it will work, but it wont be very efficient and will likely strain your amplifiers and vehicle electrical system.

It would be wise to invest in at least a $100 secondary battery such as the XS Power d975 or d750, purchase 1/0 from the website you listed, enough to cover the full positive run from front battery to rear battery as well as the "big 3" under your hood. Then do as suggested above with just running wires from amps off rear battery using whatever the amp takes, and proper fusing in place.

Heres a pic to help describe distro blocks. These are 1 1/0 in and 2 1/0 out which can also hold 4ga which is whats pictured.

I probably can't afford a second battery.
I was told to run 4ga wire from my battery to the two amps, then 12ga from the amps to the speakers/amps. Will that not work? I was going to get this amp wire kit-

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KOL-AK4

 

---------- Post added at 09:54 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:54 PM ----------

 

The sub amp you've chosen has 1/0 inputs and it needs 1/0 cable run to it. You can run the mid/hi amp off the same 1/0 your sub amp is on but one 4 gauge for both is not sufficient, even for the sub amp only.

 

As for the extra battery, that's needed as well for the power you're planning to run. You don't have to run expensive AGM batteries but you do need the additional current capacity of a second battery for that setup... even with the Dayton subs.

 

You can get by without a second battery to begin with and, you could use a capacitor. But a quality cap costs about what a wet cell battery does so I would opt for the second battery even if I had to forego buying it until funds allow.

 

And for speaker wiring, you can use 14 or 16 gauge for the mids and highs and if the sub wiring isn't really long, 16 will work there, although 12 would be better.

 

But ultimately, you can never get the maximum power or efficiently an amplifier is capable of unless you send it enough voltage and current for it to do its job... and Maxxsonics didn't put the more expensive 1/0 terminals on that 2000 watt amp because they had some laying around. ;-)

 

I'll look into the second battery, but if I don't go with a second battery for now, what distro block would you recommend (not sure what brand is best)?

 

Would this wire suffice for a big 3, and for the amps? Copper Clad Aluminum (if so what fuse do I need

 

EDIT: So I forgot to mention, the car already has a new battery in it, I'm not sure of the size(too dark to check). I have a few pictures on my phone for reference of the car, and I can make out it's a Energizer battery from Sam's Club, but Sam's Clubs website is down so I can't specifically say which one it is. How much power would the battery have to be putting out for my audio setup to work?

 

EDIT2: So is this correct?

0ga: Battery-Big Amp

0ga: Battery-Small Amp

12ga: Small Amp-Speakers

0ga: Big Amp-Subs

 

[bbeljefe]

Stinger makes good distro blocks but frankly, all we're talking about is a hunk of brass with holes bored in it.

For audio systems, you need ~55Ah of battery for every 1Kw of power. So for 2500 watts, ~140Ah.

And no, wiring isn't correct.

You need 1/0 to the amp location, which can branch at a distribution block or battery and be sent on 1/0 to the sub amp and on 4 gauge to the small amp. Speakers can be wired with 16 gauge but I recommend 12 gauge on the subs and since there's not a huge cost difference, it's just as easy to buy a spool of 12 gauge so you know you'll have plenty of wire.

If you'll get some measurements of your runs, I'll build you an amp kit with enough 1/0, 4 gauge and speaker wire to get you going... with ring terminals preinstalled.

 

[Fi-Chipmunk]

Stinger makes good distro blocks but frankly, all we're talking about is a hunk of brass with holes bored in it.
For audio systems, you need ~55Ah of battery for every 1Kw of power. So for 2500 watts, ~140Ah.

And no, wiring isn't correct.

You need 1/0 to the amp location, which can branch at a distribution block or battery and be sent on 1/0 to the sub amp and on 4 gauge to the small amp. Speakers can be wired with 16 gauge but I recommend 12 gauge on the subs and since there's not a huge cost difference, it's just as easy to buy a spool of 12 gauge so you know you'll have plenty of wire.

If you'll get some measurements of your runs, I'll build you an amp kit with enough 1/0, 4 gauge and speaker wire to get you going... with ring terminals preinstalled.

I'd take that offer if I were u OP.

 

[Arya]

Stinger makes good distro blocks but frankly, all we're talking about is a hunk of brass with holes bored in it.
For audio systems, you need ~55Ah of battery for every 1Kw of power. So for 2500 watts, ~140Ah.

And no, wiring isn't correct.

You need 1/0 to the amp location, which can branch at a distribution block or battery and be sent on 1/0 to the sub amp and on 4 gauge to the small amp. Speakers can be wired with 16 gauge but I recommend 12 gauge on the subs and since there's not a huge cost difference, it's just as easy to buy a spool of 12 gauge so you know you'll have plenty of wire.

If you'll get some measurements of your runs, I'll build you an amp kit with enough 1/0, 4 gauge and speaker wire to get you going... with ring terminals preinstalled.

Just went outside to check the battery, and it's putting 625 cranking amps, and 495 cold cranking amps, if I do a big 3 would that be enough?

How would I go about getting measurements? Just run a tape measure from the back of my car to the front? Would it also be enough to do a Big 3? Lastly how much would it cost?

Thanks.

 

[bbeljefe]

Standard amp kits and big three are 60.00 & 45.00 or, 100.00 for both. However, you're needing 2 pair of RCAs and enough speaker wire for 4 mid/hi speakers and your subs (I think) so, let's see if we can get it nailed down to exactly what you need and I can price accordingly so you don't have to go to multiple suppliers to put it all together.

And your battery is probably ~60Ah but I noticed you've started another thread about running one sub and only 500 watts so.... it would be a good idea to settle on gear before looking for amp kits, et al as you might only need a 4 gauge kit once it's all said and done. ;-)