Did Big 3 and lights still dimming...what's next?

[loknload 10+ year member]

I have a 2010 Toyota Tundra with the tow package so it has a 150 amp alternator and, supposedly, a heavy duty battery. I installed pretty much all of my equipment out of my former 2008 Toyota Tacoma with the exception that I'm running the stock head unit with an Audio Control LC6i instead of the Alpine CDA-9887 that I was running in my Tacoma. My amps consist of an Alpine MRP-F450 (70x4 RMS) and a Soundstream RUB1.1000D (currently running 800 RMS @ 2 ohms). They're running Polk Audio Momo components in the front doors and stock speakers just for a little rear fill in the rear doors and two JL 10W1's in a ported box. Like I said, the only differences from my Tacoma to what I have now is the stock head unit and LC6i and that I'm running a ported enclosure, whereas, I was running sealed in the Tacoma.

My lights never dimmed once in my Tacoma and it had a smaller 130 amp alternator. I got all of this installed in my Tundra and immediately noticed my lights dimming when it was turned up moderately loud. I am running 4 gauge power and ground from distribution blocks. The first thing I did was checked my grounding point and made sure all of the paint was removed and bolted it back up. I then cleared all the paint from under the factory battery to chassis ground. It got better but the lights still dimmed. I had some 4 gauge and terminals left over so I did the big 3 by just adding 4 gauge to the factory wiring from the battery positive to the alternator, battery negative to the chassis (different grounding point than factory), and engine to chassis (different grounding point than factory). I also went back and checked my gains. The four channel has the gain about half way on the fronts and about a quarter on the rears. The sub amp has the gain just below half (set with a meter) and the remote bass control is about a quarter. My lights still dim when it's cranked up.

So my question is what's next? A 150 amp alternator should be plenty for there amps. In fact, I would've thought that my Tundra would have handled it better than the Tacoma with the stiffer charging system but I guess not. Do I try a battery next? Something like an Optima yellow top? The free and easy upgrades are over with and I don't want to just throw money at it and not solve the problem so I need some advice. Thanks.

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[JoeK 10+ year member]

Do a real big 3 with 1/0 first.

 

[loknload 10+ year member]

Do a real big 3 with 1/0 first.

In the back of my mind I knew somebody was going to say that. I thought maybe the 4 gauge in addition to the stock wiring (which is also 4 gauge on this truck) would be enough, plus, I had it laying around. Guess maybe I need to get a hold of RAM_Designs and order a kit.

 

[gckless 5,000+ posts]

Despite your alternator being larger in this vehicle, you may have much less overhead depending on what this vehicle is drawing compared to the last. 4ga OFC is commonly rated to handle about 150A, and it's my guess that the wiring. What are your amps fused at? 1/0ga will help a bit, but it's not the only problem. Do you know what kind of voltages you're getting at the amp in back and the battery in front?

 

[JoiNt- 10+ year member]

adding wire to stock doesnt mean the current will travel thru both wires and give alot of smooth flow, the current will flow through the path of least resistance, meaning doubling wire wont do anything and 4 gauge may not cut what your pulling, take note the other electronics in the vehical drawing from ur alt other then ur two amps.

first

bigger wire for big 3, AGM deep cycle batt under hood possible smaller one in the back (get the AGM deep cycle and put ur current batt thats under the hood in the back is a good idea) , see how u stand, mabey even running 1/0 all the way to ur amp may be needed

just some suggestions

 

[40oz 10+ year member]

adding wire to stock doesnt mean the current will travel thru both wires and give alot of smooth flow, the current will flow through the path of least resistance, meaning doubling wire wont do anything and 4 gauge may not cut what your pulling.

Doubling wire wont do anything? Sure its not ideal but it will definitely do "something". It will flow through the wire with least resistance until the heat builds up and the resistance in the other wire is lower.

 

[maylar 10+ year member]

Put a voltmeter directly across the alternator and bump your system so the lights dim. Measure from the output terminal to the metal case of the alternator, that bypasses the wiring and big 3. If the meter dips significantly the problem is a weak alternator. Best to use an old analog voltmeter (VOM) for this since a dmm responds slowly and the numbers will bounce around.

If the voltage is steady at the alt, move the meter neg lead to the battery. Now you're including voltage drop in the battery to engine wire. Then check from alt to body. Finally check across the battery itself. Each measurement adds another of the big 3 wires to the equasion and you can deduce which one(s) need to be beefed up.

 

[chargdbassbuick 10+ year member]

i would use ofc wire, helped with my voltage drop / never going back to cca

 

[JoeK 10+ year member]

In the back of my mind I knew somebody was going to say that. I thought maybe the 4 gauge in addition to the stock wiring (which is also 4 gauge on this truck) would be enough, plus, I had it laying around. Guess maybe I need to get a hold of RAM_Designs and order a kit.

Well, you can always do 4 runs of 4AWG... that equals one run of 1/0; but 1/0 is preferrable