Cutout hole for 12" Type R ??? *PICS*

cutout is 10.9"
Thanks for the info //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

No, it is not a good idea to paint the port that way before putting it together. Wood glue bonds wood to wood, not wood to paint. You don't really have a bond if you're gluing sealed/painted wood to end grain. Think about it like this. Stick your tongue to a piece of paper, and it'll pick it up. Stick your tongue to the same piece of paper but only laminated, and it won't pick it up.
I never thought of that, I recall seeing someone, possably Moe Lester say "I shoulda told you to paint the port first" and I guess this thought stuck in my head. This is why I offered to build a box for my friend 1st before I start building for myself. I think I'll still paint the port next time, but tape off where the wood will be glued together.

 
gonna bottom out with about 500 w I think. I put mine in a 3.5 box just for laughes and could only put about 350w before it sounded like ***.
If this is correct, I have a small problem then because I was planning on using a Hifonics BXi 1606D with gains set to give it around 850rms.

Should I just save some money and get the Hifonics BXi 606 then since this box design will limit the wattage going to the sub?

You know how I doubled the front of the box, Can I double the outside of the (2) port pcs and the right wall? Does this make sense, what should I do PA?

 
Thanks for the info //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

I never thought of that, I recall seeing someone, possably Moe Lester say "I shoulda told you to paint the port first" and I guess this thought stuck in my head. This is why I offered to build a box for my friend 1st before I start building for myself. I think I'll still paint the port next time, but tape off where the wood will be glued together.
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif Almost sig worthy, gotta try yo' skills on someone else's shit before your own. I like it //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

And what moe was probably talking about was to do just that, but not to paint over the contact area //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
If this is correct, I have a small problem then because I was planning on using a Hifonics BXi 1606D with gains set to give it around 850rms.
Should I just save some money and get the Hifonics BXi 606 then since this box design will limit the wattage going to the sub?

You know how I doubled the front of the box, Can I double the outside of the (2) port pcs and the right wall? Does this make sense, what should I do PA?
Bottom out city man.

What I'd do is run the amp at a lower ohm load (like 4 ohms) so you only give it ~450. Doesn't need as much power to get loud.

 
So I should go with the smaller Hifonics BXi 606 then since this box design will limit the wattage going to the sub?

Even though it will not get as many watts how will the sound of it be. Since you say "bottom out city" to me that means the sub is going to have some big time excursion going on if its to the point of bottoming out.

We allready ordered the Dual 2ohm Type R so its either gonna be 1 ohm or 4 ohm. BXi 600 @ 600rms x 1 @ 1ohm with gain just over half should get the job done then huh?

Why is it that realmofexcursion has like 4 people with 12" type R's in 3.0 cubes @ 30hz using 1000watt rms amps, they all screw up like me or just have the gains way down?

*edit*

PA what can I do to my box to bring down the cubes?, with the front baffle its at 2.87 right now.

 
OR! you can get the 1606 and run it at a high impedance with the gains down and the the sub output setting on your HU around the middle.

Then test your outputs with a DMM and use that to set gains for a lower wattage.

If you ever decide to go bigger with your setup you'll have more than enough power //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 
As I had suggested //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

The box won't limit the power going to the sub, what is going to happen is that the enclosure is so large that the air cannot damp the cone well enough for the power being given to it. When that happens, you can potentailly get overexcursion and risk mechanical failure.

 
2.87 with or without speaker displacement???

if its without displacement....then u might be ok......cause i have mine in 2.5 cubes each
2.87 is without speaker displacement. I'm going to go over all internat dimensions and recalculate to make sure.

 
PV and other's, to cut down on cubes can I double up the following (2) sections indicated in the below image? If I do this what will be some of the effects?

box10dn5gt4.jpg


2.87 with or without speaker displacement???

if its without displacement....then u might be ok......cause i have mine in 2.5 cubes each
2.87 is without speaker displacement. I'm going to go over all internal dimensions and recalculate to make sure.

*edit* lol I just noticed the Multi-Quote button, sorry for all double posts.

 
deja vu... i think i've seen those pics before //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

if you put in those two pieces i get about 2.75ft^3 @ 33Hz

the more volume to take away from the inside of the box the higher the tuning will be.

 
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