Considering PA

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

I'm looking for a small setup, 6.5 and light bullet. I dont want to over power the midbass to much. Here are my current options, the Hertz is a bit more but I've had VERY good luck with them. I've also had good luck with DD so I'm undecided and looking for opinions. I've never messed with PA myself but I've heard a lot, most was lower budget and didnt sound good at all do to bad CO placement.

Choices

VO-B1 | DD Audio

VO-M6.5 | DD Audio

OR

HERTZ by Elettromedia - Special Car Stereo

HERTZ by Elettromedia - Special Car Stereo

Click to read more...

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Bump

 

[SounDrive Pro Seller]

I heard a Soundstream demo hearse, and it was loud and clear. It was one of my favorite vehicles I've seen in person. Of course, most of it is in the install.

I've also heard several Crescendo PA setups and so far they've all sounded like trash. But once again, the installs were pretty poor.

And as far as forum boners go, I've heard good things about Sundown Neo Pros and MMATs.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

I heard a Soundstream demo hearse, and it was loud and clear. It was one of my favorite vehicles I've seen in person. Of course, most of it is in the install.
I've also heard several Crescendo PA setups and so far they've all sounded like trash. But once again, the installs were pretty poor.

And as far as forum boners go, I've heard good things about Sundown Neo Pros and MMATs.

Those two are my only options. Both local dealer that take good care. Not a fan of the crescendo either.

 

[pro-rabbit 5,000+ posts]

PA speaker setups come down to install like all other speakers.

We have done several setups with a very wide range of results. Mainly do to the wants/needs of the clients. However, depending on the install and cross over points they can be rather harsh or more smooth.

Personally I'm not a huge fan of them, but if they are required just take the time and do everything right and you will be fine with just about any PA speakers on the market.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

PA speaker setups come down to install like all other speakers.
We have done several setups with a very wide range of results. Mainly do to the wants/needs of the clients. However, depending on the install and cross over points they can be rather harsh or more smooth.

Personally I'm not a huge fan of them, but if they are required just take the time and do everything right and you will be fine with just about any PA speakers on the market.

The mid is in a glassed pod. The tweeter will have to be in the forward upper door panel due to depth and stage height. CO point will stay the same if it works. Mid will cover 300-4000 bandpass into the tweeter.

 

[T3mpest 10+ year member]

The mid is in a glassed pod. The tweeter will have to be in the forward upper door panel due to depth and stage height. CO point will stay the same if it works. Mid will cover 300-4000 bandpass into the tweeter.

If your going to run Pro audio for god sakes, do it right. Get out of these car audio speakers. Your paying 2x the price for rebadged drivers in most cases.. You may need to use car audio for the tweeter there aren't that many pro audio tweets as most use horns, but for the mids, use a REAL speaker.

B&C, Faital Pro, 18sounds, there are alot of good options. Browse around US SPEAKER PARTS - Speakers, Speaker Cabinets, Guitar speakers, Bass speakers, , Woofers, HF Drivers, speaker upgrades and replacement speakers. Eminence Speaker, JBL speakers, 18 Sound, B&C, EV, Tannoy, Peavey, Celestion, RCF, Jensen, Beyma, Fane, P

edit: The DD speakers look like a good speaker for the price, if they sound good. I've never heard them so I can't comment there, but on paper the pricing is very good. That being said, I'd put very good money on a B&C de35+B&C 6NDL38 combo being significantly better, although it'd be more money. I can't find the hertz your looking at from the link to get an idea of actual budget here.... The US speaker link I gave has alot of brands and speakers, but their prices ****, shop around if you find something you like or just lmk and I can see if I know of anywhere. How low does the mid need to play, I have no idea how high your DD's can play in your hatchback.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

If your going to run Pro audio for god sakes, do it right. Get out of these car audio speakers. Your paying 2x the price for rebadged drivers in most cases.. You may need to use car audio for the tweeter there aren't that many pro audio tweets as most use horns, but for the mids, use a REAL speaker. B&C, Faital Pro, 18sounds, there are alot of good options. Browse around US SPEAKER PARTS - Speakers, Speaker Cabinets, Guitar speakers, Bass speakers, , Woofers, HF Drivers, speaker upgrades and replacement speakers. Eminence Speaker, JBL speakers, 18 Sound, B&C, EV, Tannoy, Peavey, Celestion, RCF, Jensen, Beyma, Fane, P

edit: The DD speakers look like a good speaker for the price, if they sound good. I've never heard them so I can't comment there, but on paper the pricing is very good. That being said, I'd put very good money on a B&C de35+B&C 6NDL38 combo being significantly better, although it'd be more money. I can't find the hertz your looking at from the link to get an idea of actual budget here.... The US speaker link I gave has alot of brands and speakers, but their prices ****, shop around if you find something you like or just lmk and I can see if I know of anywhere. How low does the mid need to play, I have no idea how high your DD's can play in your hatchback.

ZR800s cover 60-300. Out of the ones you mentioned I've heard Beyma and peavey. The DDs sounded better to me. Mids and tweeters. They are very smooth. Now from a very trusted source that use to love selinium... The Hertz are the best thing ever. Problem is I will have to buy to hear. DD will be around $200. Hertz closer to $600. They are the SPL show 6.5 and ST25

 

[T3mpest 10+ year member]

So 3 way install then.. You can hit the middle of that budget using raw pro audio drivers and end up with something very nice. Only issue is the zr midbasses might not keep up at full tilt, srs //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

6 PEV13 with a de35 tweeter would work well. B&C makes good reliable speakers. At any range they tend to be fairly competitive or best in their price points and always good SQ. Faital pro drivers are very dynamic and painfully impactful from the ones I've heard. Not as clean sounding, but more in line with your DD subs, I'd imagine. If brand matchign is important though their tweets are a bit expensive and large

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

So 3 way install then.. You can hit the middle of that budget using raw pro audio drivers and end up with something very nice. Only issue is the zr midbasses might not keep up at full tilt, srs //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif
6 PEV13 with a de35 tweeter would work well. B&C makes good reliable speakers. At any range they tend to be fairly competitive or best in their price points and always good SQ. Faital pro drivers are very dynamic and painfully impactful from the ones I've heard. Not as clean sounding, but more in line with your DD subs, I'd imagine. If brand matchign is important though their tweets are a bit expensive and large

Ill take a look. Last time I had this idea most of the stuff you recommend I looked at, but most if the stuff was 8ohm. I don't mind spending money to keep close to the amazing SQ I have now. About the mid bass. It keeps up now with 150db substage and the a hertz are no slouch.

 

[T3mpest 10+ year member]

8 ohm really isnt' a big deal, promise. The drivers you have now are what, low 93db/1w/1m. If rated like a 8 ohm driver, you'd need to subtract 3db since they measure that at 2.83v, which is really 2 watts for an 8 ohm driver. So they are 90db/1w/1m. The B&C's I linked are 98db/1w/1m. That's 8db's of output advantage.. You have 150 watts on your hertz, you'd need over 1000 watts to be as loud as B&C's linked will be on 150, excluding power compression (we both know you'd see flames long before 1000 watts lol)

If your front stage "keeps up" now, it'll keep up even if you go to the power, it'll be singificantly louder on half the power too. Just something to think about. I was wary about 8ohm speakers the first time I tried it too. My last setup was 97db/1w/1m in kickpanels, 8s. Trust me, you physically couldn't scream at the top of your lungs and have anyone else in the car hear what you were saying, subs off. About 125-150 watts/side. If you can get into mid range B&C drivers, your not going to be getting a objectively better speaker from anyone. A more expensive speaker sure, but not much better.