complete and utter newb to amp installs-help please!

[Askut]

Hi folks, looking for confirmation on wiring process and needs for my install. I have installed aftermarket headunits before, but never an amplifier, so it's a bit of a new experience.

I've got a 92 Miata that the headunit is inoperable, so I'm doing a headunitless project. I purchased a Kenwood KAC-M1824BT, which is rated for 4x45w RMS. Music will simply be streamed to it from my phone. I am planning on using the Polk Audio Db651s for front speakers, leaving the rear channels open for now. I may install speakers with more bass response on the rear channels in the future, should the Polks be lacking.

The amp came with a molex connector with all the wires needed for mounting to a headunit, and it includes the power and ground wires... I'm mounting the amp close enough to the battery that I don't need any extra wiring for the power, aside from the inline fuse that I need to put in.

From my reading online it looks like I need an inline fuse with a tail to the battery? Is there a recommended fuse type/holder to use? I couldn't find what gauge wire the amp comes with on the molex connector, so I"m unsure what amp fuse to put in...

I'll be running new speaker wires (14g should work I believe)and leaving some extra length near the door, so it has some play to allow the doors to open and close.

Help a newb out, please!

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[61ragtop]

Fur speaker wire you should be fine with 16 awg.

Now for the amp fuse you will want to fuse it to the amperage that the wire can handle. Try to find what gauge it is and a quick google search will get you a chart for length and amperage of the wire.

I personally am not a fan of the fuse holders that have the glass fuses in them. I would go for one with an ANL style fuse.

Hope this helps

 

[fly_marlin]

Hi folks, looking for confirmation on wiring process and needs for my install. I have installed aftermarket headunits before, but never an amplifier, so it's a bit of a new experience.
I've got a 92 Miata that the headunit is inoperable, so I'm doing a headunitless project. I purchased a Kenwood KAC-M1824BT, which is rated for 4x45w RMS. Music will simply be streamed to it from my phone. I am planning on using the Polk Audio Db651s for front speakers, leaving the rear channels open for now. I may install speakers with more bass response on the rear channels in the future, should the Polks be lacking.

The amp came with a molex connector with all the wires needed for mounting to a headunit, and it includes the power and ground wires... I'm mounting the amp close enough to the battery that I don't need any extra wiring for the power, aside from the inline fuse that I need to put in.

From my reading online it looks like I need an inline fuse with a tail to the battery? Is there a recommended fuse type/holder to use? I couldn't find what gauge wire the amp comes with on the molex connector, so I"m unsure what amp fuse to put in...

I'll be running new speaker wires (14g should work I believe)and leaving some extra length near the door, so it has some play to allow the doors to open and close.

Help a newb out, please!

For your application, 8awg wire will be fine and you can use up to 100A inline fuse. AGU (glass) fuse ratings only go to 80A, which will be fine for you. ANL fuses go up to 300A or so. You can do either 80A AGU, ANL, or mini ANL fuse or even 100A ANL fuse. Whatever you kind find for less will work fine. While this fuse is to protect the wire, your will probably never draw over 10A, so you're fine until you upgrade later.

I can tell you right off the bat, the midbass and bass will be lacking. Off ample power, those speakers have average midbass at best, but that amp will be under powering them by a margin, which means you won't get the low end you're looking for. Additionally, should you put ample power on them, keep in mind proper door treatment also improves midbass response. Hope this helps.