Check out wut I might get next week

well i just noticed your thread about the check engine light, i'd say get that settled first. sorry bout soundin like a jackass in the first post i just tend to do that sometimes. theres probably not That many bolt on choices for that car, but as far as a general idea... for filters, most people agree that the highest flowing (but often minimal filtering) are the mushroom shaped style (ie hks super mega flow) however i've noticed a general consenus that a very good flowing and filtering is the apex'i like the one shown in the first few pics on this page: http://mkiv.com/techarticles/apexi_air_filter/index.html it is however a pretty expensive filter. as far as the ducting, pretty much a short ram style is designed for an intake air volume increase which is suited mostly towards top end power, like high rpm horsepower gains, probably a higher peak number. cold air intakes are generally the longer tubing which is geared towards increased air velocity and that generally helps out the the lower to mid rpm range and helps with a lower end torque numbers a little more rather than the peak hp numbers.
??? Not my thread? Unless you are referring to a post I made a long time ago, but I no longer have that problem

 
I know with most vw models (minus i believe the 1.8t) there's actually a DECREASE in performance with most upgrade air intakes, FYI.
x10, x232

EuroTuner or whichever Euro mag I picked up at the airport one day had a big intake shootout, and guess what; Stock airbox for the win. That was over Iceman, AEM, and various other pricey brands.

 
especially with 4 bangers too
unless you have the v6

however, 4 bangers going the naturally aspirated route is just plain out retarded

for power with a 4 banger going forced induction is teh way to go
now THIS depends on the car....

honda engines can get NASTY fast n/a

those heads flow bazillions of times more airflow than you could ever need, especially the vtec engines

i saw a white si with weber carbs (no cai here //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif ) and that thing was FAST.

some engines just can't flow enough air to get fast n/a

in 100% of cases, tho, it costs a TON more $$/hp to stay n/a, no matter what the engine is, it's squeezing blood from a stone, some stones just bleed a hell of a lot more than others

 
i not into the whole car performance upgrades that much so can someone tell me what n/a means? does it have to with the engine and drivetrain like ff, fr, etc, or is it completely different

 
n/a means Naturally Aspirated. This has to do with how air gets into the cylinders (before compression, combustion, and ultimately exhaust.) Most cars are naturally aspirated.

f/i means Forced Induction. A turbocharger or supercharger, or even nitrous fall under this category - Forcing air into the cylinders before compression.

 
HKS mushroom filters are def. the worst filters ever if you want a good one buy an apexi filter. They have a site testing a few and hks was the worst and apexi was the best.

 
i saw a white si with weber carbs (no cai here //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif ) and that thing was FAST.
In Ohio?

Belongs to Jeremy Otulo from SlowMotionMotorsports, I believe.

Used to live a few doors down from me, saw him zippin' around a couple days back.

 
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