capping on caps

Batteries do help even if you play your system on engine only, i try this one, i had my stock bat and when it died i get a motorcraft that is a little bit bigger and dimmin and everything go away.

I'll do big 3 really soon.

 
You misunderstand the intention of people saying to upgrade the batt. Batteries sulfate over time, increasing their internal resistance. This resistance is present in the circuit even when the alternator has raised system voltage to 14volts or more. And obviously, more resistance in the circuit is not a good thing.
Batteries do help even if you play your system on engine only, i try this one, i had my stock bat and when it died i get a motorcraft that is a little bit bigger and dimmin and everything go away.
I'll do big 3 really soon.
perfect example

 
that does not mean you need an UPGRADE...simply means replacement! and i agree that any excess resistance present is not good
So you recommend going back to the vehicle manufacturer and purchasing another OEM battery? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif
 
So you recommend going back to the vehicle manufacturer and purchasing another OEM battery? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif
definitely not for my car, but just saying that you don't have to upgrade to solve your stated issue, and most people say UPGRADE battery before alternator

edit: truthfully, i have had very good experience with longevity out of factory batteries, 11 years from motorcraft, and 9 from whatever came in the infinity

 
definitely not for my car, but just saying that you don't have to upgrade to solve your stated issue, and most people say UPGRADE battery before alternator
I do.

Shit, if you're going to go ahead and spend ~$100 on a regular battery from a local place... you should just go ahead and spend the extra $50 and get a yellow top.

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

nG

 
I do.
Shit, if you're going to go ahead and spend ~$100 on a regular battery from a local place... you should just go ahead and spend the extra $50 and get a yellow top.

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

nG
the upgraded battery around here is $65...just got one that was titanium from advance 800ca and it works great for me

 
AltBatt.jpg

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

nG
But battery voltage doesn't sit at 12V like that image is showing....it's quite misleading actually. Clamp your batt with a dmm after you turn your car off and you'll see that it'll be in the upper 13V area, nowhere near where that misleading image is showing.

 
But battery voltage doesn't sit at 12V like that image is showing....it's quite misleading actually. Clamp your batt with a dmm after you turn your car off and you'll see that it'll be in the upper 13V area, nowhere near where that misleading image is showing.
my new bat sits at 12.6 after a night of motor off

 
my new bat sits at 12.6 after a night of motor off
Do it just after you turn your truck off...obviously it's going to go back down to it's normal resting voltage, but when the motor is running it's like having your batt hooked up to a battery charger, where you can charge it much higher than it's normal resting voltage.

 
that is a whole other conversation, because that is also idle load...try testing yours just after engine off, but with the headlights on
I'm just referring to how the diagram is misleading, saying that the batt doesn't help until voltage drops to 12V, which is ridiculous. Many people don't realize that while their car is running, their 12V batt has a much higher voltage...

 
I'm just referring to how the diagram is misleading, saying that the batt doesn't help until voltage drops to 12V, which is ridiculous. Many people don't realize that while their car is running, their 12V batt has a much higher voltage...
agreed, but i do not know what the duration the battery can sustain that voltage is, especially with the dip below 12v....it may almost instantaneously return to rest

 
agreed, but i do not know what the duration the battery can sustain that voltage is, especially with the dip below 12v....it may almost instantaneously return to rest
The point that I'm trying to make is that it takes a hell of a lot of amps being drawn in order for your vehicle's voltage to drop to 12V, even 13V. The diagram shows it as being such a sharp drop without the cap, where in reality it's not like that. This makes the average person thig "OMG, I'm screwed without a cap."

 
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