Capacitor

[fatryan 5,000+ posts]

Wouldn't one of those 50F cap devices cost more than a high power alternator for a domestic truck? I've never quite understoof why those are around anyway, if they really did do what they are supposed to do the everyone would have them, right?

i doubt itd be that expensive. but in my experience with caps, they are a nice thing to have. when i had my kx1200 i had the 2 RF caps in my sig on it to prevent my headlights from dimming (cause BIG 3 w/1/0awg + 180amp HO alt + 2awg wire to amp didnt help), and it completely fixed it. i had no dimming whatsoever. my bat gauge still showed that my alt was working hard, but at least i didnt have to see it with every bass hit.

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

what rpm did your alt turn on and how good of shape was the battery?

 

[fatryan 5,000+ posts]

what rpm did your alt turn on and how good of shape was the battery?

Me? The alt is on at any rpm. and the bat is an Optima YT

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

Me? The alt is on at any rpm. and the bat is an Optima YT

alts dont just produce full power when on. i had 2 soundstream 3.0's and a 6.0 in my old firebird no class d all a/b with no caps hooked up on a 120 amp alt at 2000 rpm (was about 90 ish at idle iirc) and never had a dimage problem it ran 2 eqs a x over 3 amps a noisegate with a pair of controlers everything in the car was powered it didnt dim at all, only problem i ever had with it was with key off tuning sessions killed 2 red tops. all 3 amps were also modded for more power oh yea was also a 4th amp used as a line driver a usa 100. now i have a vga 320.4 requires 90 amps of fuse (has an 80 anl) my alt is an 80 amp alt (full power) no cap, 1 battery no dimming at all reguardless what i turn on. for it to be a "strain" all the time there has got to be a reason/problem as it souldnt be a real strain until you try running a test tones through it full bore for more than a few seconds

 

[fatryan 5,000+ posts]

alts dont just produce full power when on. i had 2 soundstream 3.0's and a 6.0 in my old firebird no class d all a/b with no caps hooked up on a 120 amp alt at 2000 rpm (was about 90 ish at idle iirc) and never had a dimage problem it ran 2 eqs a x over 3 amps a noisegate with a pair of controlers everything in the car was powered it didnt dim at all, only problem i ever had with it was with key off tuning sessions killed 2 red tops. all 3 amps were also modded for more power oh yea was also a 4th amp used as a line driver a usa 100. now i have a vga 320.4 requires 90 amps of fuse (has an 80 anl) my alt is an 80 amp alt (full power) no cap, 1 battery no dimming at all reguardless what i turn on. for it to be a "strain" all the time there has got to be a reason/problem as it souldnt be a real strain until you try running a test tones through it full bore for more than a few seconds

well the way you stated it above, you made it sound like the alt isnt on until a certain rpm, which isnt true. i know it doesnt put out its rated amperage until a certain rpm, but it still puts out more at idle than a stock alt (not sure what though). anyways, i DO think i have some sort of electrical problem because when i use my turn signal, my bat gauge jumps up and down a V to V and 1/2 every time it blinks. which is really freaking weird. it did that with my stock alt, stock bat, no BIG 3 and no system too though. but either way, for my lights to dim from 1400-1500w hits is not unordinary, even with a HO alt and BIG3. This is the first car i ever did a big 3 in, but ive had 2 other cars (92 blazer and 92 taurus) with systems and HO alt, and they both had diming problems on high bass songs at high volumes. happens with all of my friends systems too (although only 1 of my friend has a HO alt, and none have BIG3). Its not like its ******* out the juice then taking a while to recharge it. it only dims for the split second that the bass hits.

 

[Sleeklsc 5,000+ posts]

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[fatryan 5,000+ posts]

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[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

well the way you stated it above, you made it sound like the alt isnt on until a certain rpm, which isnt true. i know it doesnt put out its rated amperage until a certain rpm, but it still puts out more at idle than a stock alt (not sure what though). anyways, i DO think i have some sort of electrical problem because when i use my turn signal, my bat gauge jumps up and down a V to V and 1/2 every time it blinks. which is really freaking weird. it did that with my stock alt, stock bat, no BIG 3 and no system too though. but either way, for my lights to dim from 1400-1500w hits is not unordinary, even with a HO alt and BIG3. This is the first car i ever did a big 3 in, but ive had 2 other cars (92 blazer and 92 taurus) with systems and HO alt, and they both had diming problems on high bass songs at high volumes. happens with all of my friends systems too (although only 1 of my friend has a HO alt, and none have BIG3). Its not like its ******* out the juice then taking a while to recharge it. it only dims for the split second that the bass hits.

some alts dont turn on up to even "factory output" even till about 1000-1500 rpm depends on the alt. i know gdadidias and a few others had that same problem with their ho alts. just saying upon relitive speaking the firebird i had should have dimmed well before a vehicle with your set up should. real world power the firebird was about 1600-1800 watts of a/b power thats far less efficient than a class d

 

[fatryan 5,000+ posts]

some alts dont turn on up to even "factory output" even till about 1000-1500 rpm depends on the alt. i know gdadidias and a few others had that same problem with their ho alts. just saying upon relitive speaking the firebird i had should have dimmed well before a vehicle with your set up should. real world power the firebird was about 1600-1800 watts of a/b power thats far less efficient than a class d

a while back i got into an arguement about this whole thing about alts tunring on. the only person i can remember in the arguemnet was moe lester. anyways, they swore up and down that their alts were not on AT ALL until a certain rpm (2-3k i think). and i tried to tell them that that it the most ludacris statement ever. cause that means the bat isnt getting charged until 2-3k rms. which means when i let my truck warm up in the winter, the bat would die in less than 10 minutes. and this past summer i slept in my truck while it was running for about 7 hours with AC on. so that alone proves that the alt is always on. sorry to rant

anyways, i dont know how you didnt get any dimming. did u play high bass songs? at high volumes? maybe your amps didnt draw as much current as mine?

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

on and being powerful at said rpm are 2 totally different things lol

 

[fatryan 5,000+ posts]

on and being powerful at said rpm are 2 totally different things lol

yeah i know, and i wasnt quite sure which 1 your were saying, so i decided to rant anyways

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

whatever the problem is im sure its simple ever get the alt tested for output or try another ground?

 

[DIGIDIGIBOMBO 10+ year member]

A question off topic. regulators are used to regulate voltage not allowing more than 13.8-14V to reach the battery from alt. They say do not remove the battery while car engine is running because we will have pulsating DC voltage rize...and that the batt stabilize the charge...i thought regulator stabilize the charge. Some people say that the car will directly shut down because no more DC voltage will reach the electronin ignition amplifier, but since all alt, batt sys is connected in parallel i cant understand why the car shuts down? SO the car will shit down, or we will have voltage rizing....?thx

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

that i dont know lol never tried it but i have been in a car when the battery died and the car did too that was red top number 1 lol on the way home from marion

 

[fatryan 5,000+ posts]

whatever the problem is im sure its simple ever get the alt tested for output or try another ground?

yes and yes. i think ive tried everything. i cant find the problem