If it was me, I'd go with the PPI over the CT just because I've had experience with them in the past, whereas CT is a rather new company. Their stuff does look quality though, and gets good reviews, even from some of the members here that have used their stuff.
I ended up buying PPI.
I went with the PPI 900.5 instead of the PPI 900.4 -- Figured for the $200 pricetag , I might as well go with 5 channels and run the 2 MB Quart 6.5 coaxials in the rear just cause I can.. Why let the German made MB Quarts sit in my closet for another 10 years? They need to scream again. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif
I'll comment on the decision later.. but haven't received one "Don't go PPI ,.. their amps ****!" //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif
The 900.5 is less powerful in a way,.. it pushes 70watts x 4 and 270 x 1 -- My front components are 80watts,.. so they will not have quite full power.. but 70 will do,.. the rear MB Quarts are 70watts so that works out,.. the Sub is 300 watts RMS.. but 270 will work fine as well. I only put 100watts on my 12" W1's in my last system and they were insane. Hard to believe that two JL 12" subs with 200watts total on them blew everyone else's systems (Even JL W6's) out of the water back in highschool.. but it did. I ran 2, JL 12" W1's , each with a Kenwood refurbished amp that ran 100watts RMS,.. and a Kenwood amp at 75x2 to Two MB Quart 6.5" coaxials in the doors of a 300ZX. Had the two 12" JL's in a sealed box facing the rear ( hatch ) and it still has the best Sound quality of anything I've listened to since. Even 10 grand nutso systems with a dozen speakers.
There is A LOT to be said about the shape and accoustics of the car itself. Hatchbacks have a HUGE advantage over every other style vehicle .. and the Z line of Nissans tends to be acoustically designed (by accident I'm sure) amazingly.
Anyhow.. Looking forward to doing this install -- Still working out in my head exactly how I'm going to make the secondary door boots I'm running look nice.. I have a few ideas,.. but now that I've worked it all out, the install shouldn't be "painful" or tedious -- Now that I'm drilling some small holes in the door jams for the new speaker wire from amp to components instead of going through factory molex and boots. (It's a long story, but going through factory molex = potential electrical problems.. + takes most people 4+ hours just to run it 2 feet.) Two holes, a few grommets, lock nuts, proper tubing will turn it into a 15 minute per door , painless operation that doesn't interfere with the factory electrical molex. So no dreading that part..
I still expect to be working all day and night on the install.. if I get it done in a day I'll consider it fast,.. but if I run into no problems whatsoever I don't see why I can't finish it up in 8-10 hours (taking my sweet time).