Broken Tinsel lead repair?

wong05tsx
10+ year member

CarAudio.com Elite
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Oakland, CA
Can't seem to find a DIY on how to repair/replace the lead. Any help?

This is on a 10" SSA Icon that i've been running for 2+ years now

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Could try soldering back together. But when I tried it was a PITA, so I ended up just reconing.....Another option that MAY work is solid copper OR just uninsulated buttconnectors. I don't see this posing a problem other than possibly slapping the cone so maybe get a felt pad to put above the leads on the cone as well.

 
Could try soldering back together. But when I tried it was a PITA, so I ended up just reconing.....Another option that MAY work is solid copper OR just uninsulated buttconnectors. I don't see this posing a problem other than possibly slapping the cone so maybe get a felt pad to put above the leads on the cone as well.
I thought about the butt connectors but was afraid that it would tear the spider. The felt pad is a good idea - would I epoxy a piece to the cone AND a piece on the spider?

 
It Shouldn't tear the spider. I would just put a piece on the cone. Do this and play it free air on a 20hz tone, and keep increasing volume until you feel you are at close to max excursion so you can see if it is going to damage it in the long run.

 
Did the butt connector as suggested. Everything is working right now - hope it'll last.

I took a regular 12ga butt connector and stripped the plastic part of it. After 30min of wrestling with the wires in the tight space I finally got the tinsels connected. DMM check=good. I topped it off with some gorilla tape around it for some extra padding/security. Tested in the car and evverything seems to be good.

Didn't get to turn it up since its 12am and don't want to wake the friendlies.

Thanks ascitiesburn69

 
if that doesn't work for you. go to radio shack and buy some desoldering braid in the soldering iron section . it is thin braided copper so it is very flexible . double up the braid , solder the ends and use it to bridge the gap of the broken lead. use some shrink tubing to cover the new lead... or replace the whole thing and glue the braid along the spider to the terminal..

 
I wish i could solder or buttsplice mine but it snapped right at the terminal =/ dc lvl 4 only lasted like 3 weeks and i gotta find someone to repair it. i got a quote for 50+ shipping to fix just the one lead though

 
Desoldering braid wouldn't be a good choice for the reason of it being flexible as it is no longer flexible once you apply solder to it. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

it broke because it was too short to begin with. the butt splice reduces flexibility and may also reduce travel distance - only time will tell. at least your solution didn't make it any shorter than it was.

did you solder the butt splice on?

if the lead breaks off at the terminal - it's an easier fix. the issue is, yet again, the end result is shorter than before meaning less excursion capability.

detailed solder repair of a tinsel lead at the terminal:

http://www.caraudio.com/forum/wiring-electrical-installation-help/479065-broken-tinsel-lead.html

 
Update: 2 weeks of running strong and it just fell off again. I will sell my SSA Icon D1 for cheap if anyone is interested. Just 1 tinsel lead is broken. I have no background in taking subs apart so I'll just take this opportunity to try out diff subs (probably IDMax or Fi Q).

 
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wong05tsx

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