Brand new system and lots of problems. pleaseee help me.

[DrTre5189 10+ year member]

Alright so I just got two American Bass TNT 12 inch subwoofers installed yesterday. My amp is the American bass PHantom 2500 MD. I got the big three upgrade for my 2007 jeep grand Cherokee. I got it and everything would work fine but the subs would cut in and out. They would play and stop and start playing again after I turned the music down for a minute. I have a stock alternator and an okay battery. Not anything to special though. Besides that all was good for a couple of hours until I noticed a sort of rattling sound coming from the enclosure on certain bass notes. On those bass notes I could feel the back of the enclosure shaking violently as if it was going to burst. As I kept playing music I noticed the wood rattling noise more and more often like the box was being beaten up. When I sat on the enclosure the noise would go away. So I figure I need a bigger and better enclosure to handle the amount of pressure that I being pushed by these subs. Then to top it all off my subs cut off for good tonight. The amp was getting no power, it was not in protect mode or anything. I looked under the hood and one of the wires in between the alternator and the car battery has turned black and burned and the plastic connector piece it was hooked up to was partially melted. So I'm confused on what I need to do to full proof this sound system so this won't happen again? Do I need a better battery or a power cell on the side? What kind of enclosure would be better for these subs. I just invested a lot of money into this and I hate to see it have problems so soon. Please any help is greatly appreciated.

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[av83 10+ year member]

Alright so I just got two American Bass TNT 12 inch subwoofers installed yesterday. My amp is the American bass PHantom 2500 MD. I got the big three upgrade for my 2007 jeep grand Cherokee. I got it and everything would work fine but the subs would cut in and out. They would play and stop and start playing again after I turned the music down for a minute. I have a stock alternator and an okay battery. Not anything to special though. Besides that all was good for a couple of hours until I noticed a sort of rattling sound coming from the enclosure on certain bass notes. On those bass notes I could feel the back of the enclosure shaking violently as if it was going to burst. As I kept playing music I noticed the wood rattling noise more and more often like the box was being beaten up. When I sat on the enclosure the noise would go away. So I figure I need a bigger and better enclosure to handle the amount of pressure that I being pushed by these subs. Then to top it all off my subs cut off for good tonight. The amp was getting no power, it was not in protect mode or anything. I looked under the hood and one of the wires in between the alternator and the car battery has turned black and burned and the plastic connector piece it was hooked up to was partially melted. So I'm confused on what I need to do to full proof this sound system so this won't happen again? Do I need a better battery or a power cell on the side? What kind of enclosure would be better for these subs. I just invested a lot of money into this and I hate to see it have problems so soon. Please any help is greatly appreciated.

Oh, boy. You did something reeeeeallly wrong, bud. Pics of damage?

 

[DrTre5189 10+ year member]

I had all of this professionally installe but yes I did take a picture. I will upload it in a minute

 

[av83 10+ year member]

I had all of this professionally installe but yes I did take a picture. I will upload it in a minute

Now I REALLY want to see, lol.

 

[CAT MAN 5,000+ posts]

in 4 pics

i had this happen with my car when i used cca once on the big 3

 

[Serpent710 10+ year member]

in 4 pics
i had this happen with my car when i used cca once on the big 3

my buddy had this happen when he used wire from a ceiling fan //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/uhoh.gif.c07307dd22ee7e63e22fc8e9c614d1fd.gif

 

[SplAffair 10+ year member]

in 4 pics
i had this happen with my car when i used cca once on the big 3

I'm using cca right now for my big Three.... No issues

 

[CAT MAN 5,000+ posts]

cadence FTL although cca does get hot anyway

 

[av83 10+ year member]

cadence FTL although cca does get hot anyway

It might be due to the fact it was on an intake mani.... I did that before, and it worked, but there is a gasket and possibly threadlocked bolts holding it on. gasket + stuff around the bolts holding it on = no where for your current to flow.

edit: especially if it's the upper plenum....

 

[CAT MAN 5,000+ posts]

It might be due to the fact it was on an intake mani.... I did that before, and it worked, but there is a gasket and possibly threadlocked bolts holding it on. gasket + stuff around the bolts holding it on = no where for your current to flow.

i thought that too at the time (i was F'ng new)

 

[av83 10+ year member]

i thought that too at the time (i was F'ng new)

am i wrong?

 

[CAT MAN 5,000+ posts]

am i wrong?

no no no. in some circumstances you are completely right i read it wrong.

i thought it was making heat and frying the wire. you are talking about a gasket.

 

[husker77 10+ year member]

cadence FTL although cca does get hot anyway

And I doubt you were getting very good clamping force with it being plastic btw the bolt head and the wire lug.

 

[DrTre5189 10+ year member]

Alright here is the pictureView attachment 26535192

 

[CAT MAN 5,000+ posts]

Alright here is the pictureView attachment 26535192

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