Boston Pro60 owners...

[Kickerkitty 10+ year member]

I just got done running 400+ to each speaker in my setup, they got really loud but I could tell it was more than they needed, the midbass was violent by the way! I have a suspicion that the 300 rms range is about right, later next week I will be switching amps to a 150x2 and I have a feeling they will sound just fine.

 

[Echo42987 10+ year member]

I have mine at 250 each. I'm runnin' the Z's up front and the pros for the rears and they seem to love the power! It seems that you could easily put more power to these to give them a little more kick but 250 seems to truly make them shine very good....IMO

I love my setup off the QAA4250...it's the best amp to power all four speakers

-Nick-

 

[adam71 5,000+ posts]

Had to bring up this thread one more time for one more questions. I may be picking up a set of the pro60s and was wondering about power.

If I were to run these active, what is the most I should give the tweeters??

 

[FoxPro5 5,000+ posts]

Had to bring up this thread one more time for one more questions. I may be picking up a set of the pro60s and was wondering about power.
If I were to run these active, what is the most I should give the tweeters??

Wow...from the grave bro.

How much were you planning to give them??

 

[jluv 10+ year member]

I have a spin on that last question - what is the impedence of the woofer and tweeter separately? I have this set right now on a PPI A600.2, getting about 225 per side. They sound great. I want to leave that amp on the mids without giving up any power, and throw a 50x2 (at 4 ohm) at the tweeters. If the tweets are 3 ohm, my math tells me that would be 75w to each tweet. To me, that sounds like plenty. Is it possible, though, that the mid and tweets aren't both 3 ohm, and the amp just sees that load at the crossover?

 

[Starky 10+ year member]

arent Pro 60's and Z6's different?? the Z6's take 400 watts...the pros only take 125 watts RMS.....

Boston Pro 60's

the Z6's Take 400....

The Z6's are these

And btw FoxPro...the MB Quartz amps you sell are awesome For Z6's

 

[adam71 5,000+ posts]

Wow...from the grave bro.

Well, not really. The last post was May 20th. Someone else brought it back from last October. Other than that I thought this was a better idea then starting a new thread. At least now I know I'm talking to someone who has these speakers.

How much were you planning to give them??

I have a PRS-X720 for the woofers which is rated 244 watts @4ohms.

I have a PRS-X320 that is rated at 136 watts @ 4ohms.

The only thing is that I don't know what they would put out at 3ohms AND I have no idea what the individual drivers resistance would be when they're not connected to the supplied crossovers.

 

[walkychalky 10+ year member]

why do they rate em at only 125 but they need 200+ to "shine"

im gettin the 50's and am gonna be runnin em off of ~150 rms per side......i hope thats enuff

 

[FoxPro5 5,000+ posts]

Well, not really. The last post was May 20th. Someone else brought it back from last October. Other than that I thought this was a better idea then starting a new thread. At least now I know I'm talking to someone who has these speakers.


I have a PRS-X720 for the woofers which is rated 244 watts @4ohms.

I have a PRS-X320 that is rated at 136 watts @ 4ohms.

The only thing is that I don't know what they would put out at 3ohms AND I have no idea what the individual drivers resistance would be when they're not connected to the supplied crossovers.

136x4 = 544/3 = 181w at 3 ohms.

I don't know enough about passive design to tell you if the tweets are indeed 3 ohm also. Someone with a pair would have to test them to know for sure.

More power = more control. Applied intelligently, you can run as much as you want. It's certainly not needed...and it would be overkill, but you won't kill them unless you neglect to level match, improperly cross them over and have a bad ear for distortion.

 

[FoxPro5 5,000+ posts]

why do they rate em at only 125 but they need 200+ to "shine"
im gettin the 50's and am gonna be runnin em off of ~150 rms per side......i hope thats enuff

Consider that most class a/b's are about 50% efficient and also take into account that music is dynamic and you will see that what it comes down to is not rated power, but having the dynamic head room for a speaker to 'shine.' Some speakers are notoriously power hungary, Bostons are one of them...both the Z's and the Pro60's to my knowledge.

 

[FoxPro5 5,000+ posts]

arent Pro 60's and Z6's different?? the Z6's take 400 watts...the pros only take 125 watts RMS.....
Boston Pro 60's

the Z6's Take 400....

The Z6's are these

And btw FoxPro...the MB Quartz amps you sell are awesome For Z6's

Doubling the power results in a 3 dB gain. Both those speakers a very well made and can handle all the power you got. The issue really is the law of diminising returns....you could run a Quart bridged to each side if you really wanted to, but you're really not gaining much other than sheer decibles. Hell if it was feasable and I could afford it I would run 7 pure class A's to every one of my speakers in my car //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crazy.gif.c13912c32de98515d3142759a824dae7.gif This however would be stupid and as good of results could be met with more conventional means.

 

[Starky 10+ year member]

So...your saying that the Boston Pro 60's rated at 125 could take 400 watts? with out burning?

 

[FoxPro5 5,000+ posts]

So...your saying that the Boston Pro 60's rated at 125 could take 400 watts? with out burning?

Sure, why not. Again just because your amp puts out 400w doesn't mean the speakers see all that power all the time for reasons I already mentioned. It might not be economical, but would be just fine. In fact, you'd be better off with 400w than 50w for many reasons. It all depends on how clean the signal is. Hell 25w could fry them if you drove the amp into clipping for an extended period of time.

As I've said somewhere else on the site, there's actually no such thing as RMS power. The proper term is average power. I use the term RMS power anywhere that RMS voltage is driven into a resistive load. The purists just hate when someone uses the term RMS power. Since the term RMS power is used by most everyone in the industry, I'll use it here also. It may not be technically correct but it's less confusing for some. http://www.bcae1.com/2ltlpwr.htm

Many people ask the question... Can my speakers handle this amplifier or will this amplifier blow my speakers. Well, the truth is that any speaker can be driven by any amplifier. The only time that there will be a problem is when the person operating the system becomes abusive. Most people (and I do mean most) drive their amplifiers well into clipping. I know what your thinking... I never drive my amp into clipping. Well, you must be one of the very few. Generally speaking, if you have friends who are impressed by high volume, you drive your system into clipping.

 

No one can tell you if you will blow your speakers with a given amplifier. They may be able to tell you whether or not a pair of speakers will be able to handle a given amount of continuous RMS power. But... since they don't know your listening habits or your ability to hear (or even be concerned about) distortion, they (in my opinion) cannot actually tell you if a given amplifier (with you at the volume control) will blow your speakers.

http://www.bcae1.com/speakrat.htm

 

[bamaboy 5,000+ posts]

http://www.cardomain.com/item/KENKAC7252

i plan on running this amp on some pro 60s, should do around 220@3ohms, i might should use more power because i need them LOUD

 

[Kickerkitty 10+ year member]

Any more word on this?
I have multiple questions.

I'm planning to bi-amp these speakers and use a Carver 90x2 for the tweeters.

For the mids, I have two Carver KMOS2200 amps and I can either use one to drive both mids, or one each, bridged. These amps are rated at 100Wx2 into 4 ohms, 170x2 into 2, or 340x1 bridged mono into 4 ohms.

Q1) what is the impedance on just the mid driver?

Q2) Based on what you have said here, it sounds like maybe I should run both amps and pump ~340W per side into the mids. (I don't know exactly what it would really be, since I don't know the impedance of the 6.5" drivers). Should I? Or should I stick to 100W (or whatever it is, depending on the driver impedance) per side by just running one amp to drive both mids?

Thanks!

- Stu

Ok, I am qualified to answer this question, I have run Pro60's for extended periods of time, in a sealed/damped application. Off of deck power, off of 150 watts per side, and off of over 400 watts per side.

Off the deck they sound like you're hearing them through your sweater, not vibrant, but accurate still.

Off the 150 watts, sound clear and loud, more would probably be better.

Off the 400+, too much power definately. I am guessing 300 is about the most you honestly want to give them.

Hope this helps. I have no problems with only 150 per side.