Big 3

[Tek18 10+ year member]

getting some big 3 wire now.

Just curious

some people say i need a fuse for my + wire from the batt to the alt, is this true? some say i don't need it.. hmm.

also.

getting 10 ft of this.

Knukonceptz product detail for KCA KABLE 1/0 ULTRA FLEKS BLUE CCA POWER / GROUND CABLE

and ill need 6 terminals for 1/0 gauge

anything else needed?

such as this.. maybe.. there is a small wire that is attached to the + on the batt that goes to the fuse box i assume, so, i need something like this?

RAPTOR PDB3 1/0 GAUGE TO 4 GAUGE DISTRIBUTION BLOCK | eBay

or will i need a block that has 2 1/0 gauge adaptors as i will need to run one back to my amp one day.... or, not really that sure atm im getting this amp kit.

Copper Clad Aluminum

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[>>SQL<< 10+ year member]

I can answer the question about the fuse - my answer is no.

if you think about it it makes no sense.

If the wire from the Alt to battery burns or rubs through and touches metal (ground) unless you have a fuse at both ends (which noone has ever recommended) then either the battery or the Alt will still be grounded.

Look at this picture of my Big 3

If my wire running from the alt to the battery touched the exhaust metal (for example) if the wire was fused at the battery like recommended that fuse would blow but there would still be a direct short from the alt positive to ground. How would the fuse at the battery prevent a catastrophic electrical failure - it would not.

What is MOST important is making sure the wire from the alt to the battery cannot ever melt and touch metal.

I only put mine in recently - I will be covering mine with TechFlex (a heat resistant covering) however right now it is firmly ziptied to the a/c line which is inches away from the exhaust.

 

[CAT MAN 5,000+ posts]

I can answer the question about the fuse - my answer is no.
if you think about it it makes no sense.

If the wire from the Alt to battery burns or rubs through and touches metal (ground) unless you have a fuse at both ends (which noone has ever recommended) then either the battery or the Alt will still be grounded.

Look at this picture of my Big 3

If my wire running from the alt to the battery touched the exhaust metal (for example) if the wire was fused at the battery like recommended that fuse would blow but there would still be a direct short from the alt positive to ground. How would the fuse at the battery prevent a catastrophic electrical failure - it would not.

What is MOST important is making sure the wire from the alt to the battery cannot ever melt and touch metal.

I only put mine in recently - I will be covering mine with TechFlex (a heat resistant covering) however right now it is firmly ziptied to the a/c line which is inches away from the exhaust.

looks like a honda there with where tha alt is

 

[Tek18 10+ year member]

:S

kinda scary, where can i get some of the stuff to put around the wire that is very heat resistant?

 

[>>SQL<< 10+ year member]

:S
kinda scary, where can i get some of the stuff to put around the wire that is very heat resistant?

TechFlex is the good stuff

eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices

 

---------- Post added at 09:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:10 PM ----------

 

looks like a honda there with where tha alt is

Yup 97 Accord -

 

[Kangaroux 5,000+ posts]

Techflex works well. TBH it's not really necessary if you run your wire correctly. If you think it might be close to the engine block, buy a couple extra feet and reroute it a different way.

 

[CAT MAN 5,000+ posts]

TechFlex is the good stuffeBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices

 

---------- Post added at 09:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:10 PM ----------

 

Yup 97 Accord -

97 cl here (3.0) and my alt is on the other side with less space..only burnt myself twice before i removed the heat cover //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

 

[Tek18 10+ year member]

Sweet and its cheap./...

what type of batt block should i get? i need one for the + i know because i believe i have 2 1/0 gauge ( for the alt, and to my amp ) and i have a smaller wire, most likely 8 gauge or 10 gauge to my fuse box...

where is the wire that goes to my HU?

 

[Kangaroux 5,000+ posts]

Wire that goes to your headunit is split off from the fuse box. I prefer terminals that just have a bolt instead of screwing around with terminals with a ton of different holes.

 

[Tek18 10+ year member]

http://www.familycar.com/RoadTests/ToyotaHighlander/Images2004/Engine-md.jpg

 

[Tek18 10+ year member]

my car::::

http://i40.tinypic.com/2qcdl7d.jpg

 

[Kangaroux 5,000+ posts]

IMO, I would do a long run around the back rather than doing a run right in between the front components there. Better to just do it the right way the first time than try and bandage a future problem, I guess.

 

[Tek18 10+ year member]

how many ft should i order then :S

 

[Kangaroux 5,000+ posts]

Dunno. Grab a tape measure and just do some quick measuring.

 

[>>SQL<< 10+ year member]

IMO, I would do a long run around the back rather than doing a run right in between the front components there. Better to just do it the right way the first time than try and bandage a future problem, I guess.

I disagree - did you look at the pic. Just a short run from the alt to the battery would be fine -- 18" would be plenty

Roux has a high end crimper - some of us do not -- I prefer a battery terminal with a bunch of holes in it.

Also don't you think (Roux) that a longer run is more likely to have a rub or heat burn than a short run??

Here is my battery terminal