Big 3 Questions and Concerns with plenty of pictures

[Sweet'n Low 10+ year member]

I took my battery out and took a look at what i was dealing and a lot of questions came to mind.

"7) Attach the wire along the way to something that won’t get too hot and that won’t vibrate too terribly. Go ahead and connect the wire to the positive battery terminal"

one going to my trunk for my amps

Mine already has 3 things connected to it. Is this unusal or am i just not thinking this out?

Next I'm having a hard time finding a chassis ground. for both my engine block and negative. I've got a couple ideas though.

are either of these good?

next

"8) The last step is the Chassis to Engine Block wire. Remember to sand both points well, just like the when you did the Battery Negative to Chassis. All you need to do for this step is to find a non-essential bolt on the engine block to attach the wire to. Non-essentials are those that don’t hold a liquid in. For example… using the Oil Drain plug as an attachment point probably isn’t the smartest place."

Is this a good point?

Should I be concerned about the battery acid on my terminals also? I feel like i'm going to get a block anyway so i shouldn't worry about it. Also, how do I find my alternator? don't see it anywhere...

I know this is kind of a load and i still feel like im forgetting something but i'll go with this for now. It'd be a load of help if i can get some feedback. This will be my first time really going hands on when it comes to my stereo seeing that I had best buy install in originally.

Click to read more...

 

[CougarGuy 10+ year member]

i see you have either a contour/mystique/cougar...your main battery ground goes under your battery box, out of sight, also the engine ground is attached to the transaxle...

your also more than welcome to check out the wealth of info on my photobucket...

Project Grip pictures by cougarguy1802 - Photobucket

Scuba

 

[CougarGuy 10+ year member]

i also feel that i should add that the factory alternator is 130 amp and has 4-6 gauge wiring stock, and if this is earlier than a 00 or a 00 then you should also take the voltage sensing wire and wrap it around the main charge wire to eliminate any dimming you may encounter due to factory crap, obviously high amperage aps require the proper treatments...

 

[Sweet'n Low 10+ year member]

your engine is so tricked out compared to my stock lol hard to compare but i get the idea... did you have a hard upgrading your system with the wire locations? And how did you mount your amps to your seats? the backs of mine are straight steel (or aluminum..i think steel).

 

[Sweet'n Low 10+ year member]

dont mind the seat-amp part, last thing on my mind

 

[CougarGuy 10+ year member]

my install in a trainwreck at the moment, but i previously had self tapping screws shot into the seats...currently going with an entirely new set-up with no more rear seats but a huge flat floor!

 

[Sweet'n Low 10+ year member]

Couple Questions..

i also feel that i should add that the factory alternator is 130 amp and has 4-6 gauge wiring stock, and if this is earlier than a 00 or a 00 then you should also take the voltage sensing wire and wrap it around the main charge wire to eliminate any dimming you may encounter due to factory crap, obviously high amperage aps require the proper treatments...

can you go into more detail about that? what voltage sensing wire?

how do you suggest i get to the transaxle for the engine block ground to chassis(or negative) upgrade? did you hook your new wire back up to the transaxle or find a new spot?

where is my negative battery ground?

what did you mount your fuses on and how? is it necessary?

where is the alternator and how do i locate its positive when i find it?

 

[Sweet'n Low 10+ year member]

that flatbed is going to be niice. i've thought about that kinda thing a couple of times

 

[Sweet'n Low 10+ year member]

bump

 

[Sweet'n Low 10+ year member]

I can get more pictures if that helps..

 

[CougarGuy 10+ year member]

its all difficult to explain, you should take a notepad outside, pop the hood, and make notes at ideas and thoughts and different options and then make a decision mayne!

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

Couple Questions..



can you go into more detail about that? what voltage sensing wire?

how do you suggest i get to the transaxle for the engine block ground to chassis(or negative) upgrade? did you hook your new wire back up to the transaxle or find a new spot?

where is my negative battery ground?

what did you mount your fuses on and how? is it necessary?

where is the alternator and how do i locate its positive when i find it?

These are some pretty serious questions. The alternator is driven by the serpentine belt. Buy a Hayne's manual for your car so you can look up the locations of parts, and their installation/removal. Here is a thread that will explain the big 3 and how to make proper connections (with lots of pics):

http://forum.sounddomain.com/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1804618&page=1#Post1804618

I don't like the ground locations you showed. remove the battery and the battery tray. under the tray, on the frame, is a perfect ground location. you can trace the battery ground wire to find where it is attached, there may be more than one, the one to the frame is the one you upgrade, not the body.

 

[Sweet'n Low 10+ year member]

bump

much appreicate KHI. just looking for some more opinions to make sure. I'm thinking about taking it to someone tomorrow about looking at it.

 

[nateberrier 10+ year member]

take to to me brah, i should be free sunday if you have wire

 

[nateberrier 10+ year member]

how in the hell do you get to the alt. we can barely get to it and pulling the engine is no option