batcap vs kinetik

[blackbonnie 5,000+ posts]

batcap will be sufficient. i ran 2 20.1's of one batcap 2000 and the kinetik 1800 (about 4600 watts) and i never dropped below 13 volts, full tilt at 1k rpm's (idle = 600) either are very great bats, but i would run batcap as a second battery anyday over a kinetik. just due to there charge and discharge rate.

 

[king ranch 5,000+ posts]

ok then i will get a batcap2k in the back since its smaller was well and might be able to fit under back seat

so wat should i look into for a battery under the hood down the road

should i go with hc1400 or 1800 its only about a 35 dollar difference is it worth it or no

 

[528hz 10+ year member]

If you go with a Batcap in the back, go with one in the front too. I would do a 2000 under your hood too, or an 800.

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

no battery can recharge anywhere close to how fast as they discharge. 2 1500 watt amplifiers would never need more than 300 amps and that is over peaks. your .1ths of volts don't even account for an audible difference more than likely (i used to run accuvolts to keep my voltage at 14.2v on non regulated class AB amps and eventually stopped using them because the difference was not that noticeable to me ). Cracks me up when i see people swap out a good known 2000 watt amp to a 2500 watt amp and say "its so much louder" if you need a meter to tell you that you are louder and better then what is the value in a daily listening set up ? (1 full db is needed for perfect hearing to tell the slightest difference in volume) Are you going to drive around with a db meter? For me if i know my amplifiers will and can draw more than my alt puts out i would take capacity any day because if you are playing and drawing from your battery eventually the smaller battery will need a total recharge in a shorter time. In this situation though i think either battery would work well though.

 

[king ranch 5,000+ posts]

no battery can recharge anywhere close to how fast as they discharge. 2 1500 watt amplifiers would never need more than 300 amps and that is over peaks. your .1ths of volts don't even account for an audible difference more than likely (i used to run accuvolts to keep my voltage at 14.2v on non regulated class AB amps and eventually stopped using them because the difference was not that noticeable to me ). Cracks me up when i see people swap out a good known 2000 watt amp to a 2500 watt amp and say "its so much louder" if you need a meter to tell you that you are louder and better then what is the value in a daily listening set up ? (1 full db is needed for perfect hearing to tell the slightest difference in volume) Are you going to drive around with a db meter? For me if i know my amplifiers will and can draw more than my alt puts out i would take capacity any day because if you are playing and drawing from your battery eventually the smaller battery will need a total recharge in a shorter time. In this situation though i think either battery would work well though.

so on 2200-2400rms wat would be my amp draw current and also if i went with a batcap2k in the back what should i look into for the front if needed for now i can get away with just the batcap i think

also it might be the same price to get a 200amp alt instead of a new battery upfront and if so run my 200amp alt and batcap2k in the back and the gold duralast 1000amp battery upfront that should be fine right

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

if it were me i would get a hc1800 or hc2000 in the back (i do alot of stuff engine off though too) with the alt. if you already have the batcap 2000 that is good too along with the alt you should be good to go. when you mix battery techonologies agm (batcap and kinetik) with wet cells pay attention to resting voltages and if you are going toleave it parked for extended periods of time(few days-weeks) just unhook a fuse going back to the back battery. of course remember to put it back when you are ready to roll again. this will help stop the front battery from leaching off the back one.everything you have mentioned will work fine. just pay attention to the rear battery to make sure when it is installed that it is grounded and wired propperly because if it has a bad ground it can act very ..incorrectly lol

 

[king ranch 5,000+ posts]

ok well for now i am gonna get a batcap2k have big 3 done in 1/o my current 130amp alt and current gold duralast upfront and run 2 runs of 1/0 pos and neg to back battery and hook my amps pos and neg to the back battery will that work right

 

[king ranch 5,000+ posts]

batcap2k or hc2400 in the back

 

[king ranch 5,000+ posts]

bump

 

[HeadCase 10+ year member]

How well would it work out to have the duralast up front, and a kinetic AND batcap in the back? Or does that complicate things too much?

 

[king ranch 5,000+ posts]

no need for both in the back just a good one in the back and front as well i would think

 

[jrwalte 10+ year member]

You want to avoid mixing AGM with wet cell batteries if you can afford it. Wet cell's typically rest at a lower voltage than AGM and can drain the AGM when the engine isn't running, shortening its life.

 

[mazzasec 5,000+ posts]

ok so if i went with the batcap2k in the back and ran 1/0 pos and neg from the front, 130amp alt, big 3 in 1/0 and a gold duralast 1000amp upfront for now could i run my zx1500 and zx850 total around 2200-2400rms with no worries about frying the amp
wat would be the average voltage i would see with that

and also wat should i look into for under the hood down the road

4 channels hardly bring voltage down at all. So technically your total system wouldnt be around 2200-2400 rms. When I ran a 1500 watt amp @2ohm i got drops to 12.1 with stock electrical if ur running 1500 watts with big 3 and 1 batt you should do fine.