PolkSDA
Junior Member
I've spent the last few weeks reading both here and at a few other car audio forums, and it's basically information overload... so many options and conflicting opinions.
My vehicle is '13 Chevy Sonic sedan. I started by adding an amp to the factory install to see if it would make a noticeable difference, and it has: it's pointed out just how [CENSORED] the factory speakers are. Rather than replace the 6-speaker factory setup exactly, I've decided to go with components up front + a sub (disconnecting rears) rather than fronts + rears or fronts + rears + sub. No one ever rides in back anyway, and I hate muddiness. I prefer a clear well-defined soundstage.
If it matters, the front components I've decided on are the JBL MS-62c.
Now... sub options... where to begin. *sigh*
1. I listen to primarily hard rock and heavy metal.
2. I like the bass tight and fast, not muddy and bloated. I don't need to feel the car shake or sterilize the neighborhood dogs at 100 yards. I definitely fall into the SQ category as opposed to SPL.
3. I have ZERO ability with tools. None. Nada. Zippo. Zilch. Prefab is it.
4. I don't mind buying a "beginner setup" amp and sub without breaking the bank, and then once I have a modicum of cluefulness, upgrading down the line.
Noobish assumptions on my part:
1. Due to the way I like my bass, I'm thinking sealed rather than ported, and/or
2. Rather than a single 12 or 15, a pair of 10s will have faster response and recovery.
The two units I have been considering are the following:
1. JL Audio CS210-WXv2 Sealed BassWedge™ enclosure with two 10" WXv2 subwoofers at Crutchfield.com
Advantages: smaller of the two as far as physical footprint... would save me about 5.5 inches of depth in the trunk; presumably will be tighter than the other option. Disadvantages: Might require more power to achieve similar sound levels, is roughly double the cost of the other.
2. 800W Boston Acoustics 10" G110PD GTuned Series Loaded Enclosure
Advantages: According to reviews I've seen, may have better SQ than the JL; great bang for the buck... if I eff up in my choice it won't be the end of the world; to my understanding easier to drive. Disadvantages: ported rather than sealed so might not be as controlled as the JL; bigger box as far as depth.
Both boxes will fit in my trunk facing backwards.
Of the two, which would you recommend, and why? If there are alternative prefabs in the same price range, please by all means, I'm open to suggestions. I've deliberately avoided Kicker, Rockford Fosgate, etc., as there is virtually nothing good spoken about them on the various fora.
What about JBL's prefabs, e.g., GT-Basspro12? I realize it's one 12 vs two 10s. How would it compare to the above? It has an amplifier included as opposed to needing external amplification... which presumably could be a downside when upgrading down the line. I've also seen recommendations that that having an amp on or in a sub box really is not a good idea. True?
Next question... powering the sub(s). What does one need to be aware of re: powering one sub vs. two? I see that the JL Audio is 4 Ohms, the Boston Acoustics is 2 Ohms, how does that factor into the equation? What amp would you recommend in the $50-150 range for any of the above subs? Is it realistic to expect good clean power in that price range?
One thing (amongst many) that confuses me: I see people saying you shouldn't have an amp with too much power, or "overpowering" speakers and subs. Is that really the case? My experience with home theater tells me there's no such thing as too much power, as long as it is good clean power. In fact, you have a lower chance of blowing something if you are giving plenty of power than if it is underpowered. What kills speakers and clips amps in my experience is distortion... whether I'm giving speakers 5 watts or 500, the key is to never push the speaker to the point of distortion... and it's easier to distort with lower powered amplification. All things being equal, greater power will (usually) give greater clarity, better separation and soundstage, and better bass extension. I have Denon and Marantz receivers in my HT setups, and in both cases I'm using preamp outs to Carver or Phase Linear vintage amps... 200-400 watts per channel even when the speakers are only "rated" at 100 wpc; it makes for a HUGE increase in performance.
You just know to never push volume levels to distortion.
Is that not the case with car audio? Is it more critical to "match" wattage ratings of car speakers, subs, and their respective amps? It seems to fly in the face of what I've always thought was the case. I must be missing something.
Thank you for wading through my noobishness... if you've made it all the way to the bottom before rolling your eyes and exiting, I greatly appreciate it.
My vehicle is '13 Chevy Sonic sedan. I started by adding an amp to the factory install to see if it would make a noticeable difference, and it has: it's pointed out just how [CENSORED] the factory speakers are. Rather than replace the 6-speaker factory setup exactly, I've decided to go with components up front + a sub (disconnecting rears) rather than fronts + rears or fronts + rears + sub. No one ever rides in back anyway, and I hate muddiness. I prefer a clear well-defined soundstage.
If it matters, the front components I've decided on are the JBL MS-62c.
Now... sub options... where to begin. *sigh*
1. I listen to primarily hard rock and heavy metal.
2. I like the bass tight and fast, not muddy and bloated. I don't need to feel the car shake or sterilize the neighborhood dogs at 100 yards. I definitely fall into the SQ category as opposed to SPL.
3. I have ZERO ability with tools. None. Nada. Zippo. Zilch. Prefab is it.
4. I don't mind buying a "beginner setup" amp and sub without breaking the bank, and then once I have a modicum of cluefulness, upgrading down the line.
Noobish assumptions on my part:
1. Due to the way I like my bass, I'm thinking sealed rather than ported, and/or
2. Rather than a single 12 or 15, a pair of 10s will have faster response and recovery.
The two units I have been considering are the following:
1. JL Audio CS210-WXv2 Sealed BassWedge™ enclosure with two 10" WXv2 subwoofers at Crutchfield.com
Advantages: smaller of the two as far as physical footprint... would save me about 5.5 inches of depth in the trunk; presumably will be tighter than the other option. Disadvantages: Might require more power to achieve similar sound levels, is roughly double the cost of the other.
2. 800W Boston Acoustics 10" G110PD GTuned Series Loaded Enclosure
Advantages: According to reviews I've seen, may have better SQ than the JL; great bang for the buck... if I eff up in my choice it won't be the end of the world; to my understanding easier to drive. Disadvantages: ported rather than sealed so might not be as controlled as the JL; bigger box as far as depth.
Both boxes will fit in my trunk facing backwards.
Of the two, which would you recommend, and why? If there are alternative prefabs in the same price range, please by all means, I'm open to suggestions. I've deliberately avoided Kicker, Rockford Fosgate, etc., as there is virtually nothing good spoken about them on the various fora.
What about JBL's prefabs, e.g., GT-Basspro12? I realize it's one 12 vs two 10s. How would it compare to the above? It has an amplifier included as opposed to needing external amplification... which presumably could be a downside when upgrading down the line. I've also seen recommendations that that having an amp on or in a sub box really is not a good idea. True?
Next question... powering the sub(s). What does one need to be aware of re: powering one sub vs. two? I see that the JL Audio is 4 Ohms, the Boston Acoustics is 2 Ohms, how does that factor into the equation? What amp would you recommend in the $50-150 range for any of the above subs? Is it realistic to expect good clean power in that price range?
One thing (amongst many) that confuses me: I see people saying you shouldn't have an amp with too much power, or "overpowering" speakers and subs. Is that really the case? My experience with home theater tells me there's no such thing as too much power, as long as it is good clean power. In fact, you have a lower chance of blowing something if you are giving plenty of power than if it is underpowered. What kills speakers and clips amps in my experience is distortion... whether I'm giving speakers 5 watts or 500, the key is to never push the speaker to the point of distortion... and it's easier to distort with lower powered amplification. All things being equal, greater power will (usually) give greater clarity, better separation and soundstage, and better bass extension. I have Denon and Marantz receivers in my HT setups, and in both cases I'm using preamp outs to Carver or Phase Linear vintage amps... 200-400 watts per channel even when the speakers are only "rated" at 100 wpc; it makes for a HUGE increase in performance.
You just know to never push volume levels to distortion.
Is that not the case with car audio? Is it more critical to "match" wattage ratings of car speakers, subs, and their respective amps? It seems to fly in the face of what I've always thought was the case. I must be missing something.
Thank you for wading through my noobishness... if you've made it all the way to the bottom before rolling your eyes and exiting, I greatly appreciate it.
