anyone run sytems without sound deadener?

I currently have my trunk lid, and my passenger door sound deadened with Dynamat Extreme. It's not a bad price on sonixelectronics for a bulk pack. The difference between my two front doors is noticeable with Dynamat. The midbass is smooth and louder. On my trunk, it didn't totally eliminate rattle, but to the point where it just sounds like a little clicking is happening, nothing that would embarrass you. I think it's worth it.

 
get the stuff from lowes or home depot, IIRC 15 bucks a roll and it covers a decent amount. but honestly I have like 3 layers in my doors and trunk, not much difference.

 
does anyone in here perferably with cars and trunks run subs with no sound deadener... i have recently just gotten into "the game" and cant see to talk my way into droppin 100+ bucks on this
Whether you do or not I guess it just depends on how it sounds to you.

How's my amp?

 
I don't use deadener to help with rattles. I use it to help with resonance of panels, which can help with rattles, but there are much better and cheaper ways to eliminate rattles.

"Acoustic treatments" are great.

 
Only in my first setup from a flea market probably about 5 years ago. Raammat has a good price on a roll of their thicker stuff now. Like 110 shipped. My replacement ride is still being refurbished in the shop and I already ordered a roll.

I never got to deaden my rear doors, floor, or roof on my galant, but doing the trunk and sealing the doors was a Huge difference. Get a roll, some denatured alcohol (clean surfaces b4 sticky), and a roller from the tile department of home depot. A good install with decent equipment is better than a crap install with the most expensive gear money can buy. Do your doors b4 your trunk.

 
if i could go back to my first install i would have used o ga and deadener. trust me without it your interior panels will rattle and its also rough on your trunk lid and wing

 
buy deadener. you wont regret it.

hell i have 30 sq ft per door on my car //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif i use raammat though so its a little cheaper but pretty good bang for you buck. i'll be using second skin or sound deadener show down stuff next

 
I dont run any and Im in the market for some,trust me it makes a world of difference.Im running 2500+ watts and my entire suv just sounds like its going to fall apart,and to an extent it does lol.you cannot hear the rattle inside of course because its outweighed but on the outside,all the flex just sounds bad.Alot of the homeboys around here say "if it aint rattlin it aint real" but please do yourself a favor and dont live by that lol.

 
I have absolutely non in my car and it doesnt't rattle or vibrate at all!

Well.. I do have a stock Bose system right now, and it is decently treated from the factory, but still..

To me, there are 2 things that should be done prior to installing any high end aftermarket audio system.

Electrical upgrades

-Alternator

-Big 3

Sound Deadening

-Vibration damping

-Isolation gasketing

Thats just me though

ANT

 
After deadening my doors, I **** you not, it improved my midrange/midbass x100. I sealed off all gapping factory holes,deadedned the crap out of it, and it sounds beautiful. Imagine having a POS sub enclosure, throwing 500-1000 rms to it. That enclosure has airleaks, it creaks and all around sounds like garbage. Now imagine a sub enclosure that is air tight, built to specs,and sounds really lovely. That there is the difference that deadening my doors made. Just look at your doors being an enclosure for your mids, treat them that way, and you will be very happy. The same goes for the rest of your car. It is not by an means a waste of money.

 
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