Anyone Know Where I Can Get A High Power Alternator???? like 400amp??

[AdidasRage16 10+ year member]

Anyone Know Where I Can Get A High Power Alternator???? like 400amp??

Well i need ad upgraded Alternator for my Nissan Maxima. If you have any website that might be some help to me please let me know. Thanks for you time.

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[paikiah 5,000+ posts]

www.h-o-alternators.com

I thinkit'd be a better option to get dual 220A alts than to get a single 440A.

BTW, the higher the amps out of an alt, the lower it might be during idle, so having a high amp load might not be TOO good a thing.

 

[AdidasRage16 10+ year member]

I went to the wbsite and there is like no way to order one unless you are a dealership or a Dealer? do you think you could help me out there?

 

[Matador 10+ year member]

why u want a 440A alt?

how much power n wat amps r u gonna be runnin?

 

[maniackilla 10+ year member]

www.h-o-alternators.com
I thinkit'd be a better option to get dual 220A alts than to get a single 440A.

BTW, the higher the amps out of an alt, the lower it might be during idle, so having a high amp load might not be TOO good a thing.

where do u put a 2nd alt? just run wire and sit it somewhere or what? me = teh newb!!11one

 

[geolemon 10+ year member]

There's a bunch of things to consider, when purchasing any alternator.

My guess is that you aren't, simply based on the astronomical amperage figure that you are inquiring about.

One has already been mentioned... sure, that might be a 200a alternator, but it may not even be close to 200a at idle, in fact it may be about what your stock alternator was. Something obviously to consider - the RPM/ampacity curve of the alternator. Request it.

Secondly, you might not be considering the extra drag on your engine...

"Energy is neither created nor destroyed".. sound familiar?

Electricity comes from the drag of the windings in the magnetic field... the only way to increase the electricity is to proportionally increase the effort required to turn the alternator. You may not realize how difficult it is to turn an alternator, or how much horsepower that it consumes off your engine, but it is significant.

I'm not sure what size your motor is, but for a car that is actually driven, you could potentially leave a small 4 cylinder motor driving in the slow lane, or make a larger motor simply perform like it was a little 4 cylinder (while still using the same amount of gas to do it).

It takes power to make power... horsepower to produce amperage. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

Finally, I'd be worried that you fundamentally aren't sizing up your system properly...

For example, looking at your fuses, summing them up, and declaring "THAT'S how much current I'm going to need to support!" //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif

There are many factors involved in determining how much amperage you need:

You need to consider the music you are playing, and the average current draw for that music...

For example, picture a track with a bass drum going "thump.... thump.... thump...".

Only during the instant of the "thump", is the amp going to be sending power to the speaker, and therefore drawing power from the car. Even if you had your volume cranked, and your gains set high, the "thump"s would be the only time the car drew max current. And if you measured it, you'd see that even the max (peak) current draw would generally be lower than your actual fuse rating.

Speaking of "volume", the power output from your amp is going to be proportional to your volume knob setting, also. Realistically, you couldn't be in a car with so much power that it required a 440a alternator, at full volume.

Even if those peaks do well exceed your alternator's capacity, it's no big deal...

The extra current is drawn from the battery, which recharges between "thump"s, while there isn't current being drawn.

The only negative is that your car's voltage level is brought down from the alternator's 14.4v level down to the battery's 12.3v level, so you will sometimes see some light dimmage (since lights are brighter on 14.4v than on 12.3v //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif).

You should upgrade your alternator if your average current draw (accounting for all those factors.. typical volume levels, typical music, etc) exceeds your alternator's capabilities, because in those cases your battery will be in a state of discharge more often than recharge, and your voltage will slowly (depending on the differential) drop as the battery is drained. Not good.

But how much would you need to upgrade the alternator to rectify this situation? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif

When you average all those factors together...

Typical operating volume... average current draw... differential between "peak" current draw from amp, and fuse rating... your tolerance for lost horsepower... monitoring battery voltage at the beginning and end of typical use...

I'd be willing to bet you wouldn't need to upgrade anywhere near 440a - if at all, even.

 

[AdidasRage16 10+ year member]

thanks for the info. i have a better idea of what i'm going to do now, i think i might get and extra battery ad see how that goes. The amp i'm going to be running is the orion 2500d amp, and it needs 300 amps of current a second when at all the way up. What do ya'll think?

 

[Slaymon 10+ year member]

Well from the looks of your setup you'd only be running your amp at half power. The sub is dual 4 ohm which will lead to a 2 ohm load. The amp is rated 2500 watts at 1 ohm. Unless that amp is rated at 2500 at 2 ohms you won't expect it to pull the full power it needs.

 

[geolemon 10+ year member]

thanks for the info. i have a better idea of what i'm going to do now, i think i might get and extra battery ad see how that goes. The amp i'm going to be running is the orion 2500d amp, and it needs 300 amps of current a second when at all the way up. What do ya'll think?

Not true at all, unless you are playing pure, continuous sine-waves that are recorded at the maximum 0dB reference level, at absolute maximum volume.

Real music is much more dynamic, and your current draw will reflect that.

No sense penalizing your HP and wallet for a sine wave that you might play at competition or something, a burp lasting a few seconds, every few weeks or so...

Even bass music isn't that bad.

Orion recommends a 240a external fuse for that amp apparently... which would imply only 70% efficiency, I'd guess it would even be better, but I don't know... I believe this is the sister of the DEI (er, Viper) 2500D.

If you DID have a pure sine wave track recorded at 0dB level, and you DID have it playing at absolute full volume, and even if it DID draw 240a, you probably couldn't stand it for more than a few seconds... we aren't talking about a "continuous" situation here.

And even BASS music is more dynamic...

Take that absolute full-bore sine wave, and stick it in a bass track... bass CD's aren't continuous tones... let's say the strong bass is present in the music 50% of the time (and I mean full, continuous, 0dB reference level, the whole shot)...

Now, the average current draw of that amp is only 120a.

Or let's say you have the original pure sine-wave CD, and for some reason you were going to listen to it for hours... an actual continuous scenario.

But you have the volume only halfway up, rather than full bore.

Know what? your amp - capable of drawing 240a - is only drawing an average of less than 60a now... because of how power and output relate (it takes a 4x increase in power to effect a 2x increase in output, and in reality it's even more, due to inefficiencies like power compression in a speaker).

But realistically you wouldn't have the pure-sine wave tones in there continuously, or you'd be one dull person.. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

You've got the bass CD in there, listening to it... but you'd probably go deaf at full output level, and/or your subs might not be able to take that much power. So, you don't have the volume up to maximum crank... you've got the volume halfway up.

So... amp capable of drawing 240a..

With some real hard-core bass music (same 50% 'duty cycle' on the bass as above), 120a at full bore...

With the volume up only halfway, you're looking at about 30a of current draw.

So you see some hottie, and turn it up to 3/4, say, that's all your subs can handle, you're ears hurt, but she's looking... at 3/4 volume you're looking at an average of only 75a of current draw, with that bass CD.

And how long do you have it at that level, also?

"duty cycle" is an important thing to consider, in all those ways... whether that's how often a bass signal is present in the music, how loud that signal is (or, the average level of the signal is more to the point), what percentage of the time you have the volume cranked, how much power your subwoofer system actually needs to reach full output, etc...

Bottom line is, what's the average current draw? And not even in your listening time, but in your driving time, for that matter. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

[paikiah 5,000+ posts]

you can always count on geolemon to give you an in-depth (sometimes overkill but still makes sense later down the road) information on what you need.

About the alts, also talk with Jose of H-O alts, and see what he can offer you. As for price quotes, you can email or call them.

 

[nswartley 5,000+ posts]

geolemon is the man.

if i ate a piece of your brain would i get smarter? i'll give you 2 dollars a pound.

-nate

 

[jbl_marshall21 10+ year member]

so how big of alot does this dude need? 200, 220?