Anyone have experience with JL C5-650cw?

[sjv13 10+ year member]

I'm thinking about running the JL C5-650cw midbass woofers in my rear doors. I currently have only a front stage and a sub so I think these would add some punchy midbass to my set up. Just wondering if anyone knows anything about them.

-Should I get them?

-Would 75wrms be enough (they're rated for 25-150rms)?

-Should I run them bandpass or just lpf?

The frequency response is 48-5kHz. I don't want the high frequencies to interfere with my front stage. And since the response's lowest range is 48, does that mean it wont even try to play below 48, or it just doesn't do it well?

Any information on these would be awesome! Thanks!

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[murph 10+ year member]

They are rated at 75rms a woofer. They are very laid back drivers. They sound nice but, need to be properly matched to a tweeter or else you will hate it.

 

[sjv13 10+ year member]

They are rated at 75rms a woofer. They are very laid back drivers. They sound nice but, need to be properly matched to a tweeter or else you will hate it.

EDIT: Ok. So they wouldnt work well just in the rear doors to add some midbass in the 80-200hz range?

 

[murph 10+ year member]

EDIT: Ok. So they wouldnt work well just in the rear doors to add some midbass in the 80-200hz range?

Boss, I know what they are and JL has the rms rating for a set. JL Audio C5-650cw (c5650cw) 6-1/2" Component Midwoofer with

It is 75 rms a woofer 150 rms for a set of woofers.

 

[sjv13 10+ year member]

Boss, I know what they are and JL has the rms rating for a set. JL Audio C5-650cw (c5650cw) 6-1/2" Component Midwoofer with
It is 75 rms a woofer 150 rms for a set of woofers.

Yeah. I realized I'm an idiot so I edited my post. So you dont think these would be good by themselves in the rear door to add midbass?

 

[murph 10+ year member]

Yeah. I realized I'm an idiot so I edited my post. So you dont think these would be good by themselves in the rear door to add midbass?

They are excellent drivers. They do not have powerful midbass, they are very flat across the spectrum which is why I said they are laid back. If you want a lot of midbass these are not for you. These are very balanced drivers but, should not be expected to add some boom to your midbass.

 

[sjv13 10+ year member]

They are excellent drivers. They do not have powerful midbass, they are very flat across the spectrum which is why I said they are laid back. If you want a lot of midbass these are not for you. These are very balanced drivers but, should not be expected to add some boom to your midbass.

What would you suggest that I go with then? I'd like to stay under $300 if at all possible.

 

[murph 10+ year member]

[quote name='sjv13']What would you suggest that I go with then? I'd like to stay under $300 if at all possible.[/QUOTE]

Hit up @mylows10 ; if you want something with some heavier midbass.

 

[zako 10+ year member]

The frequency response is 48-5kHz. I don't want the high frequencies to interfere with my front stage. And since the response's lowest range is 48, does that mean it wont even try to play below 48, or it just doesn't do it well?

Let me tell you that "frequency response" is one of the most misunderstood and misquoted speaker specs, and yet, it's very simple to understand.

Frequency response is the longest range within frequency response spectrum such that the speaker output stays within a narrow band (usually 1dB or 3dB wide) playing a test signal with low power fixed at 1 watt with the speaker in free air install. Does this means that the speaker will have no output below 48? No, it will severely roll off though. Does this mean that "frequency response" is even relevant in real world? It's an important spec, but you shouldn't take it literally. First, the speaker will not necessarily respond to high power in a linear way. Second, you run out of motor force and mechanical excursion at low frequencies. Send a 50Hz test tone with voltage equivalent of 75watts, and the speaker will probably hit its back plate. All of this should teach you that this is not a very meaningful spec.

Next, why on earth you need to add a 6.5 inch speaker for more punch. At frequencies below 80Hz, your subwoofer will easily dwarf and drown the bass played by small woofers. Moreover, your subwoofer should be more than capable of delivering a good punch. In my experience with car audio, managing the excess punch of a subwoofer has always been a headache. In your case, make sure your subwoofers low pass crossover setting is not too aggressive. Want more punch? Move the LP up to 80Hz or higher. Make sure the subwoofer is roughly in phase with the front speaker, or they may cancel some output in the overlapping regions.

Also the price, of C5 seems a bit high considering you need it just for midbass. If I needed a woofer for narrow midbass band, I'd probably get a set of Massive Audio CK6, possibly used, and then use just the woofers. Of course, if you don't bandpass the woofers, then they will play the vocal frequency range too. You want to have both, low and high pass filters with a midbass speaker, as you don't want either sub bass or midrange frequencies played by it.

 

[sjv13 10+ year member]

Let me tell you that "frequency response" is one of the most misunderstood and misquoted speaker specs, and yet, it's very simple to understand.
Frequency response is the longest range within frequency response spectrum such that the speaker output stays within a narrow band (usually 1dB or 3dB wide) playing a test signal with low power fixed at 1 watt with the speaker in free air install. Does this means that the speaker will have no output below 48? No, it will severely roll off though. Does this mean that "frequency response" is even relevant in real world? It's an important spec, but you shouldn't take it literally. First, the speaker will not necessarily respond to high power in a linear way. Second, you run out of motor force and mechanical excursion at low frequencies. Send a 50Hz test tone with voltage equivalent of 75watts, and the speaker will probably hit its back plate. All of this should teach you that this is not a very meaningful spec.

Next, why on earth you need to add a 6.5 inch speaker for more punch. At frequencies below 80Hz, your subwoofer will easily dwarf and drown the bass played by small woofers. Moreover, your subwoofer should be more than capable of delivering a good punch. In my experience with car audio, managing the excess punch of a subwoofer has always been a headache. In your case, make sure your subwoofers low pass crossover setting is not too aggressive. Want more punch? Move the LP up to 80Hz or higher. Make sure the subwoofer is roughly in phase with the front speaker, or they may cancel some output in the overlapping regions.

Also the price, of C5 seems a bit high considering you need it just for midbass. If I needed a woofer for narrow midbass band, I'd probably get a set of Massive Audio CK6, possibly used, and then use just the woofers. Of course, if you don't bandpass the woofers, then they will play the vocal frequency range too. You want to have both, low and high pass filters with a midbass speaker, as you don't want either sub bass or midrange frequencies played by it.

Thanks for the detailed reply. It's good to know what frequency response really means. And the reason I'm wanting to add something to rear doors is because there is a punch in the back of the seat that's lacking. I used to use a Alpine 45x4 power pack and powered all the door speakers (front and rear). Now, I use a Polk 75x4 and bi-amp my front stage. There is a certain kick/punch that I lost when I upgraded. It was the type of hit that I noticed in rock songs when the drummer uses the kick drum. It's just not there are much anymore. And so I figured if my stock speakers from 2000 were able to produce that feel, then a dedicated midbass woofer from JL would be able to do it even better. Right? I talked to mylows10 and he suggested something like this: CDT Audio Subwoofers: QES 680. He said the pair would be $310 shipped. Seems to me like those would do well and perform a whole lot better than the JL woofers. I'd have to do a little bit of work to get them to fit and sound as good as possible, but I'm up for the challenge.

EDIT: Only problem I have is that I can only run them HPF, LPF, or no filter. Obviously hpf isnt the right way to go. So they would only have a lpf on them. Also, I should mention that I'll be un-bi-amping my front stage in order to free up 2 channels for the CDTs so they'll be on 75rms each.