KaeZoo
10+ year member
CarAudio.com Elite
What kind of vehicle is it, and which remote start?
t-rex audio
10+ year member
Senior VIP Member
x2
- Thread Starter
- #4
Im actually looking for just a generic briefing on all makes/models. There is a small place hiring around the corner from me. Pays good money. Im just looking to read up on all the ins and outs of installing one.
KaeZoo
10+ year member
CarAudio.com Elite
Basically a remote start is just a set of relays that provide power to the ignition wires at the right times to start and run the vehicle. To install one you need to understand how an ignition switch works; know how to use a multimeter to identify the function of vehicle wires; understand how relays work; and be familiar with vehicle anti-theft systems like Passlock and transponder keys. Some vehicles are much harder than others.
- Thread Starter
- #6
On a scale of 1-10.... what difficultly level would you say it is?
I dont trust myself enough to do it. It wouldnt be bad if someone who knew it guide you through. It took about 3 hours for two guys to install it in my car. If you're doing it for experience to be an installer, I think you might need more than that.
Decipha
10+ year member
www.EFI Dyno Tuning.com
I've done it on 2 of my beretta's also on a 97 grand prix, 94 chevy astro, 2002 ford explorer, 98 dodge intrepid, and a 96 gmc jimmy. It's not hard at all.. just get under the steering column... follow your ignition wires that go to the ignition switch. I like to use a blade to cut off some of the insulation rather than splicing in to the wire, makes for a cleaner look and not hacked up wires, but thats just my preference. You'll need a DMM, conviently most of the time the red wire is a constant +, i usually use this to power the remote start unit... anyway... slice one wire at a time and use the DMM to see which wire it is. Most cars have 2 ignition wires, one controls the ignition coils, and the other usually controls the a/c, alternator, etc... Some imports have 3 ignition wires, I couldn't tell you though I have never personally done a remote start on an import. I can help you out step by step and I'd be more than happy to via telephone since you might need some help along the way... just shoot me a PM and I'll give you my tele #
not hard at all. are you familiar with a DMM? if so, the instructions for most (I know all DEI systems) will brief you on how to find which wire is which. Hardest wire in a remote start is the tach wire, but once you've installed one or two that becomes fairly easy. Use google to try and find a wiring schematic for your car.
You'll have to run a wire from the engine bay to your cabin for the hood pinswitch, find your brake wire, your tachometer wire (or if your unit allows for it, you can hook this wire up and use a voltage instead of tach), one or more 12v constant wires, find a place to ground the unit, find an ignition wire, and maybe an accessory wire. the last 3 wires will be large gauge wires (10g or so) located under your drivers side dash and will go up into the steering column/that general area.
you'll strip back the large wires one at a time to see what they are. (in my experience, red is USUALLY 12v constant, orange/yellows/whites/pinks are the ignition and accessory wires). take your dmm, and probe the wire. if it reads ~12v with the keys out of the ignition, in the ignition, and car running(it'll be more like ~14v with the car running), it is a constant 12v source. if it reads ~12v only when the keys are turned forward, and MAINTAINS ~12V THROUGH the cranking cycle when your start your car, it is an ignition wire. if it loses voltage during the cranking cycle and regains it after the car is running, it is an accessory wire. when you find your tach wire (it'll usually be around the coils, or near the guages; but try to find a schematic online; it helps a ton when ur starting out), you'll need to probe it. in a large majority of cars, it will read ~6v, during the cranking cycle and while the engine is running. your brake wire will read ground when the brake is depressed.
Depending what type of car you have, you may need to bypass the factory immobilizer (it keeps the car from running when an unauthorized starting attempt is made, by disabling either the fuel system, ignition system, or both). If you need one of these the shop your working at will provide it.
Any more questions just let me know; I think i covered most points of installing a remote start.
Keyless entry is a little more complex, but not by much. just figuring out the type of doorlock system, how to tap into it, tying into the factory alarm if its there, and some other shit.
go to http://www.bcae1.com, and read the section about relays and the section about diodes; you'll need to understand them both if you get into more complex installs.
You'll have to run a wire from the engine bay to your cabin for the hood pinswitch, find your brake wire, your tachometer wire (or if your unit allows for it, you can hook this wire up and use a voltage instead of tach), one or more 12v constant wires, find a place to ground the unit, find an ignition wire, and maybe an accessory wire. the last 3 wires will be large gauge wires (10g or so) located under your drivers side dash and will go up into the steering column/that general area.
you'll strip back the large wires one at a time to see what they are. (in my experience, red is USUALLY 12v constant, orange/yellows/whites/pinks are the ignition and accessory wires). take your dmm, and probe the wire. if it reads ~12v with the keys out of the ignition, in the ignition, and car running(it'll be more like ~14v with the car running), it is a constant 12v source. if it reads ~12v only when the keys are turned forward, and MAINTAINS ~12V THROUGH the cranking cycle when your start your car, it is an ignition wire. if it loses voltage during the cranking cycle and regains it after the car is running, it is an accessory wire. when you find your tach wire (it'll usually be around the coils, or near the guages; but try to find a schematic online; it helps a ton when ur starting out), you'll need to probe it. in a large majority of cars, it will read ~6v, during the cranking cycle and while the engine is running. your brake wire will read ground when the brake is depressed.
Depending what type of car you have, you may need to bypass the factory immobilizer (it keeps the car from running when an unauthorized starting attempt is made, by disabling either the fuel system, ignition system, or both). If you need one of these the shop your working at will provide it.
Any more questions just let me know; I think i covered most points of installing a remote start.
Keyless entry is a little more complex, but not by much. just figuring out the type of doorlock system, how to tap into it, tying into the factory alarm if its there, and some other shit.
go to http://www.bcae1.com, and read the section about relays and the section about diodes; you'll need to understand them both if you get into more complex installs.
****, i believe thats my longest post on CA ever; look accurate to you, decipha?
Decipha
10+ year member
www.EFI Dyno Tuning.com
sounds good maldecido33
oomeskoo... how did it go?
oomeskoo... how did it go?
- Thread Starter
- #12
Somewhat of alright... lol. I have the Keyless entry figured out. But the **** remote start part.... forget about it. I gave up.
Nice read here.
BTW you folks are hella cool.
That one dude would've given his phone # just to help out.
When i do my shit i'll let ya'll know //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif
i'm glad i found this site!!!!!!!!!!!
BTW you folks are hella cool.
That one dude would've given his phone # just to help out.
When i do my shit i'll let ya'll know //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif
i'm glad i found this site!!!!!!!!!!!
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