Amp blowing/melting fuses after remote gain install.... Wtf!
- Thread starter sethbuckner
- Live activity
- Replies 6
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hatedonmostly
5,000+ posts
throwin' hunnits, hunnits
Sounds like you fried the amp
- Thread Starter
- #3
how would connecting a remote gain made for the amp cause this? BTW i just opened the amp up and i can't see anything wrong with the guts.
w00tah
10+ year member
Captain Keffa
Power/ground backwards?
Only thing I can think of.
Kef
Only thing I can think of.
Kef
Yea BUMP this **** because the same **** happens to me..I didnt connect the remote gain knob but I'm having the same problem.
Everytime I flip my toggle switch(connected on my remote wire) to turn the amp on all 4 fuses blow. Wether I use four 40amp fuses or four 30 amp fuses, the fuses still pop. What I'm confused about is that the BLUE LED Power indicator light luminates on for 3-4 seconds, all the lights in my car dim really low, the battery light comes on and then all the fuses pop and afterwards all the lights and battery level go back to normal. I've made sure I tried both, My car off (So it only made 12.1 volts) and with my car on (Roughly 14.7-15.0 volts). I have a decent amount of electrical upgrades including a 240 amp alternator, 4awg 22" long Alternator to Aux Power Wire, Stage 1 Volt booster (+0.6 volts), Optima Yellow Top (Only under hood for car, no 2nd one in trunk), The Yellow Top grounded with the factory side post connection, Another 0awg ground from battery to ground and for overkill 1 more 4awg ground from battery to car, 2awg power wire, 2 seperate 2awg grounds in rear for Amp and a 5 farad capicator which I have disconnected for now since I had thought possibly the 8awg output wire was too small. Thats way too many power upgrades for an amp pulling 160 amps and a 200amp main fuse. I've tried both speakers connected, only one speaker connected, no speakers connected, with and without RCA's and for **** and giggles even tried plugging the RCAs horizontal instead of vertical because the amp doesnt have red/white connectors and doesnt really paint a picture of whats input and output. So I've tried that, I've tried a 2awg ground and a 1/0awg ground. Its in the same spot under my seat which I'm not 100% convinced it's the best absolute spot but the spot where it's grounded worked fine for my 1100 watt amp that was pulling 120 amps. This new amp is pulling 160 amps and roughly 1600-1700watts RMS but when I checked around online I saw that 2awg wire was sufficent enough because it was only 15-16' of power wire. I haven't tested the voltage of the RCA's yet which I'm going to try today. I wanted to also ask if anyone thought the remote wire could be the culprate. The amp only pops the fuses when the remote is applied but even with the remote off, it still gives me that initial first spark when inserting the 1st fuse after pulling out and beginning to replace them with new ones. The remote wire is probably like 22awg and has a half *** done switch inserted on the wire. I am certain that none of the wires are touching but not so sure if along with a bigger amp, I need a bigger remote wire. I've had alot of amps and alot of systems in my day all around 1200 watts so I've never had 1500+ watts and I thought with everything done that it should of been good enough. I guess I was wrong. I have grounded the **** out of everything now so I think I can finally check off "Check Grounds" from my list. If it were to possibly be the RCA's would the amp still pop the fuses if the RCA's weren't connected? Even with the RCA's and speaker wire not connected, not once has the protection light ever came on and the guy who I bought the amp from had it working all the way up until the second he removed it from his car and even had a witness to the amp working. If anyone has any idea's I'd love to hear them because right now I'm under the impression, somewhere along my road to adding all this electrical stuff to my car I might have accidently swapped polarity on a few wires causing a little smoke here and there and some blown fuses in the car which I'm not really ashamed to admit because I think everyone's done it once or twice in my life and the connection I did it on was next to a aux power red connector and this one had a black wire going to it and the big mistake part was the "Aux Pos" red cover that had gone on it was removed when my car was rebuilt after my accident. WHO PUTS AN "AUX POWER" and "AUX POS" RIGHT NEXT TO EACHOTHER WITH NO GROUNDS! lol Please Help me!
Everytime I flip my toggle switch(connected on my remote wire) to turn the amp on all 4 fuses blow. Wether I use four 40amp fuses or four 30 amp fuses, the fuses still pop. What I'm confused about is that the BLUE LED Power indicator light luminates on for 3-4 seconds, all the lights in my car dim really low, the battery light comes on and then all the fuses pop and afterwards all the lights and battery level go back to normal. I've made sure I tried both, My car off (So it only made 12.1 volts) and with my car on (Roughly 14.7-15.0 volts). I have a decent amount of electrical upgrades including a 240 amp alternator, 4awg 22" long Alternator to Aux Power Wire, Stage 1 Volt booster (+0.6 volts), Optima Yellow Top (Only under hood for car, no 2nd one in trunk), The Yellow Top grounded with the factory side post connection, Another 0awg ground from battery to ground and for overkill 1 more 4awg ground from battery to car, 2awg power wire, 2 seperate 2awg grounds in rear for Amp and a 5 farad capicator which I have disconnected for now since I had thought possibly the 8awg output wire was too small. Thats way too many power upgrades for an amp pulling 160 amps and a 200amp main fuse. I've tried both speakers connected, only one speaker connected, no speakers connected, with and without RCA's and for **** and giggles even tried plugging the RCAs horizontal instead of vertical because the amp doesnt have red/white connectors and doesnt really paint a picture of whats input and output. So I've tried that, I've tried a 2awg ground and a 1/0awg ground. Its in the same spot under my seat which I'm not 100% convinced it's the best absolute spot but the spot where it's grounded worked fine for my 1100 watt amp that was pulling 120 amps. This new amp is pulling 160 amps and roughly 1600-1700watts RMS but when I checked around online I saw that 2awg wire was sufficent enough because it was only 15-16' of power wire. I haven't tested the voltage of the RCA's yet which I'm going to try today. I wanted to also ask if anyone thought the remote wire could be the culprate. The amp only pops the fuses when the remote is applied but even with the remote off, it still gives me that initial first spark when inserting the 1st fuse after pulling out and beginning to replace them with new ones. The remote wire is probably like 22awg and has a half *** done switch inserted on the wire. I am certain that none of the wires are touching but not so sure if along with a bigger amp, I need a bigger remote wire. I've had alot of amps and alot of systems in my day all around 1200 watts so I've never had 1500+ watts and I thought with everything done that it should of been good enough. I guess I was wrong. I have grounded the **** out of everything now so I think I can finally check off "Check Grounds" from my list. If it were to possibly be the RCA's would the amp still pop the fuses if the RCA's weren't connected? Even with the RCA's and speaker wire not connected, not once has the protection light ever came on and the guy who I bought the amp from had it working all the way up until the second he removed it from his car and even had a witness to the amp working. If anyone has any idea's I'd love to hear them because right now I'm under the impression, somewhere along my road to adding all this electrical stuff to my car I might have accidently swapped polarity on a few wires causing a little smoke here and there and some blown fuses in the car which I'm not really ashamed to admit because I think everyone's done it once or twice in my life and the connection I did it on was next to a aux power red connector and this one had a black wire going to it and the big mistake part was the "Aux Pos" red cover that had gone on it was removed when my car was rebuilt after my accident. WHO PUTS AN "AUX POWER" and "AUX POS" RIGHT NEXT TO EACHOTHER WITH NO GROUNDS! lol Please Help me!
all i see are letters in that last post... i cant figure it out //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif blablablajargonjargonjargonstfustfustfu
yea too long. give us the readers digest version. good try tho
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