Alt Amperage size?

[bamaboy 5,000+ posts]

alright, i need a new alt, because just listening to songs on my computer and listening to them in my vehicle, i can tell the bass goes up and down in my vehicle, its loud then it goes soft, then i change songs and then bass hits its loud and goes back soft, it dosent do it on my computer so its my electrical, and it didnt do it when i installed my new batt untill the batt ran out of its fresh juice and my alt cant charge it back to where it was, so ima get a new alt

now what size alt

1: 200a small case alt (starts charging at about 750rpms)

2: 200a large case (starts charging at 600rpms)

3:250a large case

there is about a 30-40$ difference betweeneach one give or take a few$$$

i need to power my Power acoustik a3000db(i need about 1800 or so watts out of it) and my pa ov2-400(i need 70-80 watts out of this x2) and all my other electrical things in my vehicle

what size?

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[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

200 should be fine

 

[JimJ 5,000+ posts]

biggest you can afford...

 

[bamaboy 5,000+ posts]

Well, i can get any of them, but i just dont want to spend too much, i want one that does enough to get job done and not dim lights and make the bass fade like mine does now, and starts charging right when i crank upi read in instruction manual, the amp pulls a max of 180a i think dont remember, and the little amps pulls not many, but i want to have extra room for other stuff to run too, will 200a be enough?

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

my set up is smaller but ill bet my alt is alot worse than yours is now lol i get no dimmage. my amp can draw as much as my alt puts out too. id do the big 3 then do an alt

 

[stones 10+ year member]

I would go for the one with the highest charging voltage when sitting at a stop light because that is where all the aggravations of low voltage and dimming happen (and unfortunatly a stop light is where a car sits most of the time).

 

[bamaboy 5,000+ posts]

ima try to do big three when i install a new alt if i get one

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

takes like 30 minutes it isnt that hard lord knows im no master mechanic cost you 20 bucks for terminal rings and wire maybe more since you wanna probably use 0 gauge i used 4 gauge made a huge improvement over the 10 and 12 gauge in mine lol alt to battery was only a six guage battery to chassis ground was 10 guage factory at tops rest was 6 guage

 

[bamaboy 5,000+ posts]

well i have 3 grounds, one goes to engine, one to chassis, and one goes to something but they are all different sizes, my batt to alt looks like 6ga also kinda, i would do it but i dont know if i can get to the one on the engine, its pretty good ways down there, butalt to batt should be easy and 2 of the grounds should be easy, but dont know about engine one, do u have to do all of the big three or big 4 in my case? how about the Big 2?

explain to me exactly what i need to do, i know pretty much just tell me exactly what to do

bat to alt

and some grounds

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

i replaced alt to battery but other than that you just make a second run to about the same locations with the larger wire. my voltage went up to 14.4 car on and batterry rests at 13.6 since i did this used to rest at 12.4 up to 13.6 with the truck on lol also found my engine noise is my stinking belt tensioner

 

[bamaboy 5,000+ posts]

u only did alt to battery is that what you are saying?

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

replaced but ran the other 2 in conjunction with the factory wires

 

[Goldtaz1 10+ year member]

I voted for 200 amp in the large case because the sooner than thing kicks on the better.

 

[bamaboy 5,000+ posts]

not 250a //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif thankls for input man //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif