About to start a project, first timer in need of help

[LotusCS]

I drive a 2012 Mazda 3 with the base (non-bose) audio system. I am NOT an audiophile, but the stock system is so bad at mids/highs (I think, not sure if that's how I'm supposed to describe it) that it's hard to discern the human voice. This is most noticeable when I'm trying to listen to Radiolab on NPR or news, and I have to have the volume up too loud for my preferences just to be able to make out what they're saying. The goal here isn't to get a louder system or anything like that, but to get much better sound reproduction throughout the frequency range. I want quality of sound, not loudness. I also don't need amazing quality. Just significantly better than the crap-tastic stock setup. I also listen to good music so being a good system in general would also be nice. I'm also on a bit of a budget. I'm not the kind of guy who just throws money away.

I also don't want to permanently alter the car. For instance, I don't want to drill any additional mounting holes or anything like that. I'd rather just make a bracket out of sheet metal that attaches to existing screw holes, etc. I also don't want to replace the head unit because it's integrated into my car's system. I have buttons on the steering wheel and the A/C controls are also on the unit. This leads me to believe my best choice is just to take the output analog signal, put it through an amp, and replace the speakers. I was thinking about these products:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P88U12

Amazon.com: Desert Eagle DE-S900.4 900 Watts Max, 450 Watts RMS 4-Channel Multichannel Amplifier: Car Electronics

http://www.amazon.com/NVX-XFLOC4-4-Channel-Converter-Digital/dp/B00H2XR1LE/

Amazon.com: BOSS AUDIO KIT2 20 ft. High Performance RCA Interconnect: Car Electronics

I was originally planning on just getting the speakers and having it be just a simple speaker swap, but then I was told that you really want more power than the stock head unit can supply, hence the amp. I was only planning on replacing the front door speakers, but want the ability to replace the rear in the future which is why I went 4-channel. 900W seems a lot to me (and more than the speakers can take) so I don't plan on using all that power. I'm also not sure if the fuse in the wiring kit is correctly rated. Then there's the problem of where to mount an amp and how to re-wire everything. The addition of the amp really makes this way more complicated, but I feel like I should do it and get it right the first time instead of a half-measure and then re-doing it later. That's also why I'm posting here because I really, really don't want to get components that won't work for my desired purpose and want to make sure I'm getting the right stuff.

What should I be focusing on next? I'm confident in my handy-man-ness so to speak, so I'm not particularly worried about installation so long as the parts work with my setup and running the new wires aren't too difficult. I am a bit worried about amp placement though.

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[jboy2015]

http://www.amazon.com/Precision-Power-P900-4-4-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B005KVEPVO

get this amp instead. I dont think anyone on here will vouch for the Deagle, whereas there is a large following for this amp.

they also have a 2 channel version, the ppi 600.2

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005KU7KEE/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687502&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B005KVEPVO&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=04H7XBJA2TV2T6EE41YW

Amazon.com : Alpine SPR-68 6x8" Coaxial 2-Way Type-R Speaker Set : Vehicle Speakers : Car Electronics

these are some decent speakers thatll keep you happy. none of us on here would typically recommend coaxials, but since you dont want to modify anything thats what youre really left with.

you really only need to upgrade the fronts, what ever you save while refraining from buying rear speakers, spend on a better amp. If you get the ppi 900.4 you have 2 channels to use for a sub if you so choose later on down the road.

like you said, do it right or do it twice

 

[LotusCS]

That's looking like a 3x cost increase for those parts. Is it worth it? I don't really want to spend that much unless it's the difference I'm looking for. Keep in mind the underlying reason why I'm doing this in the first place.

 

[jboy2015]

That's looking like a 3x cost increase for those parts. Is it worth it? I don't really want to spend that much unless it's the difference I'm looking for. Keep in mind the underlying reason why I'm doing this in the first place.

The speakers you chose are fine, coincidentally i run those rockfords as well.

But that amp.... you can buy it if you want but really take my advice and get the ppi. A $45 amp is just gonna get you more of that crappy signal you're getting from your stock setup.

Keep in mind the underlying reason why you posted on here in the first place...

 

[LotusCS]

Thanks. I just wanted to make sure. Since I don't need the power but instead want audio clarity, what if I instead went with something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-40WX4-Power-Amplifier-GMA4604/dp/B00FKYAXXA

..and dropped the LOC and used the speaker level inputs for the amp. I know it's not as powerful, but would that be the clarity I'm looking for or should I just go with the Precision Power P900.4? I'm assuming I can get a turn-on-signal to the amp some other way though.

 

[jboy2015]

Thanks. I just wanted to make sure. Since I don't need the power but instead want audio clarity, what if I instead went with something like this:Amazon.com : Pioneer 40WX4 480W Peak Power Amplifier GMA4604 : Vehicle Multi Channel Amplifiers : Car Electronics

..and dropped the LOC and used the speaker level inputs for the amp. I know it's not as powerful, but would that be the clarity I'm looking for or should I just go with the Precision Power P900.4? I'm assuming I can get a turn-on-signal to the amp some other way though.

I recommended putting the majority of your budget into the amp. Since youre on a slim budget, only upgrade the front speakers for now, most of us dont even run rear speakers.

That pioneer amp is only going to give you 60w rms since the speakers are 4 ohm and rated for 75 watts. Just go with the ppi and be done, either the 2 channel or the 4. Yes, thats more power than you need, but all you need to do is keep the gain down. It's better for your amp anyway.

and use the locs.

 

[LotusCS]

Thanks for your help. Here is what I hope is the final question for the setup. I don't want to alter the original wiring harness, but I still have to get to the audio wires. I've been looking over the web for some kind of harness extension that I can mutilate without worry so I don't damage any original components, but I cant find any. The closest thing I've seen to what I want is buying both

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BEVXY

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0075COU4S

and making my own extension that I can then cut up, but the problem is the first piece doesn't have all the wiring. Obviously the simple solution is to not buy anything, ignore my reluctance and just cut up the original wiring harness, but I really, really don't want to do that. Is there something wrong with how I'm searching, or am I just weird in my reluctance to cut up my original wiring harness? Does the product I want even exist?

 

[jboy2015]

Thanks for your help. Here is what I hope is the final question for the setup. I don't want to alter the original wiring harness, but I still have to get to the audio wires. I've been looking over the web for some kind of harness extension that I can mutilate without worry so I don't damage any original components, but I cant find any. The closest thing I've seen to what I want is buying bothhttp://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BEVXY

Amazon.com : Mazda Protégé Radio Reverse Wiring Harness 2001 to 2012 OEM Radio (71-7903) : Vehicle Wiring Harnesses : Car Electronics

and making my own extension that I can then cut up, but the problem is the first piece doesn't have all the wiring. Obviously the simple solution is to not buy anything, ignore my reluctance and just cut up the original wiring harness, but I really, really don't want to do that. Is there something wrong with how I'm searching, or am I just weird in my reluctance to cut up my original wiring harness? Does the product I want even exist?

You're being overly cautious, which in turn is convoluting the your whole project. Just don't over do it on the wiring that you going to cut. Save some for later and you should be fine to go back to stock if need be.