300x1 @ 4 ohms with adjustable subsonic filter

[HoneyBadgerRy]

Title is pretty self explanatory, looking for something to prevent me from buying a zapco st-850xm.

Click to read more...

 

[Vertex Audio Pro Seller]

Title is pretty self explanatory, looking for something to prevent me from buying a zapco st-850xm.

here ya are, its a solid amp.

Phoenix Gold RX 500.1 Monoblock Amplifier

 

[trillest11 10+ year member]

I have a Phoenix gold sd600.1

Probably more than you need. Does 300x1 at 4

400x1 at 2ohms

600x1 at 1 ohm.

It's as big as a DVD. You can put it anywhere and efficient. Great amp. $120

 

[timhof13 10+ year member]

Helix solid one ?

 

[HoneyBadgerRy]

I have a Phoenix gold sd600.1
Probably more than you need. Does 300x1 at 4

400x1 at 2ohms

600x1 at 1 ohm.

It's as big as a DVD. You can put it anywhere and efficient. Great amp. $120

Have you ever had it stable at 4 ohms? I can't see anything about its 4 ohm rating.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Have you ever had it stable at 4 ohms? I can't see anything about its 4 ohm rating.

If its stable at 1 ohm it can handle 4 ohms easy. The lower ohm rating, the more stable the amp is at whatever ohm load above that rating.

 

[HoneyBadgerRy]

I knew that, but I was more looking for a 4 ohm watt reading, a little more research let me learn it is rated for 200 watts at 4 ohms, and that's less than I was looking for.

 

[HoneyBadgerRy]

I'm looking for something I can run a alpine 8"D2 type r at 300 watts, with a subsonic filter, and if I think its to loud I can turn the sub down, if its not loud enough I can get a second sub, and run them at 2 ohms 300 watts each.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I'm looking for something I can run a alpine 8"D2 type r at 300 watts, with a subsonic filter, and if I think its to loud I can turn the sub down, if its not loud enough I can get a second sub, and run them at 2 ohms 300 watts each.

Its always better to have more power on tap than not having enough. there's also box rise and voltage drops to account for as well. Being wired at 4 ohms, your rise will be high up to the 6-8 ohm regions so your real power output will be less than 150 watts if you have a 300 at 4 ohms amp.. This should be a decent amp for you which should be pretty future proof as well when you want to add another sub. Precision Power PPI P1000.1 Phantom 1000W Monoblock Amplifier

If you havent bought the type R yet, I'd suggest you getting a soundqubed hds208 instead. D4, wire to 2 ohms and if you get another one, wire to 1 ohm.

 

[HoneyBadgerRy]

Its always better to have more power on tap than not having enough. there's also box rise and voltage drops to account for as well. Being wired at 4 ohms, your rise will be high up to the 6-8 ohm regions so your real power output will be less than 150 watts if you have a 300 at 4 ohms amp.. This should be a decent amp for you which should be pretty future proof as well when you want to add another sub. Precision Power PPI P1000.1 Phantom 1000W Monoblock Amplifier

If you havent bought the type R yet, I'd suggest you getting a soundqubed hds208 instead. D4, wire to 2 ohms and if you get another one, wire to 1 ohm.

I know very little about sub's, but I'm planning on running mine from 40hz-100hz, and I wanted really tight bass, nothing boomy. Almost everything in a ported box sounded boomy to me. I'm not sure I even know what I want, but u read somewhere that running the sub in 4ohm in a small sealed box will help keep it tight, so that's why I chose that sub... I'm open to other ideas, but from what I know, that's a step in the wrong direction?

 

[trillest11 10+ year member]

The 300 was based on metering it and I use it on my e8d2v4. If you want tight bass I would suggest the woofer. With this amp it is amazing. You're not going to win spl competitions but you will have amazing sound.

 

[HoneyBadgerRy]

The 300 was based on metering it and I use it on my e8d2v4. If you want tight bass I would suggest the woofer. With this amp it is amazing.

I'll consider it, I need to get some more knowledge and opinions. I don't have an amp, sub, or box yet, so my options are pretty loose.

 

[fasfocus00 5,000+ posts]

$60 shipped for an Alpine that does 300x1@4Ω and 500x1@2Ω.

 

[HoneyBadgerRy]

$60 shipped for an Alpine that does 300x1@4Ω and 500x1@2Ω.

As a bit of an alpine fanboy, I have no idea what that is... Its it a MRV? Sounds interesting. Does it have a subsonic filter?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I know very little about sub's, but I'm planning on running mine from 40hz-100hz, and I wanted really tight bass, nothing boomy. Almost everything in a ported box sounded boomy to me. I'm not sure I even know what I want, but u read somewhere that running the sub in 4ohm in a small sealed box will help keep it tight, so that's why I chose that sub... I'm open to other ideas, but from what I know, that's a step in the wrong direction?

Note, Most premade ported boxes you can buy online are 100% garbage The boomy sound is from a poorly engineered and designed box. Along with bloated basslines in most of today's music.

4 ohms wont get you any punchier. If anything you'll be stressing the equipment more if you arent satisfied with the output and pushing the equipment beyond its means causing signal to clip and distort. You wont know when you hit the limit most of the times since you are new to this, clipping/distortion is not audible.

I'd say just get a nice sound quality oriented 10 or 12 for your case, dont go with an 8. These daytons are highly regarded sound quality woofers that have a nice tight sound signature and smooth bass and works fine in smaller enclosures. If you have the space, just go with a 12. A sub barely lifting a finger to provide output will last MUCH longer than a small sub working its @ss off all the time. These daytons will work well with that PPI 1000.1 amp.

Dayton Audio RSS315HO-44 12" Reference HO DVC Subwoofer

 

[HoneyBadgerRy]

Note, Most premade ported boxes you can buy online are 100% garbage The boomy sound is from a poorly engineered and designed box.
4 ohms wont get you any punchier. If anything you'll be stressing the equipment more if you arent satisfied with the output and pushing the equipment beyond its means causing signal to clip and distort. You wont know when you hit the limit most of the times since you are new to this, clipping/distortion is not audible.

I'd say just get a nice sound quality oriented 10 or 12 for your case, dont go with an 8. These daytons are highly regarded sound quality woofers that have a nice tight sound signature and smooth bass and works fine in smaller enclosures. If you have the space, just go with a 12. A sub barely lifting a finger to provide output will last MUCH longer than a small sub working its @ss off all the time. These daytons will work well with that PPI 1000.1 amp.

Dayton Audio RSS315HO-44 12" Reference HO DVC Subwoofer

Its going in the back of an SUV, so size isn't an issue, just price and difficulty. I have the ability to build a custom box, but I just don't want to. I don't think I'm going to be pushing the sub to hard, but I don't know because I never had one. The only time I ever played with a sub was a prebuilt blaupunkt sub in my dads truck (type r 6x8 and kappa 6x8).

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Its going in the back of an SUV, so size isn't an issue, just price and difficulty. I have the ability to build a custom box, but I just don't want to. I don't think I'm going to be pushing the sub to hard, but I don't know because I never had one. The only time I ever played with a sub was a prebuilt blaupunkt sub in my dads truck (type r 6x8 and kappa 6x8).

Take it from a big car driver to another.

That 8" sealed idea of yours will most likely be as loud as your door speakers, you'll be lucky to feel it. Big cars need more cone area to properly pressurize the cabin. Or an 8 in an efficient enclosure. Sealed boxes have horrible efficiency.

That dayton HO 12 sealed would be good for sound quality bass. If you go sealed, at least do a 12 in an SUV. Have it close to a hatch corner in the rear firing at the rear or directly into the corner for best bass response.

 

[HoneyBadgerRy]

Take it from a big car driver to another.
That 8" sealed idea of yours will most likely be as loud as your door speakers. Big cars need more cone area to properly pressurize the cabin.

That dayton HO 12 sealed would be good for sound quality bass. If you go sealed, at least do a 12 in an SUV.

Are you sure I need a 12 for a sealed transparent system? All the bigger is boomier stuff makes me timid if going past 10"... I mean my sub experience is terrible so idk, but I was looking at 10s then I listened to the 10" Bose in my z and it was really boomy and not very punchy. (Probably just a **** speaker.) I guess I could pickup a combo from somewhere on this forum and if I don't like it I could trade it...

BTW I love your front soundstage, I was thinking about doing a very similar thing. I wanted to put type r 6x9 in the door, and some kind of extra 3 way up front.. And depending on how it sounded maybe run my 4x6 kappa really quite off of my old **** mrv-300 just for a little rear fill.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Are you sure I need a 12 for a sealed transparent system? All the bigger is boomier stuff makes me timid if going past 10"... I mean my sub experience is terrible so idk, but I was looking at 10s then I listened to the 10" boss in my z and it was really boomy and not very punchy. (Probably just a **** speaker.) I guess I could pickup a combo from somewhere on this forum and if I don't like it I could trade it... BTW I love your front soundstage, I was thinking about doing a very similar thing. I wanted to put type r 6x9 in the door, and some kind of extra 3 way up front.. And depending on how it sounded maybe run my 4x6 kappa really quite off of my old **** mrv-300 just for a little rear fill.

If you think bigger subs = boomer you are dead wrong. Thats a myth that needs to stop being passed around by idiots newbs that dont know how to install or tune for sh*t.

Well, its a boss, you cant make assumptions on anything when all you've heard and experienced are junk woofers sorry to say. All you've mentioned are all pretty junky sound quality and build wise.

The type R 6x9s neodymiums were the best cheap shallows I could find to fit my front doors. When playing full range, I dont like them at all compared to what i have in the rear if we are talking about midrange performance. I have them purely for midbass duty which is 500hz and below but thats it They **** everywhere else in the mids and highs area in comparison to a lot of gear that i've heard that costs even less. Planning on getting proper 10" midbasses in the door in the future.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Are you sure I need a 12 for a sealed transparent system? All the bigger is boomier stuff makes me timid if going past 10"... I mean my sub experience is terrible so idk, but I was looking at 10s then I listened to the 10" Bose in my z and it was really boomy and not very punchy. (Probably just a **** speaker.) I guess I could pickup a combo from somewhere on this forum and if I don't like it I could trade it... BTW I love your front soundstage, I was thinking about doing a very similar thing. I wanted to put type r 6x9 in the door, and some kind of extra 3 way up front.. And depending on how it sounded maybe run my 4x6 kappa really quite off of my old **** mrv-300 just for a little rear fill.

What songs were boomy for you? What songs do you usually like it being punchy? This could literally be just frequency response and output. Most newbs dont know the difference.