(3) Apline SWR-10D4's / (2) Hifonics OLM1600 D2's

[dom1013 10+ year member]

Amplifying power: (2) Strapped Hifonics BRZ2100's ; 4000w rms @ 14.4v(on paper/good electrical)

Box size: limited to (4) Cubes total for either enclosure, I need some trunk space. Looking to tune from 33-35hz

These new Alpines look pretty **** impressive in every vid I see, they're super tempting and I've always loved them, can't beat the price. Cons will be the (2.7ohm load) which could possibly give around 3000w(once again, "on paper"), which we all know the type R's do wonders with minimal power.

I have lately grown to love Hifonics for what they put out at the prices they do, the subs look up to par and seem to fit right in line with most of the entry level "1000w rms 3" voice coil beefy motor structure mid-level," so to speak subwoofers offered up now-a-days. Maxxsonics seems confident in them being able to handle the power.

This is a trunk set-up and I want what is going to be louder to my ear & to move some serious air. Help me out guys! Any input would be greatly appreciated.

......sad part is I'm impatient and I'm probably going to hit "buy it now" on these **** 10's right after I post this. ****.

Simply stated:

(3) highly efficient 10's @ roughly 2500-3000w of power

OR

(2) power hungry 12's getting over pushed daily @ roughly 4000w

Click to read more...

 

[*Ace* 10+ year member]

Amplifying power: (2) Strapped Hifonics BRZ2100's ; 4000w rms @ 14.4v(on paper/good electrical)
Box size: limited to (4) Cubes total for either enclosure, I need some trunk space. Looking to tune from 33-35hz

These new Alpines look pretty **** impressive in every vid I see, they're super tempting and I've always loved them, can't beat the price. Cons will be the (2.7ohm load) which could possibly give around 3000w(once again, "on paper"), which we all know the type R's do wonders with minimal power.

I have lately grown to love Hifonics for what they put out at the prices they do, the subs look up to par and seem to fit right in line with most of the entry level "1000w rms 3" voice coil beefy motor structure mid-level," so to speak subwoofers offered up now-a-days. Maxxsonics seems confident in them being able to handle the power.

This is a trunk set-up and I want what is going to be louder to my ear & to move some serious air. Help me out guys! Any input would be greatly appreciated.

......sad part is I'm impatient and I'm probably going to hit "buy it now" on these **** 10's right after I post this. ****.

Simply stated:

(3) highly efficient 10's @ roughly 2500-3000w of power

OR

(2) power hungry 12's getting over pushed daily @ roughly 4000w

Do you have the proper electrical system for those two amps? Anyways, I would go with two beefy 12's personally. They have a tad bit more cone area and you could wire them down to 1 ohm. As for what brand of subs you could do Sundown Zv.3's, Fi BL with upgraded coils and cooling, Audioque HDC 4.0's, SSA Xcon's, or Incriminator Death penalty 12's. I don't think the 12" Alpines would like 2k a piece though for daily.

 

[caseyarndt 10+ year member]

Yea even the new type-r's only have a 2.6" voice coil so they will get hot pretty fast on that power even if they are handling it mechanically. I would go with some beefy 12s as well.

three tens only has a couple more sqin of total cone area too

 

[Flastrongman 10+ year member]

I had 3 of the new type r's and the 1000rms rating is BS. They are great subs but they did not like 3k on the 3.

 

[dom1013 10+ year member]

Thanks for that input fellas. Its definitely great to know, I'll see what happens from here.

- I currently have an AQ HDC4 12" - one sub will never really be loud enough for me to ever want to turn it down, I finally realized that.

- the PSI build 15" konaki recone is amazing in my Dave the Box Guy value series box right at 3.5cubes @ 37hz but it has a hard time keeping up with (1) of the brz2100's.

- cone area and box design are going to be my biggest obstacles & I can comfortable build a box to proper spec on (3) 10s no problem. (2) beefy 12s on the other hand will require more trunk space than I want to give up.

 

[destined2race 10+ year member]

I didnt really see the question in your post unless i missed sumn... deciding between the 10s or 12s? If so are the 12s the same alpines?

 

[dom1013 10+ year member]

I didnt really see the question in your post unless i missed sumn... deciding between the 10s or 12s? If so are the 12s the same alpines?

The 12's were going to be the New Hifonics Olympus 12's....maxxsonics rated them @ 1600rms a piece. The 10's were the type Rs so to speak.

 

[2Dcore 10+ year member]

Get 4 of the r's you will really be pushing just 3 of them unless you go easy on them and keep the gains down.

 

[*Ace* 10+ year member]

Thanks for that input fellas. Its definitely great to know, I'll see what happens from here.
- I currently have an AQ HDC4 12" - one sub will never really be loud enough for me to ever want to turn it down, I finally realized that.

- the PSI build 15" konaki recone is amazing in my Dave the Box Guy value series box right at 3.5cubes @ 37hz but it has a hard time keeping up with (1) of the brz2100's.

- cone area and box design are going to be my biggest obstacles & I can comfortable build a box to proper spec on (3) 10s no problem. (2) beefy 12s on the other hand will require more trunk space than I want to give up.

An enclosure for two 12's should be around 4cf, and you said you had your 15" in 3.5cf, which isn't to much smaller. Can you fit a 4cf net enclosure in your vehicle?

Or if you want to stick to a 15" sub, look at the Fi SP4. It has a 3000 watt rms rating on it, but you can also get a cooling option added to handle more power. And unless you have some serious electrical upgrades on your vehicle, I don't think any subs will be seeing the true 4000 rms from your amps anyways.

 

[dom1013 10+ year member]

Get 4 of the r's you will really be pushing just 3 of them unless you go easy on them and keep the gains down.

That's what I was thinking as well recently...I have 37" of width to play, the 10s total circumference is about 11" a piece, maybe if I staggered them a bit up and down I could get them in there comfortable.

It comes down to a matter of enclosure design at this point.

-Is a 4th order build with a port through the rear ski hole(or rear deck) ideal (***HUGE*** because I could eliminate trunk rattle)

-A simple nice ported enclosure with an aeroport firing to the rear deck (I have a decent sized hole cut in the rear deck to help air travel through)

-Sealed is out of the equation, I want these to play low

An enclosure for two 12's should be around 4cf, and you said you had your 15" in 3.5cf, which isn't to much smaller. Can you fit a 4cf net enclosure in your vehicle?
Or if you want to stick to a 15" sub, look at the Fi SP4. It has a 3000 watt rms rating on it, but you can also get a cooling option added to handle more power. And unless you have some serious electrical upgrades on your vehicle, I don't think any subs will be seeing the true 4000 rms from your amps anyways.

What I've realized is that there isn't a single sub set-up out that can actually be loud enough to make me want to turn it down so to speak. Although my 15" set-up is really loud, I keep it full tilt, the same thing with the HDC4 12.

I do agree with you as well, seeing a true 4k is probably never going to happen in which the type R's shine that much more as they get fairly loud with minimal power. I'll eventually run an upgraded alt but for now I'll be adding about (2) decent sized batteries out back to keep things tame. One of them out back now is plenty for (1) 2k amp.

As stated earlier this is now going to come down to cone area(I need to feel the bass in my eyeballs lol) and box design. It's a battle of what can be the loudest and most efficient. I do not want any trunk rattle as well so this is going to be fun. I don't know if there is enough sound deadening material out to supress (4) 10s to a decent amount.

I need this set-up to do 148+ on music. Any 4th order gurus?? I need to get a rough estimate on some specs.