$2k amp on craigslist of all places...

[JimJ 5,000+ posts]

handmade in america = quality f the foreigners

Yeah, Rainbow, Genesis, Scanspeak, Seas, Sinfoni is all garbage.

 

[150dbs 10+ year member]

lol quad 50 mm fans

 

[RAM_Designs 5,000+ posts]

lol quad 50 mm fans

You do realize that it's a pretty amazing amp, right?

I mean, where else can you get 2x150, 2x200, and 2x300 in a single amp? Seems like the ultimate single amp for an active 3-way front stage.

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

Can you imagine the amp draw on 1300 watts of pure class A power? It's probably like the old SS class A amps that were class A up to a point, then switched.

A true class A design would draw full power continuously, no matter the output from the amplifier (or volume setting). So a true 1300 watt class A amplifier would draw approximately 120 amps of current at all times. Class A's dont have a higher maximum current draw, they just draw it all the time (in case you didnt know this). So the amp would draw 120 amps even when the volume was set at the minimum and the stereo was barely audible.

All class A/B amps start as class A, and then switch to class B at a certain point. Yes, the old SS Ref lines that were 'pure class A' were really class A/B's with more biased towards class A than other comparable designs. In other words, they simply stayed in class A mode longer. I can only assume that is how this TRU works.

(for the people who didnt understand the terms you and I have thrown around here)

 

[banks8604 10+ year member]

What part of Class A, Burr Brown, independent power supplies and staggered outputs sounds cheap to you? Just wondering.

Id love to have it. Even if its not a true Class A, which I doubt it is.

i didnt say it was cheap. i just said ive never heard of it and it doesnt sound like its worth $2,000 buddy.

 

[Louisiana_CRX 5,000+ posts]

Id pay $1000 outta my shoe box monies for it

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

i didnt say it was cheap. i just said ive never heard of it and it doesnt sound like its worth $2,000 buddy.

Quality isn't cheap. Im sure plenty of people think Ferrari's aren't worth their price either. TRU generally makes the Ferrari of amplifiers. And this appears to be the Enzo of TRU's product line.

And, you avoided my question. I was asking what part of the amplifier's design/description tells you it isn't worth $2k? It's hand built, made of top quality components, and has pretty much all the features current technology will allow humans to build into an amplifier chassis. I could see you saying "Id never pay $2k for any amplifier", but that's not what you said. You said it doesn't sound like its worth the price. So besides the fact you've never heard of the company, what makes you suggest it doesn't sound like its worth the price? BTW, $2k is the used price. That's not even what they cost new. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

Im glad we've come through this as such good friends. It means a lot to me, buddy.

 

[Louisiana_CRX 5,000+ posts]

I should've never sold all my TRU Amps...I miss my old Hammers...I always wanted a Sledge Hammer

 

[Ineed$ 10+ year member]

What the hell do you know, you drive a taxi. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

lmao

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

I should've never sold all my TRU Amps...I miss my old Hammers...I always wanted a Sledge Hammer

I should smack you.

 

[RAM_Designs 5,000+ posts]

A true class A design would draw full power continuously, no matter the output from the amplifier (or volume setting). So a true 1300 watt class A amplifier would draw approximately 120 amps of current at all times. Class A's dont have a higher maximum current draw, they just draw it all the time (in case you didnt know this). So the amp would draw 120 amps even when the volume was set at the minimum and the stereo was barely audible.
All class A/B amps start as class A, and then switch to class B at a certain point. Yes, the old SS Ref lines that were 'pure class A' were really class A/B's with more biased towards class A than other comparable designs. In other words, they simply stayed in class A mode longer. I can only assume that is how this TRU works.

(for the people who didnt understand the terms you and I have thrown around here)

Interesting. For whatever reason I missed the boat on that bit of info. I was always under the impression that a pure class A output was very inefficient, around 40-50%. What exactly was the benefit of the class A design?

 

[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

Can you imagine the amp draw on 1300 watts of pure class A power? It's probably like the old SS class A amps that were class A up to a point, then switched.

433A @ 12v. That's continuous current draw regardless of volume level or actual output.

 

[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

handmade in america = overpriced

Fixed your post.

 

[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

A true class A design would draw full power continuously, no matter the output from the amplifier (or volume setting). So a true 1300 watt class A amplifier would draw approximately 120 amps of current at all times.

You forgot that by definition a Class A has maximum efficiency of 25% as well.

 

[buffroller 10+ year member]

6 grand for this

No.