2015 RAM 1500 deciding on which amps?

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Big_E

CarAudio.com Newbie
Been out the the 12v audio scene for the better part of 25 years, so things/brands have changed and am looking for a little advice.

What I'm working with. 2015 Ram 1500 Crew cab, currently have a Kenwood DMX7709s in the dash, Pioneer TS-A692F 6x9s (90w RMS) in the front and rear doors with Pioneer TS-A879 3.5s (100w RMS) in the dash. Not opposed to just eliminating or running the rear 6x9s off the HU if need be. 160amp alt from the factory (if that came into play) Keeping the factory speaker wiring (too much of a pain to run new through door boots)

Looking to add an amp to the speakers and a single 12 (with an amp) under my back drivers side seat. Seems I will be going with a Fox Acoustics sealed box w/ 1ft3 volume. Sub wise I've been looking at the Sundown Audio EV12 v4 (500w RMS).

I'm running into my dilemma when it comes to how I want to amp everything. The two options I've come down to is a jp8 1.5 for the sub and a jp84 for the rest of it OR
do I just grab a Kenwood X802-5 (5 channel) and be done with it?
 
I have a '17 ram and I run 2 amps. For the fronts I have kenwood 6x9 woofers in the doors and their 3.5 coax in the dash. Rear fill is alpine 6x9's. Fronts are running at 2 ohm off the rf prime 300x4 and the rears are 4 ohm off the back channels of that amp. Subs are 2-10" Sundown SA Classics running at 1 ohm off a RF Prime 1200x1 in the 2x12 fox box. Amps are on the rear wall behind the seat. Even pushing them they don't get super hot.
20230318_193317.jpg
 
I have a '17 ram and I run 2 amps. For the fronts I have kenwood 6x9 woofers in the doors and their 3.5 coax in the dash. Rear fill is alpine 6x9's. Fronts are running at 2 ohm off the rf prime 300x4 and the rears are 4 ohm off the back channels of that amp. Subs are 2-10" Sundown SA Classics running at 1 ohm off a RF Prime 1200x1 in the 2x12 fox box. Amps are on the rear wall behind the seat. Even pushing them they don't get super hot. View attachment 49460
Looks damn good and never thought about running my front stage @ 2ohm
 
So how did you wire them? I have 4Ω in the dash and the door and plan on picking up the wiring for them behind the HU. (run a 9wire back up front from the amp)
That's exactly what I did. Ran 6x9 and 3.5 parallel for each front side to the front 2 channels. Unless there's a resistor somewhere in the factory wiring that's a 2 ohm load per side. The door and dash are on the same set of wires in my truck.
 
So how did you wire them? I have 4Ω in the dash and the door and plan on picking up the wiring for them behind the HU. (run a 9wire back up front from the amp)
Forgot to mention, I did not meter the final load on the front chan els at the amp. I just assume it's 2 ohm!!!
 
If you're going to run an amp, then run new wire. For the door boots, you have all sorts of options. You can use a coat hanger to get the bend right, or even use the factory wiring you won't use any more. You can tie a string to a nut and use a magnet /magnet stick so you have anything that feeds through that you can connect your speaker wire too.

hen to that you connect your speaker wire. You can zip tie it, solder it, heat shrink, etc.. anything to connect it so you can pull through the new wire.

Wrap something like tape or heat shrink around the end of the new wire, smooth out the new edge of the wire so it doesn't snag. Use the same dialectic grease that you use on the lugs/connectors to keep them from getting moisture, and use that to lube up the outside of the new speaker wire, and it will pull right through. Figure out your technique for the first one, and the rest will just take a few minutes. I know on my pickup, those door boots pop right out. You can feed through em, then pop em back in.
 
Honestly, I have to say Kudos man. Most people who post in here don't put in the effort to actually figure out what they want and try to solve their own problems before posting. They post the most basic questions, they could clearly answer with a few minutes of searching, and want to be told what to do as if everyone is going to give them the same perfect answer that somehow applies to everyone.

I took a quick look around crutchfield, and it looks like there is a big price bump in upping that wattage if going with a 5ch. You picked one thats 75w x 4, and you could go anywhere from 90-110 no problem. It's your call, but I think I would go with two separate amps. You could easily go with a 4ch amp that is closer to 100w x 4, and then a 1ch 500w sub amp. Both of those sizes are pretty common, and can be found pretty cheap. Just a little more wiring and distribution blocks. Might make a decibel or two difference to go from 75 to 100w. The price could be about the same, and leaves you a little more room for down the road (if that matters). 100x4 + a 500w sub amp should still work with that alternator you have now too, (900w is about 55 amps). 100 more watts is only about another 6 amps.

Not sure if you have figured out where it mounts, but two little amps might fit better.
 
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If you're going to run an amp, then run new wire. For the door boots, you have all sorts of options. You can use a coat hanger to get the bend right, or even use the factory wiring you won't use any more. You can tie a string to a nut and use a magnet /magnet stick so you have anything that feeds through that you can connect your speaker wire too.

hen to that you connect your speaker wire. You can zip tie it, solder it, heat shrink, etc.. anything to connect it so you can pull through the new wire.

Wrap something like tape or heat shrink around the end of the new wire, smooth out the new edge of the wire so it doesn't snag. Use the same dialectic grease that you use on the lugs/connectors to keep them from getting moisture, and use that to lube up the outside of the new speaker wire, and it will pull right through. Figure out your technique for the first one, and the rest will just take a few minutes. I know on my pickup, those door boots pop right out. You can feed through em, then pop em back in.
The door boots in the RAM are notorious for being a ***** to get new wire though (esp the back doors) IF I can avoid running new wires in the door that would be ideal. I've poked around on the RAM forums and checked out my actual truck...... not something I really want to get into LOL
I know I SHOULD do it, but neuropathy in my fingers makes that damn near impossible LOL
 
That's exactly what I did. Ran 6x9 and 3.5 parallel for each front side to the front 2 channels. Unless there's a resistor somewhere in the factory wiring that's a 2 ohm load per side. The door and dash are on the same set of wires in my truck.
Completely forgot that the factory wiring in the dash/door were splitting a channel. I'm going to have to ratchet back my 4ch amp, I don't feel comfortable pushing 120+w through those factory wires in the front) (Was going with the jp8⁴)
Maybe go with a Kicker CX (65x2 for the rear 90x2 for the front door/dash). That should give me a decent front stage and a little rear fill I would think.
 
@HardofWhoring first off .... Appreciate the kudos. I did this stuff 20 years ago and for the most part my old knowledge still applies. I fall short with the "rep/reliability" of the newer companies out there.
I've narrowed down that I definitely want to do a 2 amp system. Like you said, power wise I can get more out of it for the same price point of a 5ch. I can mouth the two amps under/behind my backseat. Definitely room back there for a DIY amp rack.
The JP8 is where I keep landing to push a 12" SA E12 (2ohmDVC) and see if it can handle the JP8@1ohm.
I really wish I could run new wire to the doors but it just isn't in the cards physically for me.
I figure on doing a Kicker 4ch, 65w to the rear and my front/dash are factory wired @2ohm so I'll get 90w to the front stage.
Overall I'm 75% sure of my choices 😂😂
 
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@HardofWhoring first off .... Appreciate the kudos. I did this stuff 20 years ago and for the most part my old knowledge still applies. I fall short with the "rep/reliability" of the newer companies out there.
I've narrowed down that I definitely want to do a 2 amp system. Like you said, power wise I can get more out of it for the same price point of a 5ch. I can mouth the two amps under/behind my backseat. Definitely room back there for a DIY amp rack.
The JP8 is where I keep landing to push a 12" SA E12 (2ohmDVC) and see if it can handle the JP8@1ohm.
I really wish I could run new wire to the doors but it just isn't in the cards physically for me.
I figure on doing a Kicker 4ch, 65w to the rear and my front/dash are factory wired @2ohm so I'll get 90w to the front stage.
Overall I'm 75% sure of my choices 😂😂
I am having no issues pushing that much to my front with the factory wiring. Well at least 75 watts each side. I think the birthsheet showed over 100 but don't remember the exact number.
 
I am having no issues pushing that much to my front with the factory wiring. Well at least 75 watts each side. I think the birthsheet showed over 100 but don't remember the exact number.
UGH.... "you're killin' me Smalls" LOL
At this point I'm second guessing if I am underpowering the sub with the amp choice.
 
UGH.... "you're killin' me Smalls" LOL
At this point I'm second guessing if I am underpowering the sub with the amp choice.
I have almost 750 a piece going to 2 10's. If you are doing the sealed 1.0ft3 box displacement of that sub is .12ft3. That leaves you .88ft3 total volume, I would go with a 10". Also, if you go with the 12 I would put more than 500 to it because of box volume. It's gonna take some power to get that sub loud sealed in a smaller enclosure. Just my 2 pennies.my 10's are f'ing LOUD if that's what you're after!
 
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Big_E

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