Kriszilla 10+ year member
Skydiving is life
I'm slowly but surely getting my system back together. I'm currently working on flush-mounting a RF 25-to-Life edition Punch 75 and an RF T10001BD into the tailgate of my Jeep. But I also need to upgrade the power...
To that end, I ditched the stock battery and picked up an Exide Orbital Select G34/78 sealed batt and did the Big-3 using the new Knu triple 1/0 battery terminals and some JL & Stinger 1/0 cable.
First, we have the new battery and its new cabling:
Next, in this pic of my alt, you can see where I added a 1/0 run to the stock 8 gauge run and where I added the engine ground via the alternator bracket bolt.
Here's the view from above with labels. I probably didn't need to reinforce the wiring to the factory fusebox, but I went ahead and ran a length of additional 4 gauge wire to it just to be safe. You can also see the frame ground in the bottom of the pic. That piece is a direct weld to the Jeep frame. I used a dremel to clear the paint and used a stainless steel fender washer and self tapping screw to attach the run of 1/0.
After all is said & done, there has been a big improvement. Before, I could never maintain a voltage higher than 13.3 at the amps, and whenever I used the power windows, the headlights would noticibly dim as well. After the upgrades, I'm holding at 14.3 volts at the back and there is zero dimming. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif
To that end, I ditched the stock battery and picked up an Exide Orbital Select G34/78 sealed batt and did the Big-3 using the new Knu triple 1/0 battery terminals and some JL & Stinger 1/0 cable.
First, we have the new battery and its new cabling:
Next, in this pic of my alt, you can see where I added a 1/0 run to the stock 8 gauge run and where I added the engine ground via the alternator bracket bolt.
Here's the view from above with labels. I probably didn't need to reinforce the wiring to the factory fusebox, but I went ahead and ran a length of additional 4 gauge wire to it just to be safe. You can also see the frame ground in the bottom of the pic. That piece is a direct weld to the Jeep frame. I used a dremel to clear the paint and used a stainless steel fender washer and self tapping screw to attach the run of 1/0.
After all is said & done, there has been a big improvement. Before, I could never maintain a voltage higher than 13.3 at the amps, and whenever I used the power windows, the headlights would noticibly dim as well. After the upgrades, I'm holding at 14.3 volts at the back and there is zero dimming. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif
