2002 Explorer

[JarvisB 10+ year member]

cool man, thanks for the info.

I am bookmarking this thread for my own reference lol

more likely I will start on it like next week or maybe later this week if i m not going any place for new year

 

[z0n3d0u7 10+ year member]

but i did have my pro60 xovers in the doors, and have a big alarm brain and stuff under the drivers dash and had a brain unit for a dvd under the pass side dash, there is room

Actually, where they are mounted is not a crime. I just couldn't find a better place to put them that wouldn't take days of modification, special tools, and LOADS of cash to accomplish. But, who knows, I might make some changes, yet. Something to do, over the winter. I'm also going by the recommedations from the mfgr, a friend who was an installer, another friend who is an installer, and countless other sources...that you should keep the crossovers as close to the speakers, as possible. So, that's my aim.

Just Curious if these same people recommended using what appears to be Sheet metal as speaker adapter plates?

I dont see ANYTHING wrong with having another 6' of speaker wire between your mid and tweet, And your Cross over.

I do see 100 thing's wrong with them being mounted in the door panel.. Ill list the ones that come to the top.

VIBRATION's / SLAMMING will weaken your solder joints on the boards of your cross over.

WATER may come in the window, And pool in the pocket. Not a LIKELY situation, But i have had it happen to me in my S10 unexpectedly.

Your choice, But id move them.

Im sure they will fit under the front seats, As well as in the dash, And in the center console, As well as in your amp rack.

Sorry, Just lookin out for ya.

 

[JarvisB 10+ year member]

hey do you have a pic of the relay hooked up to all of those fans?

I am wondering where is relay getting the power from?

Im sorry, I am a noob when it comes to relays. I have been trying to understand but for some reason I cant. I think I gotta see pics to understand.

Care to explain? would help a lot! thanks!

 

[nutnbutcustm 10+ year member]

looks really good

 

[HCCA 10+ year member]

Just Curious if these same people recommended using what appears to be Sheet metal as speaker adapter plates?
I dont see ANYTHING wrong with having another 6' of speaker wire between your mid and tweet, And your Cross over.

I do see 100 thing's wrong with them being mounted in the door panel.. Ill list the ones that come to the top.

VIBRATION's / SLAMMING will weaken your solder joints on the boards of your cross over.

WATER may come in the window, And pool in the pocket. Not a LIKELY situation, But i have had it happen to me in my S10 unexpectedly.

Your choice, But id move them.

Im sure they will fit under the front seats, As well as in the dash, And in the center console, As well as in your amp rack.

Sorry, Just lookin out for ya.

Actually they WILL NOT fit under the seats. I say again..WILL NOT fit under the seats. My seats are both motorized, and the seat adjustment motors will allow about 1/2" between seat adjustment motor, and floor, when adjusted to the lowest position. The crossovers are 1 5/8" tall. I'm not trying to be an a$$ about this, but I keep hearing..."under the seats, under the seats"...to where I've heard it too much. I'm about ready to mold a pice of clay to the same size as the crossover, and place it under the seat. Then lower the seat, and remove the smashed piece of clay as proof.

There is NO ROOM under the dash, on this vehicle. If there were, that would have been the first place I would have chosen to mount them. I checked every under dash mounting position possible....no dice. Oh, sure....I could have deleted the glovebox, or center console storage. But, I would like to retain those areas for storage, as I use them now.

"WATER may come in the window, And pool in the pocket. Not a LIKELY situation, But i have had it happen to me in my S10 unexpectedly."

The crossovers are screwed to the door card. They are 1" above the bottom of the pocket. And, the hole cut through the door for wire passage would allow water to drain through the door, before it could collect high enough for a short. That's IF you were to get a gallon of water to pour into the pocket, through the window, to begin with.

"VIBRATION's / SLAMMING will weaken your solder joints on the boards of your cross over."

I mounted them with a layer of SS Rattlepad, to help kill vibrations. And, the first person to SLAM my doors will get their fingers slammed in the door, immediately thereafter.

Also, the bracing done to the door, helped knock down about 90% of the speaker induced vibration felt in the door card.

Now, the two places left, are going to be either under the REAR seats, or in the right rear side panel. But, that would require around 12, and 19 ft respectively for a run to each side, from the rear mounting option.

Thanks for the suggestions, but I've researched this for a while. Not much short of cutting a hole in the floor pan, and making a recessed box for the crossovers will allow room for them, AND a short run of wire. I've had other vehicles, and mounted the crossovers elsewhere. On this one, though, I'm stuck.

 

[HCCA 10+ year member]

hey do you have a pic of the relay hooked up to all of those fans?
I am wondering where is relay getting the power from?

Im sorry, I am a noob when it comes to relays. I have been trying to understand but for some reason I cant. I think I gotta see pics to understand.

Care to explain? would help a lot! thanks!

There is only one relay, and two fans. The power wire is routed from the power distro block, and the relay is attached to the amp rack side of the 2x8. Not visible because the amp rack covers it. And, sorry, no pics. You can get the relay from Radio Shack. It's only about 1"x2". This is pretty much it, right here. There should probably be instructions with it, that detail how. You feed in your turn-on lead from the HU, and 12V constant power. Then out to your accessories...fans, amps, EQ's etc...

http://cgi.ebay.com/Tyco-Bosch-Relay-SPDT-12-Volt-20-30-AMP-with-Socket_W0QQitemZ200422280709QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item2eaa194e05

 

[JarvisB 10+ year member]

There is only one relay, and two fans. The power wire is routed from the power distro block, and the relay is attached to the amp rack side of the 2x8. Not visible because the amp rack covers it. And, sorry, no pics. You can get the relay from Radio Shack. It's only about 1"x2". This is pretty much it, right here. There should probably be instructions with it, that detail how. You feed in your turn-on lead from the amp, and 12V constant power. Then out to your accessories...fans, amps, EQ's etc...http://cgi.ebay.com/Tyco-Bosch-Relay-SPDT-12-Volt-20-30-AMP-with-Socket_W0QQitemZ200422280709QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item2eaa194e05

Lol is it that simple??? wow ha

So the relay will work with a 12 gauge wire coming from any constant 12+ volts source?

what about grounding it? No grounding needed for the relay?

Is your amp's remote line being ran thru the relay? Because I m not sure how am I supposed to feed the relay a remote wire if it is currently hooked to the amp. I am thinking I could just move the wire to the relay and then have 3 remote wires coming out of the relay- one to my amp, and another 2 to my 2 fans?

And a relay is good for supporting how many devices?

Lastly, relay is supposed to be ideal for what kind of situations? Never understood the purpose of relay.

Many thanks! You are already a big help! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

edit: and which amps are recommended for relays? 20/30 amps? Because I am looking at radioshack website and they ve got different amperage ratings so I m wondering which one should I get.

I am thinking about going out to radioshack today to grab me one of those so I have something to do lol.

 

[HCCA 10+ year member]

Sorry, my bad...typo. I meant the turn-on lead from the HU FOR the amps. There are four terminal lugs, on the relay. Just run your turn-on lead from the HU, to the input terminal of the relay(12V on/off). Run 12V constant to the relay(12V IN), and run a ground wire(GND). Then you can run a single lead to a fused distro block (if you need to get that fancy). I just crimped the two fan +leads, and the three amp leads to a larger crimp terminal. All supplied by the 12V OUT side of the relay.

30 amp should be sufficient for the average operation. Each fan should be considered a 5 amp draw, and each remote turn on should be considered a 3 amp draw. This is more for just rule of thumb safety, than actual measurements. If you have 7 amps, 5 fans, 4 signal processors, and more...then, you should consider using a couple/maybe...three relays. Otherwise, a single relay of 30 amps should be fine.

 

[JarvisB 10+ year member]

cool man I guess I will just do the same as you did (crimping mutliple wires together into a large crimp terminal)

I will only have 3 wires- one to amp and other 2 to fans.

2 more thing- what gauge wire did you use to power the relay? and what fuse and fuse holder did you use for the constant 12v wire from battery to the relay?

I just got the relay from radio shack n all that. I am going to use 14 gauge wire, is that okay? But I need to buy a inline fuse holder and fuse but I am not sure which one to get, can you recommend one?

also my fan comes with one blue wire and one red wire. so i m wondering if you can tell me which wire goes to where? I m positive that I ll need to wire the red wire to 87, but what should I do with the blue remote wire?? i m confused as hell lol.

 

[KINGDELL91 10+ year member]

Well, here's the bracing that I had to do. It sure made a difference! I think I gained 3 db, just from this, alone.
Also, some better pics of the underhood wiring.

Very nice!! I like what you have done here with the T-Block! So is that your power and BIG 3 run Going in there, do you notice any difference to if u just had 2 direct lines to the batt?

 

[JarvisB 10+ year member]

cool man I guess I will just do the same as you did (crimping mutliple wires together into a large crimp terminal)
I will only have 3 wires- one to amp and other 2 to fans.

2 more thing- what gauge wire did you use to power the relay? and what fuse and fuse holder did you use for the constant 12v wire from battery to the relay?

I just got the relay from radio shack n all that. I am going to use 14 gauge wire, is that okay? But I need to buy a inline fuse holder and fuse but I am not sure which one to get, can you recommend one?

also my fan comes with one blue wire and one red wire. so i m wondering if you can tell me which wire goes to where? I m positive that I ll need to wire the red wire to 87, but what should I do with the blue remote wire?? i m confused as hell lol.

now i m beginning to think that blue wire is a ground wire? and just that it is a blue wire not black ha?

 

[HCCA 10+ year member]

now i m beginning to think that blue wire is a ground wire? and just that it is a blue wire not black ha?

No, the power wire is blue. The ground is the clear insulation jacket. Black loom, maybe, but clear insulation jacket just the same. Ordinarily, it's black=ground, red=power. But, in the CS industry, there have been lots of people substituting their own colors. As long as you know what they are, regarding + vs -.

also my fan comes with one blue wire and one red wire. so i m wondering if you can tell me which wire goes to where? I m positive that I ll need to wire the red wire to 87, but what should I do with the blue remote wire?? i m confused as hell lol.

Just touch one wire to your pos, on your car battery, and the other to the neg. Note which way the fan blows. Mark it, so you know which way you want the fan to blow, when you mount it.

So is that your power and BIG 3 run Going in there, do you notice any difference to if u just had 2 direct lines to the batt?

I did not notice much, if any difference in the big three, on my vehicle. Other vehicles might make a difference, but there was little difference on mine. There were some very important things to note, on my install, though. As close as I can determine, in order of improvement.... The addition of SS sound dampening (and LLP); the bracing added to my doors; the sealing of the doors; And, experimenting with crossover points & slopes. The EQ made a big difference, of course. I think it always does, and DC Power alt...
The things that didn't seem to make a difference. Big 3; routing of the signal/power wires; subs facing up vs back.

 

[JarvisB 10+ year member]

so blue is the power wire and red is the ground?

are you positive lol?

 

[HCCA 10+ year member]

so blue is the power wire and red is the ground?
are you positive lol?

Sorry, Jarvis, I thought that you were referring to the 1/0 battery power wire. Kingdell91 had copied pics that I posted earlier, of my underhood battery/alt wiring. That's what I thought you were referring to. Sorry, you meant fan wire color...

Well, I would just say, touch the red to pos, and the blue to neg. If it runs, note the direction of flow, and mount them/wire them, so you get the desired result. Mine is wired that one pushes, and one pulls.

 

[JarvisB 10+ year member]

gotcha. thanks man.

what about inline fuse holder for the relay? what did you use?