2 alt, 3 batts, and still dropping like crazy...

[k_schutte 10+ year member]

how do you have the second alt hooked up? is it a one wire alt?

Basicaly... his is just like mine, we covered the alt. wiring in a different thread, it is good.

 

[k_schutte 10+ year member]

I don't think you can completely isolate the alternators. The only way i could think of, is having it externally regulated.

uhm... LOL

All you would have to do is diconnect the charge wire like I told him to do a few posts back... then he could check the one alt., after that he could reconnect that alt and disconnect the other and check it. pretty easy and would only take like 5-10 minutes to do. I am not just talking out of my *** here, I have had this problem a few times and each time it was due to a POS, DOA Iraggi...

 

[boostNbeer]

Which charge wire though? My factory alt works just fine, Id put a million on it. But is there a way to check if just the 2nd HO alt is bad?

I think I may swap amps this afternoon, this visonik has been jumping into protect. Ive got another amp thatll do 2k

 

[stevew007 10+ year member]

I don't think you can completely isolate the alternators. The only way i could think of, is having it externally regulated. The alternator has to know the battery voltage so it doesnt overcharge, my buddy had a second alternator and forgot to connect it together, and it charged at 17-18v until it was connected.

I meant from each other my bad

 

[k_schutte 10+ year member]

is there a way to check if just the 2nd HO alt is bad?

Yes and I have told you how like 4 times now LOL....

1. disconnect the wire from you factory battery to you second alt.

2. Start you vehicle

3. check the voltage of your rear batteries with you amps OFF

4. voltage should be 14v+ with the vehicle running and no current draw

 

[Skip01 5,000+ posts]

What do ur batts rest at caroff?

And at idle ur voltage is what?

 

[boostNbeer]

Yes and I have told you how like 4 times now LOL....
1. disconnect the wire from you factory battery to you second alt.

2. Start you vehicle

3. check the voltage of your rear batteries with you amps OFF

4. voltage should be 14v+ with the vehicle running and no current draw

OH IC IC, so the HO alt is only powerring the rear batts. ICIC Ill go do that now

What do ur batts rest at caroff?
And at idle ur voltage is what?

I just checked the rear batts and they rest @ 12.6-7

Idles @ 14.5-7

Since I was bored, I also just spent the last 20 min taking the visonik amp out and put in my Hifonics amp that does 2000rms @ 1ohm. So thats now my sub amp until this gets figured out.

 

I then went out and did a test bump, gain set for 2000rms, and at FULL TILT I was dropping to about 11.9-12.2 on full tilt on a CONSTANT low note

Ill go disconnect that wire now //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Thanks for your help so far guys, appreciate it

 

[k_schutte 10+ year member]

OH IC IC, so the HO alt is only powerring the rear batts. ICIC Ill go do that now



I just checked the rear batts and they rest @ 12.6-7

Idles @ 14.5-7

Since I was bored, I also just spent the last 20 min taking the visonik amp out and put in my Hifonics amp that does 2000rms @ 1ohm. So thats now my sub amp until this gets figured out.

 

I then went out and did a test bump, gain set for 2000rms, and at FULL TILT I was dropping to about 11.9-12.2 on full tilt on a CONSTANT low note

Ill go disconnect that wire now //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Thanks for your help so far guys, appreciate it

yeah... something is REALLY not right if you are dropping that low on 2Kw!! My bone stock electrical didn't even drop that bad when I had my VX2200D and P1800.4 hooked up...

 

[boostNbeer]

Well good news and bad news

Good news is I found the problem

Bad news is my HO alt isnt working....

Kshutte you seem to remember my thread yesterday for wiring the alt, I did the yellow to the output post, then found a wire that only had power when the car was running (ended up being fuel pump connection). So everything was good there, I just verified that the wire had power again when the car was running, so the alt has the power it needs to turn on, no problem there

When I disconnected the wire connecting the front batt to the HO alt, thus leaving the HO alt to power the rear batteries alone, the battery voltage stayed right @ 12.64, right where it was before I started the car

So my alt doesnt work, or isnt turning on.

God ****it

 

[Villeza1 10+ year member]

Davey2020 was right from the start of this thread. It couldn't have been anything else but the HO alternator.

 

[tommyk90 5,000+ posts]

You also need to need to run a piece of 1/0 from the alternator ground straight to the back batteries, along with the ground to the chassis.

You're trying to pull 300+ amps through shitty sheetmetal and factory welds.

 

[boostNbeer]

Davey2020 was right from the start of this thread. It couldn't have been anything else but the HO alternator.

I figured it could have been the way I had the wiring setup or something...

You also need to need to run a piece of 1/0 from the alternator ground straight to the back batteries, along with the ground to the chassis.
You're trying to pull 300+ amps through shitty sheetmetal and factory welds.

So your saying my rear ground for the rear batteries and amp is lacking as is?

If you felt it would be beneficial and worth the extra $50, I could always ground straight to the frame under the car in the rear, but that means putting a hole in my floor //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

I also cant fit any more runs through my firewall hole or down my door sills cleanly, so Id prefer not to have to run anymore front to back grounds

 

[tommyk90 5,000+ posts]

I figured it could have been the way I had the wiring setup or something...



So your saying my rear ground for the rear batteries and amp is lacking as is?

If you felt it would be beneficial and worth the extra $50, I could always ground straight to the frame under the car in the rear, but that means putting a hole in my floor //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

I also cant fit any more runs through my firewall hole or down my door sills cleanly, so Id prefer not to have to run anymore front to back grounds

What I would do is what somebody else suggested in this thread. Turn one of your positive runs into a negative one.

 

[etznova 10+ year member]

What I would do is what somebody else suggested in this thread. Turn one of your positive runs into a negative one.

yeah thats all you really need is a dedicated run of each a pos. and a neg. of course once you figure out the charging issure. you would benifit more than the way it is now with 2 pos. runs. thats how mine is a pos. and a neg. run from front to 2 batts in the rear and i'm running a Stetsom 4K2D

 

[boostNbeer]

But would it not be just as great to keep the 2 positive runs, and ground the rear batts straight to the frame of the car, in the rear, like 20" pieces??

Ground both batts individually.... or keep the wire that connects the 2 grounds of my rear batteries, and only have one 2/0 going to the frame